Monday 11th December
Well, I thought it was Monday when I woke refreshed, but guess what, I had read my watch upside down & instead of it being 4.50a.m. it turned out soon after that it had in fact been 11.20p.m.. By the time I realised, I’d washed down a couple of coffees using the hot bath water & smoked a couple of white Silk Cut so it was too late to sleep again.
Might as well set off earlier than planned methinks. So, after some diary scribbling it was pack the rucksack, more carefully this time as a longer trudge is likely – quietly exit the hotel, leaving room key at night reception at 2a.m.. Some late stragglers are returning to rooms after discothèqueing; for some the day is ending for me it’s just beginning.
Walk some distance to the edge of town to the last neon streetlight where I park up. Thumb out a few times, car & timber transporters pass in pairs but the few vehicles are mostly the busy bee concrete mixers heading up to the cement works. Get bored after ¾ hour & decide to walk to army post near only Jordan crossing 2 km or so up the road.
Nice night, nice to be on the road again. Reach the post at 3.30a.m. or so. The two men there are kind – one divorced with 2 kids, one has seen 30 years service. Give me tea & biscuit & we chat about army matters. A few vans, a car & some lorries pass but thumb fails.
Then at 3.50a.m. Bingo – lady in Subaru stops for me. She’s going to Jerusalem too, hallelujah. Radio crackles, tense driving, cold air rushes through car. Her reason for trip is sad – her young & only sister, 22, has been knocked from motorbike & died in Jerusalem hospital.
We are speaking in French because she’s Tunisian, though 30 years in Eilat – at 3.30a.m. that morning she tells me there had been another quake shake, she on 2nd floor & frightened, 5 on the Richter scale. The second in a month in Eilat but perhaps another ‘small earthquake in X, not many dead news story’. First quake in November … one man died from a heart attack.
Negev desert goes on & on. Brief pee & fag stop for us at gas station, closed, & a thermos cup of lemon tea sans sugar.
Pass phosphate factory near Sodom, pass Ein Gedi, Masada, Qumran. Arab radio only – song lyrics remind me of my failures in life. Nod off from time to time. Road surface awful at south end of Dead Sea, which turquoise & tranquil.
This is the scene of 40 days 40 nights torment for Jesus. Bypass Jericho, up hill after hill towards our goal.
Sight Russian (?) tower atop of Jerusalem & heart begins to lift. Bedouins encamp in valleys either side of road. Past police checkpoint … it’s raining now. My friend, it’s tu not vous by now, must spend the next 8/10 days welcoming her sister’s friends & relatives at her place in Ramot, so despite my mild protestations she drops me at a Ramot bus stop. Give her a pack of Silk Cut – gentile she is.
Rush hour – bus 34 takes me for 3.30 shekels to near Egged bus station, the guide book says this is at top of Jaffa Road. Directions fail me (this is a regular occurrence in Israel) & I circle aimlessly seeking downtown. Arrive 25 mins later close to where I had started – Arab doughnut seller then directs me in totally opposite to true course the c*** !
Finally, English Jewess puts me on track & I descend Jaffa Road. Familiar landmarks begin to jog memory & after a couple more mistakes I arrive at my choice The American Colony Hotel & its annexe.
Shock horror … the £25 rooms have been recently spruced & now cost $120 but I need the sanctuary & Room 43 is prepared while I wander for an hour. Up to St. George’s Cathedral – rosemary outside, rub hands, chapel on right St. Michael’s where I pray, the organist practices, walk around the church & exit. It feels a little cold, not so happy as 4 years back.
Check out possible alternative room in attached pilgrim’s guesthouse but it’s stark & $40 +. YMCA is yet starker & dearer. Back to annexe for a siesta.
Wake & can you believe this, time goes topsy turvy again due to my upside down vision ! Assume it’s 6.30p.m. only to discover some time later it must have been just after noon ! Gordon Bennett. Bath & change, out of garden gate for sightseeing in local vicinity.
Ace deli sells me for 10 sh. 2 pittas, a plate of mixed hummus & aubergine + a tub of cream cheese & chilli. Wander into grounds of villa, discovering it is the HQ of Jerusalem’s Palestinian Supremo.
School is finishing, round & down to the Garden Tomb. Warm welcome, please come to the shop.
Gentle rain, pause. My spirits soar, that rushing internal Heaven sent exultation as I gaze upon this place where He Arose
A basket of rosemary sprigs, thanks, & enter the good shop, well run well stocked. Busy with custom getting busier as the tour people enter, keen to buy buy. Myself I buy a postcard for Consumer Forum folk and a map.
The party of tourists are I learn Singaporean – we brush shoulders as we move around the store. Good people. Heavier rain in the garden; have to close the door twice … perhaps they were born in barns !
Walk further around this ‘Christian’ sector of town, browse in stationery shops, gift shops, shoe shops. Sun is warm now – last port of call is the Meridian Hotel close to the Am Col.. Charming, sun facing, looks fine – agree to check in tomorrow, ‘anytime’ he says, $45 b&b. Had given 5 sh. to lady beggar, felt she needed it.
Snooze once more in comfort. Up 6ish, out again into old walled city through Damascus Gate –
Help small lad up steps with his trolley of bits. Thinking I am bound for Jaffa Gate area I walk purposely keeping right – blow me down with a feather, 10 minutes later I emerge outside the walls again, but it’s the Damascus Gate once more ! Is this place confusing or what !?
Stick to past knowledge & walk round corner to Jaffa Gate, left into St. James’ alley & down to Jewish quarter. Not a lot going on at this time of evening, window shop & eat falafel pitta & veg from Filipino shop. Head back to hotel, losing way briefly in the old city.
Encounter Australian couple looking for a supper – try a couple of options & then walk with them to Am. Col. Where they will snack. Pleasant, only been in Jerusalem for an hour – no doubt will see them again as they are staying in St. George’s.
Consult my maps & Lonely Planet guidebook in vague attempt to think where to go in following days. Drop 2 aspirin (limbs ache a touch !) & 1 Natrasleep & retire at 9.30p.m.. Read the lovely little Book of Kells got at Gatwick.