Tuesday 12th December
Up just before the muezzin calls, 5ish. More tap coffee, more cigarettes, more diary writing. Postcards to my father and to CF.
Stomach is loose this morning … surmise the cause was the falafel pocket the previous evening. Rectify (well, there’s an apt word !) matters by breakfasting on 2 types of wholemeal bread, bran flakes & oat muesli with yoghurt. Cannot finish the pot of awful coffee – last time their coffee had been excellent.
Settle my night’s bill. UN Major is collected by his batman. Much business goes on in this hotel. 7.40a.m. up to St. George’s Cathedral with the morning eucharist on my mind but discover it had been at 7a.m.. Wander around the gardens round the back, photo of tower. Into Dean’s garden – all nicely tended & plants clearly labelled some with their Biblical connotations. Saffron, bay, rosemary, narcissi, wormwood, roses, geraniums amongst many others.
On leaving pass special room, newer stained glass just visible, surrounded by throne-like chairs – maybe convocations of bishops chinwag here.
Wander some more – briefly into Old City through Damascus Gate but little action early in morning & retreat. Ask about buses to Ein Kerem where John the Baptist was born & bred – Arab bus station beneath Golgotha (a closed Muslim cemetery) doesn’t go there but one opposite Garden Tomb alleyway does … No. 27 is needed.
Pack in hotel – male cleaner lets me pinch 2 little blue soap boxes. Photo from annexe roof. Lug stuff short distance & check in at the Meridian Hotel – room seems fine if view is not too hot. Deposit clothes to be laundered at reception – separated into hot & cold washes.
Hotel lift is made by Nechushtan-Schindler. Schindler’s Lift …say that with a lisp and what do you get ? A fine book and a fair film.
Wander down different way towards Post Office & encounter wasteland opposite olive tree park where on previous visit I had experienced a sudden rush of wind. Saunter awhile seeking guidance then realise I am being watched by young man. Move across to olive park full of fallen Roman statue/column bits & sit on bench trying to appear normal. I have infringed on the ‘gay’ (good as you it stands for) encounter zone. Take one photo, and leave quietly.
P.O. comes up trumps – express PC to CF & normal airmail to Dad. Board my 43 which speeds past Yad Vashem & drops us all outside major hospital above Ein Kerem. There is no real path to E.K. but take photo of the village sitting at head of the valley. My destination today is Emmaus, or Ladrun as it’s now called – they say Barabbas or the other unfortunate lived there. Ladron is Spanish for robber, hence Ladrun I guess.
On my road map of Israel E.K. → Ladrun looked 15km as the crow flies. 11a.m. now, should be there by 2.30p.m. at the latest … how wrong can one be. Path through woods of pine – give directions back to Ein Kerem to lost lady motorist. 2 mountjack deer bounce away ahead of me. Going is a little tricky but find road heading my way & follow that for many miles. Join a railway track briefly then from the map it appears I must cross to next valley north to keep in right direction. Track divides & I head uphill (mountain goat style) through thorn, ouch, rock & thicket. Gain top & decent path leads along ridge but suddenly ends. Have to descend via pipeline, fall once … this needs care. After 1 hour I am back almost where I started from – my map unpreparedness, my ignorance, my stupidity.
Frustration follows, rain falls & I walk dejected for yet more miles. Hungry & thirsty but no respite here. Take off shoes & socks to cross slippery river bed, foaming with detergent. Each turn of the valley I hope the plain will be in sight. At last passing a quarry Bet Shemesh is seen on left – it’s nearly dark now. 6 hours walking & for what. Say shalom to man with rickety legs – my first words to a soul since just beneath the hospital. A lonely route. Decide enough is enough – back to Jerusalem ?
Bus stops – not going to J., going to Tel Aviv. O.K. Ladrun I say. 9 shekels 80 he decides, seems a bit steep, Ladrun on the map looks nearby. Bus dumps me in Ramlah … Ladrun he says, here. Consult map … only Lod seperates me from Tel Aviv airport ! I’m miles from Ladrun. It’s chucking it down now – I tried to get there & failed. Knackered I get the bus back to J. & bus 27 to St. George’s. 7.45p.m. now, bath & out for snack supper twice. Good lamb kebab, yoghurt drinks. Try to get orangina from Coca Cola vending machine – 3 shekels in, nothing out. Nothing to do with me says or gestures the patron. He bangs it, I kick it hard – still nada.
Bed very comfortable – superb sheets
I felt small today
Why try & do what Jesus did
Just be yourself, Jamie