{"id":397,"date":"1995-12-07T10:15:46","date_gmt":"1995-12-07T10:15:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=397"},"modified":"2015-04-10T10:06:21","modified_gmt":"2015-04-10T10:06:21","slug":"israel-diary-december-1995","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=397","title":{"rendered":"Israel diary December 1995"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Thursday 7<\/b>th<\/b> December 1995 \u00a0& \u00a0Friday 8<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

The day started before 5a.m. but that\u2019s another story of packing\/sorting and so on. \u00a0Tikka was picked up by Carole, \u00a0Grace & Jessica at lunchtime and I escaped from Consumer Forum at 1.30\u2019ish only to return a minute later having forgotten my blue jacket … typical.<\/p>\n

He\u2019s off \u00a0– \u00a0lugging the Argos backpack & the Israeli cloth bag (courtesy of Arab run shop at the American Colony Hotel, \u00a0Jerusalem; bartered for \u00a0on last visit in January \u201992). \u00a0Both these are loaded to the gunnels with probably superfluous paraphernalia. \u00a0A quick wave to Julia Delavitch on passing St. Mary\u2019s and down to Baron\u2019s Court tube for the District service to Victoria, \u00a0\u00a31.70 single.<\/p>\n

Trouble with the signalling at Earl\u2019s Court means overhearing driver\/controller radio conversations \u00a0(I was in front coach) … \u201cyou can\u2019t go yet, \u00a0I\u2019ve got trains everywhere !\u201d etc.. \u00a0Amused by LT incompetence or was it just bad luck … anyway, \u00a0it took quite a while to reach Victoria.<\/p>\n

\u00a316.50 return bought for Gatwick Express which a good fast ride (30 mins +). \u00a0\u00a0Long \u00a0\u00a0haul over to the North Terminal on funkyish monorail number where I have plenty of time to kill before official check-in time of 3.55p.m.. \u00a0Buy a Toblerone (honey for the chapping lips) & a Cadbury\u2019s choccy bar of some description. \u00a0Very bare Terminal \u00a0– \u00a0have to smoke outside mostly. \u00a0Chat to Body Shop lady who has packed away the sun creams but gives me leaflet & advises me that things are cheaper \u2018airside\u2019.<\/p>\n

Check in ok \u00a0– \u00a0Argos has to go to \u2018special\u2019 rollers as he\u2019s deemed awkward \u00a0– \u00a0weighs 10.6 \u00a0or 10.9 kilos as weighing digitally seems difficult. \u00a0Through Customs (no bleeps) & marginal improvement in excitement quotient \u00a0– \u00a0use the 2 hours + to reasonable avail … cheese omelette & microwaved potato (erk) saved by Anchor butterlettes, \u00a0espresso coffee from Costas from a Roman from Pyramida ? \u00a0Variety of people \u00a0– \u00a0use a loo I\u2019m not supposed to as they were re-plumbing but there was no sign to say so.<\/p>\n

Fine metal \/water (turned off … drought ?!) sculpture centred round spiral up\/down walkway which kids & grown-ups would both like. Pop 57p into its childrens’ blind box.<\/p>\n

Shopping garnered one medium placcy bottle of cocoa lotion (after sun) & orangey flavour lip salve after much use of tester bottles in Body Shop. (\u00a34.50). Highlight was Past Times shop (recently accessed via mail order for marbles wooden box & Lindisfarne notepaper) where tempted by many things but limit myself to one ruler (wooden) 84p with Kings & Queens of England and a smashing little copy of the Book of Kells (\u00a33.50).<\/p>\n

Man next to me does a \u2018spillikins\u2019 with dodgy displays. \u00a0Charming salesgirl.<\/p>\n

200 white Silk Cut \u00a0– \u00a0no films, too dear. \u00a0Check out Clinique, made in U.S.A. also too dear \u00a0– \u00a0late purchase before the long travellate to gate 48 was an amazing Waterstone\u2019s 1996 Diary designed by Shiel & Cohen … v.pleased with that \u00a34.95 … hope to get several more as Christmas presents. \u00a0Ta to Terry Jones M.P. !<\/p>\n

Last fag for 5\u00bd hours & board 757 of Air 2000. \u00a0Sit next to 2 Josephs, \u00a0returning from stay in Hendon \u00a0– \u00a0one no English other President of Haifa food export co. … good company … teaches me todaraba = thank you, \u00a0bevakasha = please, \u00a0\u00e9f\u00f3 = where is, \u00a0anim mehapez = I am looking for, \u00a0m\u0103 schlomh\u0103 =how are you ?, \u00a0ok = ok, \u00a0yes = ken, \u00a0no = l\u014d, \u00a0maybe = \u014dnlai, \u00a0hot = \u03c7\u03b1\u03bc = ham with a gutteral h, \u00a0ani rayev = I\u2019m hungry, \u00a0and quite amusingly ani n\u014ftsori = I am a Christian … no, I am not sorry I\u2019m a Christian ! Joseph & I discuss Israeli politics & people.<\/p>\n

Air 2000 … lady pilot did fine, \u00a0food very average (only kosher … i.e. poor margarine, \u00a0so so chicken liver p\u00e2t\u00e9, \u00a0niceish apple pie thing). \u00a0Stewardesses had no idea that Jews like to congregate in groups of 8 to 10 to pray which they did mi-plane mid-flight \u00a0– \u00a0I thought that pretty ignorant considering \u00a090% \u00a0of my \u00a0fellow passengers were Jewish & the plane tos and fros to and from Tel Aviv daily.<\/p>\n

Landed 2a.m. local time \u00a0– \u00a0customs no sweat but baggage rondavel took its time due to lack of transporters. \u00a0Pleasing bronze of David Ben Gurion whose eyes appeared to follow me around the hall & gaze upon spot where some unfortunate terrorist was gunned to blazes (plaque marks the spot at carousel 4).<\/p>\n

2 cigarettes later \u00a0– \u00a0I had survived the dearth \u00a0– \u00a0expensive hot chocolate in the 24 hour caf\u00e9. \u00a0Maybe I\u2019ll take a bus into town & walk slow to new Egged bus station he thinks. \u00a0But no buses at this time of morn & taxis too costly. \u00a0Re-meet the Josephs outside & then decide to pack cloth bag at bottom of rucksack & start walking. \u00a0What\u2019s 15 kilometres on a cool night ?<\/p>\n

The moon is nearly full, \u00a0the going relatively easy alongside the speeding motorway and some somewhat putrid aquafers on my right hand side. \u00a0It takes ages to clear the airport & its runway \u00a0– \u00a0aren\u2019t they huge. \u00a0Begin to flag, \u00a0feet sore \u00a0– \u00a0me black boots need sheepskin liners. \u00a0At the Yehuda interchange, \u00a0about half way to Jaffa \/ Yafo where I had decided to head for, \u00a0having missed a visit 4 years back & it being close to the bus station, \u00a0I drop anchor & thumb comes out.<\/p>\n

Lorry passes but 2nd vehicle stops. \u00a0Wow ! \u00a0Nice young guy who\u2019s just been to Heathrow, \u00a0seen his girlfriend & returned after a night at Stansted Airport \u00a0– \u00a0on his way to work at 4.50a.m. for El Al Arkia security takes me out of his way close to the centre of Jaffa. \u00a0Thank you.<\/p>\n

Plod towards goal of St. Peter\u2019s church spotted earlier on map. \u00a0Am led up to museum, \u00a0outside which is splendid animal trough in old stone and on museum entrance wall a stone relief gives joy to the eye. \u00a0Through enchanting scrub garden, \u00a0on up to crown of hill where stands a memorial arch in codestone (? \/ cool to touch) symbolising Jacob\u2019s Dream.<\/p>\n

I am moved.<\/p>\n

This is a powerful site \u00a0– \u00a0a plaque tells me that during the British Palestine mandate they made soap here !<\/p>\n

Path leads down to the left and round to the right where an old fig tree I circle. \u00a0Who lies here ? \u00a0\u00a0Down a bit and left down a cobbled alley, \u00a0past a Daniel type den and round to oversee the old port where the reef divides. \u00a0Tel Aviv gleams north of me; \u00a0back up right past door of church and stand again by its Italianate tower of fine design but I don\u2019t desire to enter.<\/p>\n

I descend inspired but tired towards old Tel Aviv passing unsavoury early bakery & decent furniture shops \u00a0– \u00a0stop for honey bread at an Arab bakehouse \u00a0– \u00a0ace. \u00a0Directions needed for the station … Kaminsky ? \u00a0Reach destination at 6.10a.m.. \u00a0Extraordinary place, buses on 5 floors, \u00a0escalators out of order, \u00a0freshen up in loo & purchase one way ticket to Eilat for \u00a310. \u00a0Bus due to leave from last gate at 6.30a.m.. \u00a0Phew, \u00a0slump dog exhausted onto metal bench which gives way & bump my head. \u00a0Been up for 23 hours now & done enough for one day \u00a0– \u00a0conk out on 2nd row bus seat & am promptly woken by Israeli woman wanting her ticketed seat !<\/p>\n

Snatch the odd 20 minutes kip en route south, \u00a0stopping briefly at Beer\u2019Sheva (good egg & cucumber baguette & peach nectar) where man I recognise from last time still seeking foreign bank notes & coins for his collection. \u00a0Shall try to get his address because I have several that he would enjoy & that I don\u2019t honestly need.<\/p>\n

Last stop is deep in the Negev, \u00a0way past Dimona where a South African pair join the mostly male & female Israeli army khaki bus customers. \u00a0We talk & join in respectful criticism of Israeli attitudes to tourists \u00a0– \u00a0worse in Tel Aviv & amongst El Al staff apparently. \u00a0Bus driver did a professional job only spoiled by his missus constantly yakking away for the entire 5 hour ride & one must say by the indifference of the passengers. \u00a0Surprised by the growth of towns & horti\/agriculture since 1992 \u00a0– \u00a0what fertile earth is here.<\/p>\n

Noon Friday \u00a0– \u00a0back in Eilat, \u00a0busier than before, \u00a0more tourists, \u00a0more hotels but fun & warm. \u00a0After trying a few places, eventually settle at the inviting & reasonably priced Marina Club Hotel and am allocated Room 218, \u00a0overlooking palms & pool \u00a0– just right. \u00a0Time once more to shave\/wash\/brush up & unpack :- \u00a05 nights are anticipated …<\/p>\n

Grease up, \u00a0Ambre Solaire 10 remnants squeezed at Earlsfield (home) into Sainsbury\u2019s Factor 2 bottle. \u00a0Catch the last day\u2019s rays before heading into town for a mosey around old & new haunts. \u00a0Many new shops & less greenery than before. \u00a0Excellent doughnut & Danish pastry at \u2018The Family Bakery\u2019, \u00a0an even better guava milk-shake in a bottle from an English run deli up the hill, \u00a0cheap tape shop doesn\u2019t have Genesis \u2018We Can\u2019t Dance\u2019. \u00a0See new public swimming pools shortly to open which look good \u00a0– \u00a0I hope City authorities will retain as much green space as possible but concrete threatens this fine town. \u00a0Wonderful enclave close to Eilat Music Academy blooming with bougainvillea, \u00a0impatiens perennials and birds.<\/p>\n

Back down to the hotel zone \u00a0– \u00a0stop at Neptune Hotel to buy this notebook & then at cramped shop where I fall temporarily in love (again) with the salesgirl & buy a baguette, \u00a0some good aubergine\/onion tub p\u00e2t\u00e9 and a fair banana milk-shake in a carton. \u00a0Succumb to a \u00a32 box of Dead Sea Mineral Soap which was asking to be bought or was it my imagination ? \u00a0Vow to return to this cornucopia of interest … or is it just for the girl !<\/p>\n

Unwind at base camp \u00a0– \u00a0assemble my 2 prong plug & Enya thrills the air, \u00a0quelle chanteuse.<\/p>\n

Still hungry so dress up a bit and cross the bridge \u00a0– \u00a0Ben & Jerry\u2019s ice cream parlour looks under-stocked and is expensive. \u00a0At 7p.m. am shown to unreserved seat close to the door of the Tandoori on King\u2019s Wharf … the scene 3.9 years ago of the best meal I ate in Israel. \u00a0For once a restaurant has managed to retain its quality \u00a0– \u00a0saladdy starter with lemon, \u00a02 veg samosas, \u00a0a tray of condiments, \u00a0a butter n\u00e3n, \u00a0sag paner washed down with 2 sweet lassis … oh for sweet lassis ! \u00a0Practice few words of Hindi with staff \u00a0– \u00a0one sari lady who spoke excellent Hebrew, \u00a0Nepali type from Dehra Dun keen on cricket and man from Bombay who had attended sister Christian school to that run on Mount Abu. \u00a040 shekels (\u00a38) well spent.<\/p>\n

2 Natrasleeps (hop & valerian) just in case.<\/p>\n

Perchance to dream.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/strong>
\n
\nSaturday 9<\/b>th<\/b> December \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0The Sabbath<\/b><\/p>\n

Awake before the sparrows & time to ponder before breakfast. \u00a0Magnificent dawn over Jordan mountains east of Aqaba \u00a0– \u00a0play more Enya ( the previous evening I had cried listening to \u2018Hope has a Place\u2019 rack 2 Side 2 on The Memory of Trees, \u00a0her best album to date ? \u00a0The song evoked memories of Cothill prep school where aged 7 I had first read the account of Christ\u2019s crucifixion with a torch under the bedclothes and cried with pity for him). \u00a0Brief spurts of the Living Years, \u00a0Mike & the Mechanics and of course Horovitz playing Moz.<\/p>\n

Descend for food & coffee I hope … slight wait because doors don\u2019t open till 7.30a.m. not 7a.m. as advertised. \u00a0Fair nosh, \u00a0smoked swordfish & soused herring, \u00a0oat & raisin muesli & yoghurt, \u00a0roll & butter. \u00a0Coffee in thermos is weak, \u00a0but perked up with powder from jars. \u00a0Jewish party join & feast away.<\/p>\n

Still too cold to write, \u00a0but discover am able to use \u00a0restaurant\u2019s hot water to make my own coffee. \u00a0You see I had brought a jar of Sainsbury\u2019s freeze dried Gold with me luggage \u00a0– \u00a0thankfully.<\/p>\n

Before the day heats up I walk east where new development is apace \u00a0– \u00a0pass the new Dan, \u00a0through the Herod complex being started by the Canadians to a beautiful grass surrounded lagoon. \u00a0Few people around.<\/p>\n

Vanity time \u00a0– \u00a0careful with those sensitive areas of my pale skin. \u00a0Observe life round the pool till 2p.m. or so, \u00a0doing front & briefly back … it is the Sabbath after all. \u00a0When I think I am sufficiently toasted decide to wander uptown.<\/p>\n

Little did I realise this was to be an 8 km trek. \u00a0Little temptation as Sabbath shops generally not open till 6.30p.m. or later. \u00a0Head for the hospital with the intention of perhaps seeking out the psychy wards \u00a0– \u00a03 women at reception say no not here … none have even heard of schizophrenia or mania. \u00a0Well, \u00a0well … I know from having seen a documentary that there is a mental hospital in Jerusalem but maybe Eilat is strife free !<\/p>\n

Amazing variety of birds, \u00a0flowers and shrubs ease my path north-eastwards following contour of foothill. \u00a0Sensible mix of high-rise and low, \u00a0again not enough good green space for the kids. \u00a0Eventually arrive at corner of Eilat dominated by vast unsightly block where 6+ buses from Nazareth are parked. \u00a0What goes on there heaven only knows.<\/p>\n

Head up towards the hills on crunchy brown volcanic rock and scree to mini oilometers and sign saying this is start of Eilat \u2194 Ashkelon pipeline. \u00a0Consider awhile & wonder what effect this could have on Egypt\/Israel relations because surely a route to the Mediterranean avoiding the Suez Canal for that precious oil is going to cause political ructions ?<\/p>\n

Across scrubland & thorn to an undeveloped valley where stands atop a mound a wooden ark like construction with seating and one of those water fountains which can only dribble & squirt pathetically. \u00a0Close by is a beautifully made wood slatted wobbly bridge over a small dene\/valley. \u00a0Decide this should become the site of Eilat\u2019s first ? Christian church & dedicate the ground, \u00a0musing that it should be called St. Charlotte\u2019s church after my fille mignonne ! \u00a0One can dream can\u2019t one.<\/p>\n

Hairpin gently down to civilisation & discover my chosen consecration is at the end of Jerusalem Street. \u00a0How apt. \u00a0Yellow Submarine plays in \u00a0my head.<\/p>\n

Sun moving down now \u00a0– \u00a0wander downtown, \u00a0via bus station to enquire about perhaps going to Jordan\/Petra but buses only go to border.<\/p>\n

Brief look into deli near hotel but there is a different girl on duty … tant pis. \u00a0Nice hot bath to degrease & oh I nearly forgot, \u00a0by the airport terminal there had been a commotion of sparrows in a palm tree just as one nun (from St .Catherine\u2019s Monastery in Sinai ?) walked to check in . \u00a0I felt the flutter, \u00a0reminding me of 1980 at Heathrow when seeing my friend Gail Bishop off to Africa to roam. \u00a0Then a group of was it 5 nuns had seemed to flutter like doves around me as she walked towards the departure gate.<\/p>\n

Play more Enya in my room and the birds and trees outside my window seem to play in time. \u00a0Take 2 expresso coffees in the lobby (Israeli brand \u00a0– \u00a0Teka \u00a0– \u00a0good) whilst diary scribbling. \u00a0At 7.30p.m., \u00a0put 2 pairs of socks onto my mending blisters & walk townwards again. \u00a0Baguette (ham & cheese mit mustard & mayo from 2 surly Swedes) \u00a0– \u00a0spot of shopping this time, \u00a0secure Shepherd Moons (Enya), \u00a0We Can\u2019t Dance (at last !), \u00a0Revolver (later) \u00a0– \u00a0buy presents for the girls in the Shalom Center. \u00a0Bright lights beckon to another centre which disappoints.<\/p>\n

To bed 10.30\/11p.m.<\/p>\n


\nSunday 10<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Wake at 5a.m. sharp. \u00a0Dawn chorus. \u00a0Update diary. \u00a0Make coffee with warmish bath tap. \u00a07.30a.m., \u00a0time to break this fast. \u00a0Day beckons warm … you\u2019re on holiday, \u00a0Jamie … let\u2019s get this broken body browner !<\/p>\n

Similar fare to previous day but eat less \u00a0– \u00a0last pot of apricot jam. \u00a0Settle on patio to pen postcards to my girls … my brain\u2019s not functioning … before that I had gone for morning walk down to beach, \u00a0left towards Jordan over different bridge, \u00a0walked tother side of lagoon (musing that this should become Eilat\u2019s first golf course) \u00a0– \u00a0the soil here is a superfriable loam that clings to my trainers a bit. \u00a0Accompanied by a fine selection of wildlife such as seagulls, \u00a0heron, \u00a0sparrows, \u00a0wagtails dabbing the way, \u00a0indiscriminate beauties particularly human friendly dart around me, \u00a0cormorants from the lagoon, \u00a0black fishes wiggling up the salty creek, \u00a0a sandpiper \u00a0– \u00a0up to fish farm complex then left back to hotel spotting large limo with rich Arabs in the back.<\/p>\n

… one more Sainsbury\u2019s Gold Choice & restaurant \u2018pani gurm\u2019 (hot water) from my Gujerat waiter mate & on with the postcards … One to Pip & Charlotte, \u00a0one a thank you for last Sunday\u2019s lunch chez my doc & wife, \u00a02 side letter to G started inside cos heat beginning to overcome.<\/p>\n

Pause scripting for a lazy mo flattish on my back by the pool \u00a0– \u00a0less grockles as it\u2019s changeover day. \u00a0Ponder my vanity. \u00a0Who on earth is going to notice if my body is brown & anyway it\u2019s winter in the U.K. so is this exercise (or lack of it) pointless ? \u00a0Yes. \u00a0Take new Olympus OM1 (\u00a3169 extravagance last month in Acton) & head for the hills for a brisk hour plus, \u00a0this time on south side of town to suitable mound for 3x panorama picture of Eilat with Aqaba in the distance. \u00a0Head down left passing new road bridge over the wadi which I join taking me down to port area & back to base camp.<\/p>\n

1.40p.m. \u00a0– \u00a0finish letter & contemplate one to Enya. \u00a0Her music speaks to God \u00a0– \u00a0do I let her know ? \u00a0She must know already.<\/p>\n

Sun begins to hide obscured by clouds so I cruise again. \u00a0Banks will open at 4p.m. I\u2019m told, \u00a0shops at 5p.m.. \u00a0To town past one established older house in what remains of park area where guarded by ass, \u00a0pony, \u00a0geese, \u00a0cockerel and barky dog \u00a0– \u00a0place for the children\u2019s zoo \u00e0\u00a0la Battersea Park ?<\/p>\n

Efficient service upstairs at Bank Leumi gets me \u00a350 (250 shekels) on my Diners Club card but the people downstairs will have to Q for ages \u00a0– \u00a0they need more banks here to serve the swelling numbers.<\/p>\n

Candles & chewing gum (lemon) from Shekem Dept. Store \u00a0– \u00a0the lemon continues my experiment of bleaching my yellowy brown teeth. \u00a0I had earlier bought a lemon for 30 cents from my favourite shop lady, \u00a0chewed, \u00a0bitten & sucked en route uphill. \u00a0Will it work ? \u00a0Is the pain worth the gain ?<\/p>\n

Enquire about Eilat\u2019s export of mail at travel agency \u00a0– \u00a0he tells me it goes via Tel Aviv & can take a long time.. That needs attention doesn\u2019t it, \u00a0as at least twice a week planes go to Britain ?<\/p>\n

Bath at hotel \u00a0– \u00a0make decision to leave Eilat & pay bill. \u00a0To Petra ? \u00a0Rose Red City of Jordan ? \u00a0Peut-\u0207tre. \u00a0Conceive \u2018wicked\u2019 plan to to cheat Israeli postal service by stamping my mail with U.K. stamps & passing them to Brits flying home on the morrow but two local hotels seem bereft of Brits. \u00a0Plan B goes into action & I return to nice Essex man at agency who kindly takes them.<\/p>\n

Rap awhile re Petra (difficult to get to \u00a0– \u00a0too difficult as yet), \u00a0Assad of Syria who has just murdered 15,000 of his own people (?) & Saddam Hussein who has sneakily gained foothold in Lebanon (?). \u00a0This conversation at another travel agent, \u00a0lady ex-U.K. run.<\/p>\n

Return to my deli but my bird has flown … Still, \u00a0purchase one more tub of aubergine p\u00e3t\u00e9, \u00a02 pitta type roundels & a doughnut. Eat my supper on a grassy mound before the wind & palms \u00a0motion me towards the Royal Beach Hotel.<\/p>\n

This is some palace \u00a0– \u00a0the swankiest hotel I have ever set foot in … automatic doors everywhere, \u00a0even sensored taps in the loo. Marble halls, \u00a0vast carpets, \u00a0comfortable chairs, \u00a0elegance \u00a0– \u00a0surreal, \u00a0a roving clarinettist \u00a0– \u00a0beautiful pools, \u00a0warm. \u00a0Treat myself to a 6.50 (not overpriced) lemon press\u00e9e in one of the myriad of bars & lounges. \u00a0Drink outside in splendour, \u00a0noticing earthquake damage to 2 crucial lines \u00a0– \u00a0their pillars ain\u2019t strong or don\u2019t have the girth to cope with such weight of rooms above. Fearful for the safety of this delightful dream-like domain I express concern to the concierge who is diffident. \u00a0\u201cOnly superficial damage, \u00a0all will be completed next week \u201c. \u00a0I reply, \u201cYou\u2019ve only cemented over the cracks. \u00a0It\u2019s not enough, \u00a0you need wider (stretch out arms) pillars. \u00a0Another quake ?\u201d (frown). \u00a0Reception finally tells me it\u2019s $212 a night here but it\u2019s probably worth it.<\/p>\n

Emerge from trance & return to sleep 9.30\/10p.m.<\/p>\n


\nMonday 11<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Well, \u00a0I thought it was Monday when I woke refreshed, \u00a0but guess what, \u00a0I had read my watch upside down & instead of it being 4.50a.m. it turned out soon after that it had in fact been 11.20p.m.. \u00a0By the time I realised, \u00a0I\u2019d washed down a couple of coffees using the hot bath water & smoked a couple of white Silk Cut so it was too late to sleep again.<\/p>\n

Might as well set off earlier than planned methinks. \u00a0So, after some diary scribbling it was pack the rucksack, \u00a0more carefully this time as a longer trudge is likely \u00a0– \u00a0quietly exit the hotel, \u00a0leaving room key at night reception at 2a.m.. \u00a0Some late stragglers are returning to rooms after discoth\u00e8queing; \u00a0for some the day is ending for me it\u2019s just beginning.<\/p>\n

Walk some distance to the edge of town to the last neon streetlight where I park up. \u00a0Thumb out a few times, \u00a0car & timber transporters pass in pairs but the few vehicles are mostly the busy bee concrete mixers heading up to the cement works. \u00a0Get bored after \u00be hour & decide to walk to army post near only Jordan crossing 2 km or so up the road.<\/p>\n

Nice night, \u00a0nice to be on the road again. \u00a0Reach the post at 3.30a.m. or so. \u00a0The two men there are kind \u00a0– \u00a0one divorced with 2 kids, one has seen 30 years service. \u00a0Give me tea & biscuit & we chat about army matters. \u00a0A few vans, \u00a0a car & some lorries pass but thumb fails.<\/p>\n

Then at 3.50a.m. Bingo \u00a0– \u00a0lady in Subaru stops for me. \u00a0She\u2019s going to Jerusalem too, \u00a0hallelujah. \u00a0Radio crackles, \u00a0tense driving, cold air rushes through car. \u00a0Her reason for trip is sad \u00a0– \u00a0her young & only sister, 22, \u00a0has been knocked from motorbike & died in Jerusalem hospital.<\/p>\n

We are speaking in French because she\u2019s Tunisian, \u00a0though 30 years in Eilat \u00a0– \u00a0at 3.30a.m. that morning she tells me there had been another quake shake, \u00a0she on 2nd floor & frightened, \u00a05 on the Richter scale. \u00a0The second in a month in Eilat but perhaps another \u2018small earthquake in X, \u00a0not many dead news story’. \u00a0First quake in November … one man died from a heart attack.<\/p>\n

Negev desert goes on & on. \u00a0Brief pee & fag stop for us at gas station, \u00a0closed, \u00a0& a thermos cup of lemon tea sans sugar.<\/p>\n

Pass phosphate factory near Sodom, \u00a0pass Ein Gedi, \u00a0Masada, \u00a0Qumran. \u00a0Arab radio only \u00a0– song lyrics remind me of my failures in life. \u00a0Nod off from time to time. \u00a0Road surface awful at south end of Dead Sea, \u00a0which turquoise & tranquil.<\/p>\n

This is the scene of 40 days 40 nights torment for Jesus. \u00a0Bypass Jericho, \u00a0up hill after hill towards our goal.<\/p>\n

Sight Russian (?) tower atop of Jerusalem & heart begins to lift. \u00a0Bedouins encamp in valleys either side of road. Past police checkpoint … it\u2019s raining now. \u00a0My friend, \u00a0it\u2019s tu not vous by now, \u00a0must spend the next 8\/10 days welcoming her sister\u2019s friends & relatives at her place in Ramot, \u00a0so despite my mild protestations she drops me at a Ramot bus stop. \u00a0Give her a pack of Silk Cut \u00a0– \u00a0gentile she is.<\/p>\n

Rush hour \u00a0– \u00a0bus 34 takes me for 3.30 shekels to near Egged bus station, \u00a0the guide book says this is at top of Jaffa Road. \u00a0Directions fail me (this is a regular occurrence in Israel) & I circle aimlessly seeking downtown. \u00a0Arrive 25 mins later close to where I had started \u00a0– \u00a0Arab doughnut seller then directs me in totally opposite to true course the c*** !<\/p>\n

Finally, \u00a0English Jewess puts me on track & I descend Jaffa Road. \u00a0Familiar landmarks begin to jog memory & after a couple more mistakes I arrive at my choice The American Colony Hotel & its annexe.<\/p>\n

Shock horror … the \u00a325 rooms have been recently spruced & now cost $120 but I need the sanctuary & Room 43 is prepared while I wander for an hour. \u00a0Up to St. George\u2019s Cathedral \u00a0– \u00a0rosemary outside, \u00a0rub hands, \u00a0chapel on right St. Michael\u2019s where I pray, \u00a0the organist practices, \u00a0walk around the church & exit. \u00a0It feels a little cold, \u00a0not so happy as 4 years back.<\/p>\n

Check out possible alternative room in attached pilgrim\u2019s guesthouse but it\u2019s stark & $40 +. \u00a0YMCA is yet starker & dearer. Back to annexe for a siesta.<\/p>\n

Wake & can you believe this, \u00a0time goes topsy turvy again due to my upside down vision ! \u00a0Assume it\u2019s 6.30p.m. only to discover some time later it must have been just after noon ! \u00a0Gordon Bennett. \u00a0Bath & change, \u00a0out of garden gate for sightseeing in local vicinity.<\/p>\n

Ace deli sells me for 10 sh. 2 pittas, \u00a0a plate of mixed hummus & aubergine + a tub of cream cheese & chilli. \u00a0Wander into grounds of villa, \u00a0discovering it is the HQ of Jerusalem\u2019s Palestinian Supremo.<\/p>\n

School is finishing, \u00a0round & down to the Garden Tomb. \u00a0Warm welcome, \u00a0please come to the shop.<\/p>\n

Gentle rain, \u00a0pause. \u00a0My spirits soar, \u00a0that rushing internal Heaven sent exultation as I gaze upon this place where He Arose<\/p>\n

A basket of rosemary sprigs, \u00a0thanks, \u00a0& enter the good shop, \u00a0well run well stocked. \u00a0Busy with custom getting busier as the tour people enter, \u00a0keen to buy buy. \u00a0Myself I buy a postcard for Consumer Forum folk and a map.<\/p>\n

The party of tourists are I learn Singaporean \u00a0– \u00a0we brush shoulders as we move around the store. \u00a0Good people. \u00a0Heavier rain in the garden; \u00a0have to close the door twice … perhaps they were born in barns !<\/p>\n

Walk further around this \u2018Christian\u2019 sector of town, \u00a0browse in stationery shops, \u00a0gift shops, \u00a0shoe shops. \u00a0Sun is warm now \u00a0– \u00a0last port of call is the Meridian Hotel close to the Am Col.. \u00a0Charming, \u00a0sun facing, \u00a0looks fine \u00a0\u00a0– \u00a0\u00a0agree to check in tomorrow, \u2018anytime\u2019 he says, \u00a0$45 b&b. \u00a0Had given 5 sh. to lady beggar, \u00a0felt she needed it.<\/p>\n

Snooze once more in comfort. \u00a0Up 6ish, \u00a0out again into old walled city through Damascus Gate \u00a0–<\/p>\n

Help small lad up steps with his trolley of bits. \u00a0Thinking I am bound for Jaffa Gate area I walk purposely keeping right \u00a0– \u00a0blow me down with a feather, \u00a010 minutes later I emerge outside the walls again, \u00a0but it\u2019s the Damascus Gate once more ! \u00a0Is this place confusing or what !?<\/p>\n

Stick to past knowledge & walk round corner to Jaffa Gate, \u00a0left into St. James\u2019 alley & down to Jewish quarter. \u00a0Not a lot going on at this time of evening, \u00a0window shop & eat falafel pitta & veg from Filipino shop. \u00a0Head back to hotel, \u00a0losing way briefly in the old city.<\/p>\n

Encounter Australian couple looking for a supper \u00a0– \u00a0try a couple of options & then walk with them to Am. Col. Where they will snack. \u00a0Pleasant, \u00a0only been in Jerusalem for an hour \u00a0– \u00a0no doubt will see them again as they are staying in St. George\u2019s.<\/p>\n

Consult my maps & Lonely Planet guidebook in vague attempt to think where to go in following days. \u00a0Drop 2 aspirin (limbs ache a touch !) & 1 Natrasleep & retire at 9.30p.m.. Read the lovely little Book of Kells got at Gatwick.<\/p>\n


\nTuesday 12<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Up just before the muezzin calls, \u00a05ish. \u00a0More tap coffee, \u00a0more cigarettes, \u00a0more diary writing. \u00a0Postcards to my father and to CF.<\/p>\n

Stomach is loose this morning … surmise the cause was the falafel pocket the previous evening. \u00a0Rectify (well, \u00a0there\u2019s an apt word !) matters by breakfasting on \u00a02 types of wholemeal bread, \u00a0bran flakes & oat muesli with yoghurt. \u00a0Cannot finish the pot of awful coffee \u00a0– \u00a0last time their coffee had been excellent.<\/p>\n

Settle my night\u2019s bill. \u00a0UN Major is collected by his batman. \u00a0Much business goes on in this hotel. \u00a07.40a.m. up to St. George\u2019s Cathedral with the morning eucharist on my mind but discover it had been at 7a.m.. \u00a0Wander around the gardens round the back, \u00a0photo of tower. \u00a0Into Dean\u2019s garden \u00a0– \u00a0all nicely tended & plants clearly labelled some with their Biblical connotations. \u00a0Saffron, \u00a0bay, \u00a0rosemary, \u00a0narcissi, \u00a0wormwood, \u00a0roses, \u00a0geraniums amongst many others.<\/p>\n

On leaving pass special room, \u00a0newer stained glass just visible, \u00a0surrounded by throne-like chairs \u00a0– \u00a0maybe convocations of bishops chinwag here.<\/p>\n

Wander some more \u00a0– \u00a0briefly into Old City through Damascus Gate but little action early in morning & retreat. \u00a0Ask about buses to Ein Kerem where John the Baptist was born & bred \u00a0– \u00a0Arab bus station beneath Golgotha (a closed Muslim cemetery) doesn\u2019t go there but one opposite Garden Tomb alleyway does … No. 27 is needed.<\/p>\n

Pack in hotel \u00a0– \u00a0male cleaner lets me pinch 2 little blue soap boxes. Photo from annexe roof. \u00a0Lug stuff short distance & check in at the Meridian Hotel \u00a0– \u00a0room seems fine if view is not too hot. \u00a0Deposit clothes to be laundered at reception \u00a0– \u00a0separated into hot & cold washes.<\/p>\n

Hotel lift is made by Nechushtan-Schindler. \u00a0Schindler\u2019s Lift …say that with a lisp and what do you get ? \u00a0A fine book and a fair film.<\/p>\n

Wander down different way towards Post Office & encounter wasteland opposite olive tree park where on previous visit I had experienced a sudden rush of wind. \u00a0Saunter awhile seeking guidance then realise I am being watched by young man. \u00a0Move across to olive park full of fallen Roman statue\/column bits & sit on bench trying to appear normal. \u00a0I have infringed on the \u2018gay\u2019 (good as you it stands for) encounter zone. \u00a0Take one photo, \u00a0and leave quietly.<\/p>\n

P.O. comes up trumps \u00a0– \u00a0express PC to CF & normal airmail to Dad. \u00a0Board my 43 which speeds past Yad Vashem & drops us all outside major hospital above Ein Kerem. \u00a0There is no real path to E.K. but take photo of the village sitting at head of the valley. \u00a0My destination today is Emmaus, \u00a0or Ladrun as it\u2019s now called \u00a0– \u00a0they say Barabbas or the other unfortunate lived there. \u00a0Ladron is Spanish for robber, \u00a0hence Ladrun I guess.<\/p>\n

On my road map of Israel E.K. \u2192 Ladrun looked 15km as the crow flies. \u00a011a.m. now, \u00a0should be there by 2.30p.m. at the latest … how wrong can one be. \u00a0Path through woods of pine \u00a0– \u00a0give directions back to Ein Kerem to lost lady motorist. \u00a02 mountjack deer bounce away ahead of me. \u00a0Going is a little tricky but find road heading my way & follow that for many miles. \u00a0Join a railway track briefly then from the map it appears I must cross to next valley north to keep in right direction. \u00a0Track divides & I head \u00a0uphill (mountain goat style) through thorn, \u00a0ouch, \u00a0rock & thicket. \u00a0Gain top & decent path leads along ridge but suddenly ends. \u00a0Have to descend via pipeline, \u00a0fall once … this needs care. \u00a0After 1 hour I am back almost where I started from \u00a0– \u00a0my map unpreparedness, \u00a0my ignorance, my stupidity.<\/p>\n

Frustration follows, \u00a0rain falls & I walk dejected for yet more miles. \u00a0Hungry & thirsty but no respite here. \u00a0Take off shoes & socks to cross slippery river bed, \u00a0foaming with detergent. \u00a0Each turn of the valley I hope the plain will be in sight. \u00a0At last passing a quarry Bet Shemesh is seen on left \u00a0– \u00a0it\u2019s nearly dark now. \u00a06 hours walking & for what. \u00a0Say shalom to man with rickety legs \u00a0– \u00a0my first words to a soul since just beneath the hospital. \u00a0A lonely route. \u00a0Decide enough is enough \u00a0– \u00a0back to Jerusalem ?<\/p>\n

Bus stops \u00a0– \u00a0not going to J., going to Tel Aviv. \u00a0O.K. \u00a0Ladrun I say. \u00a09 shekels 80 he decides, \u00a0seems a bit steep, \u00a0Ladrun on the map looks nearby. \u00a0Bus dumps me in Ramlah … Ladrun he says, \u00a0here. \u00a0Consult map … only Lod seperates me from Tel Aviv airport ! \u00a0I\u2019m miles from Ladrun. \u00a0It\u2019s chucking it down now \u00a0– \u00a0I tried to get there & failed. \u00a0Knackered I get the bus back to J. & bus 27 to St. George\u2019s. \u00a07.45p.m. now, \u00a0bath & out for snack supper twice. \u00a0Good lamb kebab, \u00a0yoghurt drinks. \u00a0Try to get orangina from Coca Cola vending machine \u00a0– \u00a03 shekels in, \u00a0nothing out. \u00a0Nothing to do with me says or gestures the patron. \u00a0He bangs it, \u00a0I kick it hard \u00a0– \u00a0still nada.<\/p>\n

Bed very comfortable \u00a0– \u00a0superb sheets<\/p>\n

I felt small today<\/p>\n

Why try & do what Jesus did<\/p>\n

Just be yourself, \u00a0Jamie<\/p>\n


\nWednesday 13<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Muezzin wakes me 5.05a.m.<\/p>\n

Church bells 6.45a.m. \u00a0– \u00a0Eucharist ? \u00a03 celebrants + one v.late arrival, \u00a01 vicar. \u00a0Suffer coughing attack half way through gloomy dirge-like service but return improved … decide against bread & wine but take the blessing. \u00a0Disinterested vicar, \u00a0little joy.<\/p>\n

Breakfast … slightly better coffee. \u00a0Nice warm milk, \u00a0bran flakes & corn, \u00a0Lebanese yoghurt, \u00a0scrambled egg on white toast. Discover goodbye in Arabic = marcellam. \u00a0Bound to forget this !<\/p>\n

Pick up free booklet @ reception The Holy Places Today by M.Basilea Schlink \u00a0– \u00a0looks good. \u00a0Bookmark inside reads :<\/p>\n

Believe that<\/p>\n

God only humbles<\/p>\n

and tests you in \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0A message<\/p>\n

suffering so as \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0for my<\/p>\n

to show \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0yesterdays<\/p>\n

you \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0all the \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0todays and<\/p>\n

more good- \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0tomorrows<\/p>\n

ness in the<\/p>\n

This assurance \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0end<\/p>\n

will enable you<\/p>\n

to overcome<\/p>\n

in suffering<\/p>\n

MB<\/p>\n

First port of call is good little stationers nearby for 3 foot ruler. \u00a0Select the straightest from choice of 5. \u00a0Damage … 9 shekels (\u00a31.80, v. reasonable). \u00a0Next to Am. Col. Shop for camera strap, \u00a0explain didn\u2019t get back till late yesterday, \u00a0boss can\u2019t find where his son may have put the embroidered ropes \u00a0– \u00a0promise to return p.m..<\/p>\n

Drop ruler back in room & off for intended day of Christmas shopping … after all I clocked up a lot of mileage the previous day & calves, \u00a0feet & knees are in need of soothing. \u00a0Replaster water blister on toe.<\/p>\n

Coffee, \u00a0coffee brain says (Sainsbury\u2019s now all used) \u00a0– \u00a0excellent Turkish + cardamom in glass after it settles near Damascus Gate. Drizzle continues. \u00a0Up towards Jaffa Gate where at summit veg vendor has dropped most of her turnips (?) over the road. \u00a0Cars & lorries squash them mercilessly. \u00a0Pick up a couple for her, \u00a0rain should clean them. \u00a0Her son stands by, \u00a0twiddling his thumbs.<\/p>\n

9a.m. now \u00a0– \u00a0Tourist Info Centre just inside Old City \u00a0– \u00a0woman on phone, \u00a0pick up map of OC courtesy of H.Stern the jewellers. \u00a0Big arrow You are here \u00a0– \u00a0good that is. \u00a0Browse in Christ Church shop opposite David\u2019s Tower where Allenby quelled the rival passions. City starting to awaken. \u00a0Rothschild Craft Centre not open till 9.30a.m. so descend to Jewish quarter.<\/p>\n

Examine T-shirt collection & other wares. \u00a0Buy chi (\u03c7) plate and end of line white (well off-white cos it\u2019s been on display for ages) dove number XXL. \u00a0Good lady owner takes my Nat West cheque for \u00a311. \u00a0Her husband directs me to best coffee shop in area, The Quarter Caf\u00e9 \u00a0– \u00a0strong black with milk. \u00a0Enya on the musak system ! \u00a0Take 2 x panorama of good view of Golden Temple & Mount of Olives.<\/p>\n

Around & about a bit, \u00a0back & down to Wailing Wall. \u00a0Refused entry at bottom left corner & given short shrift by Jewish orthodoxy. \u00a0Tell geezer he\u2019s very welcome in a Christian place, \u00a0more jabbering at me so \u201cup yours\u201d, I rudely say \u00a0– \u00a0apologies sir. Find correct tunnel & am straight away in Arab section of town. \u00a02 Colombians are struggling with bartering system \u00a0– \u00a0help out as best I can in Castellano (pure Spanish). \u00a0Owner pleased, \u00a0or is he just after my business ? \u00a0Coffee offered … sucker me parts with 30 sh. for v.nice box … business terrible he & his opposite shopkeeper tell me … not surprising if you hassle Europeans, \u00a0they don\u2019t like it I try to explain. \u00a0Sucker punched again into buying 3 hand painted Armenian plates (3 colours variations on the Tabgha mosaic), \u00a0but get baksheesh \u00a0square tile. \u00a0Another 30sh. spent I think, \u00a0it\u2019s hard to recall some of these protracted negotiations. \u00a0Part on good terms. \u00a0Sales patter continues as one leaves.<\/p>\n

Left into Via Dolorosa by Simon of Cyrene corner. \u00a0Head down & slow walk seems to avoid much of the Arab sales pitch. \u00a0On left is wonderful little chapel of the Little Sisters of Jesus. \u00a0Quiet prayer & then photo. \u00a0Discover branch exists in U.K., \u00a0one in W.10 one in Hackney take down addresses & phone numbers. \u00a0I like the name and I liked the place, \u00a0although felt a touch queezy about the lower chapel which merited a quick in & out. \u00a0Pope in 1964 was here, \u00a0says plaque. \u00a0Nice, \u00a0very nice French prayer sheet also taken.<\/p>\n

Shop for the blind has ace brushes but too cumbersome for air travel so buy 36 wooden clothes pegs \u00a0– \u00a0find out later, \u00a0made in China, but assume packaging done by the blind. \u00a0Continue up Dolorosa, \u00a0eyeing goodies for perhaps later purchase. \u00a0Reach Jaffa square again. Down St. James\u2019 once more \u00a0– \u00a0pee stop in Rothschild Centre, \u00a0exhibiting fine art & jewellery etc.. \u00a0Sigh their book & comment \u2018beautiful handiwork\u2019.<\/p>\n

5 shekels for a suitable camera strap without much hassle then I\u2019m out of local currency so it\u2019s Bank Leumi time. \u00a0Problems with their telephone so I try other bank (Mizrahi) but they close for lunch so it\u2019s back repentantly to Leumi where after longish wait (Bedouin has even longer wait than me … maybe they are not quite sure who he is but he looks very honest to me & a fine fellow) my 250 shekels (\u00a350) arrives.<\/p>\n

Fine soft red cotton shirt \u00a0– \u00a030sh. \u2018no messing around here\u2019, \u00a0unable therefore to bargain cos it was a bit dirty !<\/p>\n

Family concern down Dolorosa again, \u00a0good man has an \u2018everything for 3 shekel section\u2019 & interesting bric-a-brac. \u00a0Come out with beautiful belt made by his niece\/cousin ?, \u00a0a battered but bonito cigarette tray holder thingy & two spare pawns, \u00a0both intended for Consumer Forum. \u00a0The chess set there is always missing pawns for some reason !<\/p>\n

Map of Jerusalem bought nearby plus loaves & fishes XL T-shirt blue (25sh.) then towards Damascus Gate (bag is getting heavier & heavier) \u00a0– \u00a02 tubs of cinnamon, \u00a01 of ground cardamom (9sh.). \u00a0Barrel box (70sh.) \u00a0including free tea with sage (pas mal) \u00a0– Islam\/Jew\/Christian discussion \u00a0+ \u00a0chat to Head of Commerce (VIP) in Arab areas. \u00a0Cat Stevens apparently now numero uno in esteem … mention incident involving \u00a0Georgie Chichester (now Leyland) when he sad & asked her to enter his Rolls Royce late one night … suspect this tale put the cat (!) amongst the pigeons as good Muslims are not supposed to this style of thing. \u00a0However, \u00a0nobody\u2019s perfect, \u00a0not by a long chalk. \u00a0Shop owner is personal friend of Yussuf\/Cat. \u00a0Please to learn good Islam dead ringer for good Christianity \u00a0– \u00a0interpretations of Bible & Koran etc. often muddy the still waters that He provides.<\/p>\n

Last purchases in the Old City were a pack of 4 knickers for me (10sh.), \u00a02 mini tiger balms & 2 brilliant hessian Christmas stockings for the 2 girls, \u00a0& 3 lemons outside for 1 sh., \u00a0plus a 1 sh. roll. \u00a0+ 1 jar coffee (11 shekels) + 2 packs of Dunhill \u00a0= 18 shekels.<\/p>\n

Oh, \u00a0the hazards of diary writing the following morn. \u00a0I omitted 2 events of importance.<\/p>\n

First I encountered on the Via Dolorosa, \u00a0clattering down with his metal walking frame, \u00a0a middle-aged man to whom I gave a 10 shekel note, \u00a0in to his hat. \u00a0Turns out he\u2019s, \u00a05 years ago, \u00a0been touched by a 30,000 volt electricity cable which shored off his scalp, \u00a0fried his skin, \u00a0chopped off half one foot & twisted his body. \u00a0Coping OK but I tell him, \u00a0as he can\u2019t afford the Israeli medical help available, \u00a0to go & ask at Rothschild\u2019s Craft Centre for the dosh to get him to U>K> to have a metal plate fixed above his exposed brain. \u00a0Tell him that in U.K., \u00a0psychiatrists zap people too ! \u00a0Too bloody much if you ask me ! \u00a0He\u2019s incredibly lucky to be alive & I wish him everything he needs.<\/p>\n

Event 2 was pleasant sojourn, \u00a0coffee. \u00a0photo in church at Christ Church above Immanuel opposite David\u2019s Tower & already mentioned. Here, \u00a0on the exhibits of earlier this century & before displayed, \u00a0on portrait of Michael Solomon Alexander there is a sticker saying who this is which looks to me done in my mother\u2019s handwriting. \u00a0Kevin is the man to ask I\u2019m told by Argentinian lady but Kevin don\u2019t know (he\u2019s Australian) but will try to find out for me & leave message at reception. \u00a0Ta, \u00a0Kev. \u00a0Mum was here during the war you see.<\/p>\n

So back to Christmas shopping. \u00a0After 4p.m. I head, after unloading first batch, \u00a0through Hassidic section of the new town to Jaffa Street chewing on one lemon ! Am looking for cufflinks, \u00a0selfishly for me, \u00a0which proves a complete no-no. \u00a0Serves me right.<\/p>\n

No Mozart tapes anywhere, \u00a0fair coffee & heavyweight bagel on George V Street. \u00a0Batiques, \u00a0silk cushion covers look not bad \u00a0– \u00a0may return. \u00a0A few stocking fillas amuse so I get them … 13.50 shekels. \u00a0Fine store at bottom of Ben Yehuda Street yields loads of Christmas presents for family members & friends.<\/p>\n

Goodness gracious it\u2019s 8.20p.m. now \u00a0– \u00a0head hotelwards, \u00a0naturally get lost again trying to be \u00a0too clever … these streets honestly, where\u2019s my sense of direction gone. \u00a0Supper en route, \u00a0caramel milk (bueno), \u00a0some pastries in Jewish zone & a slice of pizza.<\/p>\n

Bed, exhausted, \u00a0after bath 9.45p.m.<\/p>\n

A good day<\/p>\n

Merci Dieu<\/p>\n

Tu es vachement chouette \u00e0 moi<\/p>\n

Merci encore<\/p>\n

Je t\u2019adore.<\/p>\n


\nThursday 14<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Up early to scribe away, \u00a0tap water is cold so coffee pretty disgusting.<\/p>\n

What to do today la di da ?! \u00a0All my washing was returned on my return to hotel the previous evening \u00a0– \u00a0beautifully done, \u00a0all for 56sh. which I still owe \u00a0Out at 5.45a.m. \u00a0– \u00a0clear skies. \u00a0Down to Arab Bus Station, \u00a0not a lot moving at this time of day. \u00a0No coffee shops open. \u00a0Board first bus to Bethlehem, \u00a0the 6.05 a.m., \u00a0which arrives at 6.30a.m. \u00a0Am the only passenger by the time we reach B. \u00a0Up hill to central square. \u00a0Israeli army still in their pen but less frantic than 4 years ago. \u00a0Ask one of them where I might get a coffee ? \u00a0He shrugs, \u00a0bemused & gestures me to north end of square. \u00a0Aha, \u00a0settle in caf\u00e9 to enjoy a coffee\/cardamom & secure a can of \u2018Pip\u2019s Cola\u2019 for her stocking.<\/p>\n

To the Church of the Nativity at bottom end of square \u00a0– \u00a0am first (?) grockle to enter through low small door that day. \u00a0Drawn to far right corner where flowers, \u00a0pictures & a crib lie above portal leading down to grotto from where emanates chanting of robed man. Fire extinguisher in left corner.<\/p>\n

Ground floor level to immediate left of Mother & Child icon\/painting and right hand column of grotto\u2019s stone door frame steal my attention. \u00a02 or was it 3 photos in the candle light before one of my throat spasms hits me again \u00a0– \u00a0coughing sporadically I seek the outside air in adjacent courtyard cloister into whose flower beds of impatiens (?) I retch and spit thrice.<\/p>\n

Some Italian nuns, \u00a0\u201cbuon giorno\u201d one says, \u00a0are scurrying to their service at St. Katherine\u2019s which lies alongside the Church of the Nativity. \u00a0One more photo as my composure returns. \u00a0Bright sun greets me on return to main square.<\/p>\n

Short morning stroll around the back streets following children on their way to school & then back to bus stop. \u00a0Return journey to Jerusalem marred by over-efficious young soldier who checks virtually every car, \u00a0demands I.D. papers from nearly all our bus people. Somewhat rudely I thrust my maroon passport in his direction, \u00a0\u201cBritish\u201d, I say, \u00a0muttering about how unnecessary all this over zealous check-point Charlie stuff is.<\/p>\n

Road to J. Jamming up so driver takes good short cut which lands us at base of Zion Hill..<\/p>\n

Get out here & discover by Alexander Caf\u00e9 a mini museum explaining the 3 man operated (by hand) cable car system which crosses the valley to the Old City. \u00a0Devised in 1948 or earlier by brilliant engineer whose name escapes me \u00a0– \u00a0URIEL that was it !, \u00a0manned by the British during the mandate to restock the western Jewish sections of town. \u00a0Kept a total secret, \u00a0the cable wire being lowered to valley floor during the day, \u00a0and not revealed until 1972. \u00a0Mossad \u00a0must be clever.<\/p>\n

Walk up Zion through lovely gardens past King David\u2019s Hotel being done up, \u00a0past the dreadful design of the imposing YWCA and head for breakfast. \u00a09.25a.m. am past official time but kindly given all I need. \u00a0One hour\u2019s kip. \u00a010.40a.m. catch the 27 to Jaffa Road & descend to look for bank to get dollars cash & travel agent to reconfirm my flight home.<\/p>\n

Score on the former at main Israel Discount Bank but it turns out that agent I seek is at 108 Ben Yehuda in Tel Aviv not Jerusalem \u00a0\/ Good bloke at IDB branch had helped me here. \u00a0Turns out there is a BY Street in every town. \u00a0BY invented Hebrew language in 1920\u2019s.<\/p>\n

Walk all the way up to Central Bus Station, \u00a0central is hardly the word ! \u00a0Stock up with caramel\/mocca milk, \u00a0an egg salad baguette, Israeli strawberry chocolate bar & a \u00bd litre mineral water, \u00a0Neviot. \u00a0Am now ready, \u00a0I hope, \u00a0for an afternoon\u2019s stroll from Bet Shemesh to Ladrun.<\/p>\n

Get off bus one stop too soon which adds a kilometre or so. \u00a0Down to where the last trek had ended then across country Ladrun bound.<\/p>\n

Suffice to say that some 5 hours later, \u00a0through thicket, \u00a0groves of olive, \u00a0peach & orange, \u00a0along paths tracks and road, \u00a0through villages new & old, \u00a0with sparrows, \u00a0falcons, \u00a0wagtails, \u00a0pipers and a kingfisher eyeing right then left then right again, threatened by a Rottweiler (wooden stick came in handy but wasn\u2019t needed), \u00a0I ultimately reached my destination. \u00a0Yet again I had taken the great circle route. \u00a0Oh for a 1\u201d Ordnance Survey map !<\/p>\n

Under the Tel Aviv \u2194 Jerusalem motorway to Mehlaf Latrun & the ruined Church of the Beatitudes.<\/p>\n

Overgrown park\/garden on north side holds more magic. \u00a02 photos in the virtual darkness. \u00a0Time to return. \u00a0Thumb out for 35 minute in cold weather. \u00a0Hebrew only man in smart car drops me at Nevaresset Junction. \u00a0Toda (thanks). \u00a0Espy \u2018one of my favourite things\u2019 (Julie Andrews) \u00a0– \u00a0a shopping centre ! \u00a0Quick wash & brush up of self & mud clodded shoes after an expensive expresso. \u00a0Prices here are quite a bit higher than in Jerusalem but enjoy my sojourn in more stylish surroundings. \u00a0Visit to large Co-op yields mini sacks of chocolate shekels, \u00a0a cheap pan scrubber & yetanother doughnut !<\/p>\n

Bus back to J. Also goes via the great circle route through smart suburbs. \u00a0Then the old 27 back to base camp.<\/p>\n

13 shekels for my supper of 2 white rolls (not enough wholemeal bred in the diet here), \u00a0one tub of aubergine p\u00e2t\u00e9, \u00a0one tub of red cabbage salad, \u00a0one low-fat honey yoghurt and a can of the marvellous Mitzli peach nectar. \u00a0Now that\u2019s what I call value, \u00a0although my guts could use more roughage.<\/p>\n

Wash hair. \u00a0A pretty good day all in all. \u00a0At last I had completed my Ein Kerem to Emmaus walk. \u00a0Tiring at times but worth it I wonder ?<\/p>\n

The deed\u2019s been done anyroads ! \u00a0To sleep 9.30p.m…<\/p>\n


\nFriday 15<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

Early start again \u00a0– \u00a0it\u2019s really my best time for writing I feel. \u00a0More luke warm tap coffee … this Maxwell House stuff, \u00a0made in Germany, \u00a0is pretty disgusting and doesn\u2019t dissolve properly. \u00a0Sugar seems unnecessary, \u00a0and Israel only has white sugar anyway.<\/p>\n

Friday is the Moslem Sabbath so I should perhaps concentrate the day\u2019s activities in the Jewish areas ? \u00a0Down to Post Office, \u00a0up & right, \u00a0then left down through Jaffa Gate. \u00a0Things are quiet this early. \u00a0Compose what I hope will be nice photo of moon, \u00a0cypress trees & Moslem symbol on top of tower in main Jewish square. \u00a0Nowhere open for coffee.<\/p>\n

At length walk up Via Dolorosa \u00a0– \u00a0shot of donkey ascending. \u00a0Had seen a few sheep earlier being herded around these narrow alleys \u00a0– imagine that in \u00a0Soho say ! \u00a0A variety of motorised transport is able to negotiate these twisting, \u00a0stepped & paved little streets. The best is a mini tractor pulling a trailer, \u00a0made by Holder I think.<\/p>\n

Near Damascus Gate I finally get my cup of coffee Arabische \u00a0– \u00a0a tad expensive here but pleasant. \u00a0Pass the lady street vendors with their vegetables & fruit \u00a0–<\/p>\n

Maybe there\u2019s more action up in New Jerusalem. \u00a09a.m. now. \u00a0Pee stop in caf\u00e9 beneath the Hapoalim Bank Tower but their water isn\u2019t hot yet. \u00a0Corner shop hasn\u2019t got change for a 20 note for a 9.50 shekel pack of blue Dunhill Lights but seems to be dealing in $100 dollar bills for another customer ! \u00a0\u00a0I window shop awhile around this excellent shopping zone.<\/p>\n

These few streets of 2 storey houses were built 140 years ago \u00a0– \u00a0the first Jewish settlement outside the Old City. \u00a0Brave pioneers into Palestinian territory. \u00a0They now house a nice mix of shops, \u00a0restaurants, \u00a0caf\u00e9s etc. … a bit like London\u2019s Covent Garden. \u00a0Some wonderful goods meet my eyes.<\/p>\n

Cigarette seller at last can give me change. \u00a0Then I discover the Caf\u00e9 de Colombia (best in the world I reckon) but it transpires they import the ever present Italian Sanfreddo variety. \u00a0Nevertheless, \u00a03 pretty waitresses (one particularly so !) please me & a large glass of frothy white coffee tastes good.<\/p>\n

Shopping time. \u00a0More Christmas presents secured at French run place who has spectacular selection of \u2018ethnic imports\u2019 \u00a0– \u00a0from Peru, \u00a0Ecuador, \u00a0Kenya & Indonesia to name but four. \u00a0Buy 2 beautiful mobiles, \u00a0painted wooden animals & a bird letter opener, \u00a0all for 200 shekels on Diners Club card. \u00a0One more painted wooden bird from another shop & wondrous Indian ? embroidered sash for 37sh.. \u00a0It\u2019s worth so many times that. \u00a0Weeks of work must have gone into such fine needlework some years ago. \u00a0A glossy modern fridge magnet from Alexander\u2019s up Ben Yehuda then I\u2019m seeking a canvas\/cloth bag because all these things aren\u2019t going to fit in the Argos rucksack !<\/p>\n

Breakfast had been a wholemeal bagel \u00a0– \u00a0one bakery in town only doing them it seems. \u00a0Down for a deli lunch in the Old City going via Christ Church for another pee & to see if Kevin had left me any note … non, \u00a0not yet. \u00a0Hot sun & fun in the central Jewish square as I snack on hummus & small white plaited loaf \u00a0– \u00a0v. good. \u00a0Shop below looks brilliant but my eyes were bigger than my wallet as usual & I exit with a good bag (60 sh. on Diners) perfect for its intended role.<\/p>\n

Everything closing now (1p.m.) for siesta. \u00a0Refused entry to Dome of the Rock sector cos it\u2019s Moslems only today. \u00a0Explain to guard that he would be very welcome any day of the week in a Christian church. \u00a0Allowed to take photo though.<\/p>\n

Had earlier revisited Israel Discount Bank at op of BY Street where Mark, \u00a0busy as a bee as ever, \u00a0had efficiently helped me get 250 shekels more.<\/p>\n

Masses of Moslem ladies leaving their holy worship as the Arab quarters come to life. \u00a0Round the back streets, \u00a0photo of fine gateway \u00a0– \u00a0later turned away from Dome zone despite it now being emptier.<\/p>\n

Path leads me towards Lion\u2019s Gate. \u00a03 shekel entry into the Bethesda Pools & adjacent St. Ann\u2019s Church & gardens. \u00a0Here Jesus healed a very sick man, \u00a0\u201ctake up your bed and walk\u201d. \u00a0Two crosses, \u00a0well 8 actually, \u00a04 on each stone pillar base mark the spot. \u00a02 photos.<\/p>\n

Out of Lion\u2019s Gate \u00a0– \u00a0men at entrance of Moslem cemetery on right would like 5 shekels if I want to walk therein. \u00a0Politely decline & reverse direction up the Stork Walk, \u00a0left past the Rockefeller Museum then right back to hotel \u00a0– \u00a0small siesta is the intention. \u00a0\u00bd hour\u2019s rest, \u00a0settle up my account in dollars & shekels, \u00a0try to telephone to reconfirm my flight but no reply on the 3 Tel Aviv numbers at 5p.m.. \u00a05.10p.m. into Garden Tomb. \u00a0Peace. \u00a0Chat to volunteer from Guildford. \u00a02 photos. \u00a0Leave quiet & happy.<\/p>\n

Wander up to new town again \u00a0but precious little happening \u00a0– \u00a0where does everyone go on a Friday night ? \u00a0Yukky egg mayonnaise roll before back to St. George\u2019s Bazaar (opposite Cathedral) to buy a 30 sh. lovely silver spoon then to the best deli in town. \u00a0Tonight it\u2019s a mango nectar, \u00a0a schnitzel\/potato\/mayo pitta sandwich grilled on both sides, \u00a0a bread triangle filled with spinach (?) & herbs dunked into a tub of cream cheese\/cucumber\/chilli & other vegetables. \u00a0How\u2019s that for 12 shekels ? \u00a0Israel can be expensive but if you root around bargains abound !<\/p>\n

Bed, \u00a0believe it or not, \u00a0at about 8.15p.m.<\/p>\n


\nSaturday 16<\/b>th<\/b> December<\/b><\/p>\n

My last full day, \u00a0I trust, \u00a0in Israel. \u00a0Check in time is 11.55p.m., \u00a03 hours before take off again, \u00a0but despite trying all three numbers of Issta in Tel Aviv yesterday evening many times there was no answer. \u00a0Hence not a confirmed booking … fingers crossed.<\/p>\n

Out at 5.45a.m.. \u00a0Secure a pack of Rothmans Lights (better than Dunhill Lights, \u00a0milder) and a good coffee opposite Damascus Gate. \u00a0Streets are very quiet indeed \u00a0– \u00a0Jewish Sabbath but another holy day for Moslems it transpires later.<\/p>\n

At the Arab bus station directly underneath Golgotha seek out a No.36 to Bethany. \u00a0Too early it seems, \u00a0so I walk. \u00a0Down past Garden of Gethsemane, \u00a0uphill round the Mount of Olives, \u00a0graves to the left graves to the right, \u00a0gently descending as the road twists and turns. \u00a0Schoolchildren in danger as there is little pavement.<\/p>\n

Eventually after some 4 miles a Greek (?) church on the right beckons. \u00a0Try door, \u00a0closed. \u00a0Walk around their olive grove & take photo or view back towards Jerusalem. \u00a0The dry desert hills of Judea lie to the north east. \u00a0Back up to church gates \u00a0– \u00a0knock twice, \u00a0answered by old lady gardener who gestures it is not open.<\/p>\n

These Greeks only open their churches to \u2018tourists\u2019 one day a year in April. \u00a0Closed shop Christianity.<\/p>\n

Head back & soon discover what I\u2019d inadvertently missed on the descent. \u00a0Lazarus\u2019 tomb & attached Pope John Paul V1\u2019s Franciscan Church. \u00a0Up the hill to back of church, \u00a0rubbish strewn everywhere. \u00a0A couple of tourist trade stalls but opposite church entrance is site I had hoped to see. \u00a0Declaring itself to be the \u2018oldest house in Bethany\u2019, \u00a0it is the little home of Mary, \u00a0Martha and their brother Lazarus now neatly kept by Mr Rabah Elyan who seats me down, \u00a0proffers a weak Turkish coffee from his thermos, \u00a0a second cup of instant after the house tour. \u00a0A well, \u00a0out of service now, \u00a0dominates the ground floor, \u00a0upstairs in a round room, \u00a0seating with hubbly bubbly pipes & carpets for decoration, \u00a0he holds services for Moslems & Christians. \u00a0Terrible sob story about how hard his life is, \u00a0170 shekels in debt to the electricity company, \u00a0mother dying of a heart problem (?) \u201c2 aspirin\u201d, \u00a0I advise, \u00a0Moslems trying to buy the house & turn it into a gift shop, \u00a0roof leaking, \u00a0put in prison by the Israelis, \u00a0no money for school fees etc etc..<\/p>\n

Begins to grate after 10 minutes or so. \u00a0How much to believe ? \u00a0Offer to help as best I can \u00a0– \u00a0it would indeed be a crying shame if this important site, \u00a0the home of Jesus\u2019 best friends & scene of the raising of Lazarus from the dead, \u00a0were to disintegrate.<\/p>\n

In need of peace I go down into the airy, \u00a0pleasantly glass domed with doves, \u00a0well furbished church after taking photo inside. \u00a0His friends\u2019 dining area. \u00a0Cigarette in the garden out front pondering all the while my course of action.<\/p>\n

The man seemed genuine, \u00a0had given me a cigarette, \u00a0a glass of coffee (returned) \u00a0– \u00a0I handed him 50 shekels (half of my remaining shekels near enough) \u00a0– \u00a0\u201cfor your mother\u201d, I say. \u00a0Pray to Allah for her. \u00a0Back towards Jerusalem, \u00a0some way up the hill I discover my remaining Dunhills and lighter are missing. \u00a0Had I left them in the garden ? \u00a0Is it worth returning ? \u00a0A niggling doubt remains but I strongly suspect this man has a little pick-pocketing habit. \u00a0My jacket pocket is an easy target.<\/p>\n

Forgiveness is offered if my thought is right but to steal, \u00a0however meagre the item is wrong, \u00a0& a lesson must be learnt.<\/p>\n

God sees all.<\/p>\n

Further up the hill a flurry of sparrows draws my attention to a house. \u00a0Chickens are penned in the nearby shop and merit a photo. \u00a0Trudge back to the Old City and enter at Lion Gate.<\/p>\n

10.30a.m. now, \u00a0have to vacate my room by 12 noon.<\/p>\n

Get cross with Moslems at the cemetery gate, \u00a0how dare they charge 5 shekels to enter if one ain\u2019t a Moslem ? \u00a0Get cross again as access denied to Golden Dome of the Temple precinct (yet again. \u00a0I had tried before setting off to Bethany). \u00a0Gates closed everywhere, \u00a0one \u2018tourist gate\u2019 exists somewhere but I\u2019m not sure I\u2019ve found it yet … it seemed easier 4 years ago.<\/p>\n

Small lecture ensues on how Moslems are welcome in Christian churches, \u00a0are we not equal ? \u00a0The whole square kilometre was closed off all yesterday for Islam + much of today I learnt from some Dutchmen. \u00a0Yet this site is special for Jews & Christians too, \u00a0why not let us roam your square at will \u00a0– \u00a0ok we\u2019ll give you your personal time in your mosques but please let us in at those gates. \u00a0We mean no harm.<\/p>\n

They have much to learn.<\/p>\n

Discover new streets, \u00a0alleys and tunnels in this maze of a city. \u00a0Pleasant time in the Ethiopian monastery, \u00a0tiny cells for the monks & a good man to show me round. \u00a0Photo.<\/p>\n

Greek sector very much doom & gloom (likewise the Armenian quarter walked through yesterday) but enlivened near Jaffa Gate by throngs of happy children.<\/p>\n

After an Arab honey roll on up to Christ Church once more for a make-it-yourself 2 shekel coffee & friendly souls. \u00a0No sign of Kevin or any note for me. \u00a0Walk back to hotel who say kindly, \u00a0don\u2019t rush, \u00a0room\u2019s ok till 3p.m.. \u00a0Half hour rest then neatly pack up all my belongings and gifts.<\/p>\n

Several hours to dispose of before it\u2019s time to leave. \u00a0Garden Tomb not open till 2.30p.m. so enter Damascus Gate once more. \u00a0This time it\u2019s thronged with \\Saturday afternoon Arab shoppers & a struggle to walk with thousands of people + cars too large for these widthless streets.<\/p>\n

Jewish quarter still dead quiet. \u00a0More rounding and abouting \u00a0– \u00a0revisit shop to but 2nd aerial view map of Jerusalem OC then revisit marble box shop to explain to the owner & his VIP friend that the acre of Garden Tomb garden is forever freehold British, \u00a0protected by an Ottoman \u2018Furman\u2019 … solid Islamic Law & not on a lease as he had inferred. \u00a0Part on good company. \u00a0Tourist Information Office closed ! … all day Saturday. \u00a0Not very helpful, \u00a0eh ?<\/p>\n

Shop in Christ Church shop by their gate, \u00a0one more map to frame & a lovely little book on new visions of Jesus. \u00a010 shekels the two.<\/p>\n

One more cup of coffee, \u00a0enjoyed in warm sunshine outside. \u00a0Into & around the church. \u00a0Pray in sunshine corner at left of altar rail, \u00a0past the piano & outside again. \u00a0Meet Kevin who has yet to have any news but I leave my address.<\/p>\n

Down the steps & ramps again, \u00a0out at Damascus once more & to just about my favourite place here, \u00a0the Garden Tomb. \u00a0Long chat with the lady keeper of the gate as many Romanians enter (they are used by the Israelis as the British used the Irish … nigh slave labour), \u00a0some Russians, \u00a0some Australians. \u00a0Long chat just outside with German Jewish \u00e9migr\u00e9 to Kenya who knew my mate Chris Nevill … holocaust memories of Einstein, \u00a0gold even amongst the Germans … Schindler and many others who suffered for their humanity.<\/p>\n

Long time spent in the tasteful gardens … move this way and that. \u00a0Photo of Skull\/Golgotha hill \u00a0– \u00a0to Large & Small Chapels. \u00a0Good guardians here. \u00a0Quick visit inside tomb, \u00a0no sonic booms this time as I exit His temporary sepulchre (as there had been on my last visit).<\/p>\n

Cocoa the cat moves out & in \u00a0– \u00a0back inside to the warmth of the shop. \u00a0Say my adieus.<\/p>\n

Venture back to Ben Yehuda zone … the miles I clock up on foot … only caf\u00e9s are open. \u00a0Locate the Menora candlestick (old) that I had my eyes on. \u00a0420 shekels less 20 % vat & so on. \u00a0Tant pis, \u00a0the jewellers is closed all day Saturday.<\/p>\n

Decide not to wait till 6p.m. when things may open & it\u2019s back to St. George\u2019s after a talk with Abraham at the Bazaar shop. \u00a0Quick tour of the Cathedral (closing up time !) & the Guest House (ground floor rooms look very nice).<\/p>\n

Back to Meridian Hotel to book a taxi to Ben Gurion as there are no city buses today. \u00a0It\u2019s going to come at 9.45p.m.. \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Back to the deli this time for cherry yoghurt, \u00a0tub of not quite so good aubergine p\u00e2t\u00e9 & 2 pittas. \u00a05 shekels only.<\/p>\n

Eat my supper in a quiet corner of the American Colony garden with a cat for company. \u00a0Marcellams & inch\u2019allah to the hotel shopkeeper.<\/p>\n

2 good coffees & a few more cigarettes in the Meridian lobby awaiting my 30 shekel ride to the airport.<\/p>\n

Ford Transit van arrives, \u00a0converted for seating. \u00a0Dump kit in back & leap in. \u00a0We pick up 2 further passengers in poorer Jewish quarter \u00a0– \u00a0one young guy going back to U.S.A. with enormous suitcase after just 2 weeks stay. \u00a0Second pick up (hard to find) is very large lady who has \u00bc of a ton of luggage which is rammed into any space available squashing everyone else\u2019s stuff. \u00a0She herself squashes next to me on back pew, \u00a0coughing & sneezing all the way past Ladrun to the airport.<\/p>\n

Check in area is busy busy so I sojourn outside \u00a0– \u00a0large lady with large luggage is bemused, \u00a0wants El Al. \u00a0I help load her bags onto a trolley & off she toddles.<\/p>\n

Time to kill is spent part outside, \u00a0rain now, \u00a0part in emptier arrivals hall where hippy is taking inordinate length of time to read each page of a Carlos Castenada book. \u00a0Maybe he has swallowed his remaining stash of ‘Red Leb’ … it certainly looks that way.<\/p>\n

11.30p.m., \u00a0off to check in my Argos. \u00a0Queue some time for the security check before check in. \u00a0Here we go again. \u00a04 years ago each item of my belongings had been minutely examined, \u00a0the most intensive search I had ever encountered in all my world travel which I hazard a guess is amongst the widest.<\/p>\n

The same questions, \u00a0the same training for these girls. \u00a0Where have you arrived from ? \u00a0Where did you go in Israel ? \u00a0When did you book your ticket ? \u00a0The list goes on and on … receipts are checked … more questions. \u00a0Has anyone given you anything ? \u00a0Have you at any time left your luggage anywhere ? \u00a0This last question proves my undoing temporarily. \u00a0Shock horror, \u00a0I mention the word Arab ! \u00a0Yes, \u00a0I left my bags in \u00a0the hotel during the afternoon in the security\/customer service room by reception. \u00a0First lady hands me over to second more trained lady.<\/p>\n

Entire first 15 minutes of questions are repeated word for word, \u00a0intonation for intonation. \u00a0I\u2019m starting to get bored of this. \u00a0She has severe trouble understanding why this man can travel independently \u00a0– \u00a0no tours, \u00a0no packages, \u00a0no hotel reservations.<\/p>\n

The last hurdle is an extraordinary question. \u00a0Have you made any friends during your stay, \u00a0has anyone invite you to their home ? \u00a0One of the joys of travel is now reduced to to a perceived threat to the Jewish nation. \u00a0But I pass this final frontier \u00a0– \u00a0Eton\/Christ Church smarm finally disarms her & a faint smile opens a crack in her door. \u00a0Yellow\/black pass stickers are applied all over my now scattered bits.<\/p>\n

Oh Israel \u00a0– \u00a0such paranoia … this is an English flight on an English plane. \u00a0Don\u2019t be so scared. \u00a0Are there no sensors\/detectors which could do this job for you \u00a0… spotting your feared weapons or little packs of Semtex ? \u00a0Surely yeah.<\/p>\n

The path at last begins to clear, \u00a0although a mass of trolleys make movement difficult. \u00a0Bag checked in … rucksacks to a different conveyor belt once more. \u00a0Upstairs through the buzzless (that\u2019s rare) portal & slump pretty knackered in the glitzy duty free area. \u00a0Phew.<\/p>\n

My remaining few shekels are spent on 2 Disney puzzle jigsaws \u00a0– \u00a0till operator gives me them for 11.70 rather than the true cost of 12sh. \u00a0\u00a0Toda. \u00a0He knows where Enya lives; \u00a0most northerly point in all Ireland but is listening to the Pogues on his music machine.<\/p>\n

Carton of Silk Cut, \u00a0\u00bd bottle of cheap Israeli red wine & pack of mineral mud soap from Duty Free. \u00a0My new bag strap snaps … mind you it was \u00a0quite heavy by now.<\/p>\n

Board the 757, \u00a0reassuring Rolls Royce engines. \u00a0Lift off 3.10a.m. local time, \u00a0it\u2019s Sunday. \u00a0Two ladies on my left keep themselves to themselves.<\/p>\n

Better flight & food this way. \u00a0Nod off from time to time.<\/p>\n

6a.m. UK time touchdown at Gatwick.<\/p>\n

Meet 2 travellers in waiting area who have been in Dubai. \u00a0She had been stared at relentlessly \u00a0– \u00a0some Arabs so rarely see an inch of flesh.<\/p>\n

Bag pick up goes fine, \u00a0cruise through green zone, \u00a0one is allowed \u00a3126 of gifts & I\u2019m below that easily methinks.<\/p>\n

Rather nasty 65p expresso … none of the cash dispensers will take a Nat West card & I\u2019ve got \u00a33.35 cash left. \u00a0Trouble with computer signs on the train platform leads me & the 2 lovely ladies who had been next to me on the plane to board a Thameslink number causing us to change at East Croydon.<\/p>\n

One gives me the Romanian recipe for the aubergine p\u00e2t\u00e9 & I try to advise what would be nice for their week in London & environs. \u00a0Suggest Southwark, \u00a0Covent Garden & St. Albans, \u00a0maybe Oxford.<\/p>\n

First train has 4 nicely done hand drawn pictures, \u00a02 at each end of carriage. \u00a0I sit on seat in line between one of St. Mary\u2019s Battersea, \u00a0the Wren church where I was married and at the far end is one of St. Alban\u2019s Cathedral.<\/p>\n

Exit at Clapham Junction, \u00a0buy travelcard, \u00a05p left \u00a0now. \u00a0Longish wait on a Sunday morning \u00a0for the 270 down Garratt Lane.<\/p>\n

Gulls, \u00a0crows, \u00a0pigeons & sparrows enliven the cold. A heron passes high.<\/p>\n

Door to Atheldene is stiffer than usual but yields to a shoulder.<\/p>\n

9a.m. now … answermachine is flashing, \u00a05 calls this week, \u00a0bills & more pleasant mail pile the doormat. \u00a0Spend some time arranging montage of my shopping & take photo number 36.<\/p>\n

Thank you Lord for \u00a0lovely holiday \u00a0– \u00a0hard grind at times but more than a million moments of utmost revelation.<\/p>\n

I will stay with you if you stay with me<\/p>\n

I will follow you forever<\/p>\n

Follow me, \u00a0bevakasha<\/p>\n

It\u2019s your show<\/p>\n

Vidame<\/p>\n

J x<\/p>\n

The End<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thursday 7th December 1995 \u00a0& \u00a0Friday 8th December The day started before 5a.m. but that\u2019s another story of packing\/sorting and so on. \u00a0Tikka was picked up by Carole, \u00a0Grace & Jessica at lunchtime and I escaped from Consumer Forum at 1.30\u2019ish only to return a minute later having forgotten my blue jacket … typical. He\u2019s … Continue reading Israel diary December 1995<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[10],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/397"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=397"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/397\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":417,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/397\/revisions\/417"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=397"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=397"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=397"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}