Friday 15th December
Early start again – it’s really my best time for writing I feel. More luke warm tap coffee … this Maxwell House stuff, made in Germany, is pretty disgusting and doesn’t dissolve properly. Sugar seems unnecessary, and Israel only has white sugar anyway.
Friday is the Moslem Sabbath so I should perhaps concentrate the day’s activities in the Jewish areas ? Down to Post Office, up & right, then left down through Jaffa Gate. Things are quiet this early. Compose what I hope will be nice photo of moon, cypress trees & Moslem symbol on top of tower in main Jewish square. Nowhere open for coffee.
At length walk up Via Dolorosa – shot of donkey ascending. Had seen a few sheep earlier being herded around these narrow alleys – imagine that in Soho say ! A variety of motorised transport is able to negotiate these twisting, stepped & paved little streets. The best is a mini tractor pulling a trailer, made by Holder I think.
Near Damascus Gate I finally get my cup of coffee Arabische – a tad expensive here but pleasant. Pass the lady street vendors with their vegetables & fruit –
Maybe there’s more action up in New Jerusalem. 9a.m. now. Pee stop in café beneath the Hapoalim Bank Tower but their water isn’t hot yet. Corner shop hasn’t got change for a 20 note for a 9.50 shekel pack of blue Dunhill Lights but seems to be dealing in $100 dollar bills for another customer ! I window shop awhile around this excellent shopping zone.
These few streets of 2 storey houses were built 140 years ago – the first Jewish settlement outside the Old City. Brave pioneers into Palestinian territory. They now house a nice mix of shops, restaurants, cafés etc. … a bit like London’s Covent Garden. Some wonderful goods meet my eyes.
Cigarette seller at last can give me change. Then I discover the Café de Colombia (best in the world I reckon) but it transpires they import the ever present Italian Sanfreddo variety. Nevertheless, 3 pretty waitresses (one particularly so !) please me & a large glass of frothy white coffee tastes good.
Shopping time. More Christmas presents secured at French run place who has spectacular selection of ‘ethnic imports’ – from Peru, Ecuador, Kenya & Indonesia to name but four. Buy 2 beautiful mobiles, painted wooden animals & a bird letter opener, all for 200 shekels on Diners Club card. One more painted wooden bird from another shop & wondrous Indian ? embroidered sash for 37sh.. It’s worth so many times that. Weeks of work must have gone into such fine needlework some years ago. A glossy modern fridge magnet from Alexander’s up Ben Yehuda then I’m seeking a canvas/cloth bag because all these things aren’t going to fit in the Argos rucksack !
Breakfast had been a wholemeal bagel – one bakery in town only doing them it seems. Down for a deli lunch in the Old City going via Christ Church for another pee & to see if Kevin had left me any note … non, not yet. Hot sun & fun in the central Jewish square as I snack on hummus & small white plaited loaf – v. good. Shop below looks brilliant but my eyes were bigger than my wallet as usual & I exit with a good bag (60 sh. on Diners) perfect for its intended role.
Everything closing now (1p.m.) for siesta. Refused entry to Dome of the Rock sector cos it’s Moslems only today. Explain to guard that he would be very welcome any day of the week in a Christian church. Allowed to take photo though.
Had earlier revisited Israel Discount Bank at op of BY Street where Mark, busy as a bee as ever, had efficiently helped me get 250 shekels more.
Masses of Moslem ladies leaving their holy worship as the Arab quarters come to life. Round the back streets, photo of fine gateway – later turned away from Dome zone despite it now being emptier.
Path leads me towards Lion’s Gate. 3 shekel entry into the Bethesda Pools & adjacent St. Ann’s Church & gardens. Here Jesus healed a very sick man, “take up your bed and walk”. Two crosses, well 8 actually, 4 on each stone pillar base mark the spot. 2 photos.
Out of Lion’s Gate – men at entrance of Moslem cemetery on right would like 5 shekels if I want to walk therein. Politely decline & reverse direction up the Stork Walk, left past the Rockefeller Museum then right back to hotel – small siesta is the intention. ½ hour’s rest, settle up my account in dollars & shekels, try to telephone to reconfirm my flight but no reply on the 3 Tel Aviv numbers at 5p.m.. 5.10p.m. into Garden Tomb. Peace. Chat to volunteer from Guildford. 2 photos. Leave quiet & happy.
Wander up to new town again but precious little happening – where does everyone go on a Friday night ? Yukky egg mayonnaise roll before back to St. George’s Bazaar (opposite Cathedral) to buy a 30 sh. lovely silver spoon then to the best deli in town. Tonight it’s a mango nectar, a schnitzel/potato/mayo pitta sandwich grilled on both sides, a bread triangle filled with spinach (?) & herbs dunked into a tub of cream cheese/cucumber/chilli & other vegetables. How’s that for 12 shekels ? Israel can be expensive but if you root around bargains abound !
Bed, believe it or not, at about 8.15p.m.