{"id":377,"date":"2014-12-08T11:02:44","date_gmt":"2014-12-08T11:02:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=377"},"modified":"2017-02-17T14:02:27","modified_gmt":"2017-02-17T14:02:27","slug":"jamies-israel-diary-january-1992","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=377","title":{"rendered":"Jamie&#8217;s Israel Diary January 1992"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"pdfprnt-buttons pdfprnt-buttons-post pdfprnt-top-right\"><a href=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fposts%2F377&print=pdf\" class=\"pdfprnt-button pdfprnt-button-pdf\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/pdf-print\/images\/pdf.png\" alt=\"image_pdf\" title=\"View PDF\" \/><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fposts%2F377&print=print\" class=\"pdfprnt-button pdfprnt-button-print\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/pdf-print\/images\/print.png\" alt=\"image_print\" title=\"Print Content\" \/><\/a><\/div><p><b>Saturday 18<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January 1992<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Spring from Springfield at \u00a09a.m., having \u00a0written letter to Graham re Patrick Estate \/ Wellesley Estate monies.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #003366;\"><i>This is one Graham Millar who it turned out, after much detailed investigation by myself, family members and ultimately the Securities and Futures Authority, had \u2018churned and burned\u2019 some \u00a3250,000 of my Trust and Lloyd\u2019s deposit inheritance. He had even used \u00a313,500 of my money to pay one of his own tax bills !<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Post it at Lillie Road \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0van started first time; surprised me! \u00a0Park outside Queens Club Gardens where John Piper slapped me 12 years ago (soon forgiven) &amp; walk to Baron\u2019s Court Tube. \u00a0Plenty of time at Heathrow &#8230; walk round Terminals 2,3 and 1. \u00a0See Steve Davies + cue-case in No.3, \u00a0smaller than expected, \u00a0trying to look inconspicuous. \u00a0Stock up stomach on coffee, coke, Burger King chicken concoction (not as pretty as picture!) &amp; Danish pastries. Check in bag at CSA desk after long Q redirected to TAP desk. Chat with Romanian off on TAROM. \u00a0Aeroflot desks to the left, \u00a0Russian models and their minders; \u00a0extraordinary guy in panic obviously smuggling currency \/ cocaine into Russia with his girlfriend who seemed to be in on the game. Kept zipping \/ unzipping his taped-up bags and shifting the trollies around for no good reason. \u00a0Expect he\u2019s in the Lubyanka now. \u00a0Slight delay on flight but only 1\u2154 hours to Prague \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0good plane, Tupolev 144, (a direct rip-off of a \u00a0BAC 1-11 apart from the seats which were only marginally inferior) excellent snack meal of bread &amp; meats etc.. \u00a0Free drinks &amp; newspapers \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0take note BA !<\/p>\n<p>Arrive Prague 5.30p.m. their time, hop onto tarmac &amp; into bus which takes us all of 100 yards ! \u00a0Not many planes around \u2013 one Mongolian, two Czech. \u00a0Clear customs\/controls &amp; collect bag \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0leave it at left luggage. \u00a06p.m. now, \u00a0bus to town not going for \u00bd hour or so so take very smart clean taxi ( $9 cash much appreciated ) to St. Nicholas Church in main square of Old City. \u00a0See about 60 cars in total on 25 minute drive in &amp; that\u2019s Saturday night on the airport highway !<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #003366;\"><i>See letter\/article sent to Vole for Prague interlude &#8230;<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Lots of checks &amp; piss-poor scanning equipment \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u2013 TU 154 (Trident copy) \u2192 \u00a0Tel Aviv. Leaves on time.<\/p>\n<p><b>Sunday 19<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Arrive 5a.m. at Tel Aviv \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0incredibly efficient airport. Through all checks &amp; bag in hand 10 minutes after leaving aircraft \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0eat your heart out Gatwick. \u00a0Bus to town. \u00a0Check out Adiv Hotel (no Diners Club) so walk on to Hotel Moss &amp; sleep till 1p.m.. Walk round town for 5 hours + . \u00a0Highlights \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0Russian shop, camera guy, Spanish run caf\u00e9, silverware. \u00a0Lowlights \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0dearth of books on Prague, dogs at the yacht club. Gloomy pictures bar one at modern art museum. Good cappuccino at London Caf\u00e9 \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0why can\u2019t we make squirty cream non-UHT ? Synagogue on Allenby won\u2019t let me in without little hat \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0anorak hood not good enough ! Buy old maps, T-shirts, film.<\/p>\n<p>Evening taxi trip out to beyond Hertzliya to the Daniel Hotel (very plush), \u00a0Bali Hai restaurant with Thai staff. Table of 6 Germans &amp; thoughts thereon. Back 11p.m.. Good sleep.<\/p>\n<p><b>Monday 20th January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Slightly shoddy b\/fast at H.Moss. \u00a0Buy amazing Mozart and Prague book from German-Jewish run old bookshop \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0pay about $18 but it\u2019s worth much more. \u00a0Nice people. \u00a0Get nail clipper to tackle awkward little toenails ! \u00a0More coffee \/ croissants with the Spaniards. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Eilat\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/3\/36\/Eilat_ST_05.jpg\/1280px-Eilat_ST_05.jpg\" alt=\"Eilat, its harbor, and the surrounding mountains\" width=\"209\" height=\"110\" \/><\/a>Suss out car hire prices &amp; decide to take bus to Eilat for 29 shekels ($12). \u00a0Arrive Central Bus Station on No.4 town bus \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bolshy slob on bench \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0eat snack &amp; board bus with loads of army guys<a href=\"http:\/\/vanunu.com\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/vanunu.com\/pix\/pic13.jpg\" alt=\"Dimona Nuclear Power Plant\" width=\"209\" height=\"211\" \/><\/a> &amp; gals for 5 hour trip to Eilat. \u00a0Stop at Beer\u2019Sheeva &amp; again just before Dimona Power (Bomb) Plant at Azad\u00a0 \u2013 \u00a0Mordechai Vanunu and all that hooha. \u00a0Negev desert. \u00a0Last stop at weird animal sanctuary \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0nearly miss bus. \u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/a\/ae\/Mordechai_Vanunu_2009.jpg\/640px-Mordechai_Vanunu_2009.jpg\" alt=\"Mordechai Vanunu\" width=\"108\" height=\"144\" \/>Taxi from Eilat to the excellent Coral Beach hotel, masses to eat at supper including steak but with conversation-less krauts. \u00a0Write half Prague saga. \u00a0Good sleep again.<\/p>\n<p><b>Tuesday 21<\/b><b>st<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Multi-choice breakfast. \u00a0Test sea and pool waters \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0sea warmer. \u00a0Wander down towards Taba past coral reserve, \u00a0funky observatory &amp; submarine ride where 2 camels say hello, marine research centre, hotels being built &amp; Eddi\u2019s caf\u00e9 1km from border. \u00a0Return to hotel &amp; continue towards Eilat. \u00a0Check out \u2018Texas Ranch\u2019 rodeo centre, \u00a0enter dolphinarium (nice), on past oil terminals &amp; port (thousands of S.E.Asian cars), past army bases &amp; along sea front round hotels. \u00a0\u00a0Looking for centre but signs not great so get rather lost climbing amongst the new settlements built for Soviet \u00e9migr\u00e9s (1,600 here so far). \u00a0Eventually reach bus station after some poor directing. \u00a0Good snack bar there. \u00a0Enter department store &amp; purchase Cougar radio\/cassette \u00a320 ace value. \u00a0Drop film for developing at Shalom Centre (Shopping Mall) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0good cappuccino at caf\u00e9 there. \u00a0Browse around 11 miles today \u0103 pied, I reckon. \u00a0Managed some sunbathing at lunchtime but factor 12 Body Shop is perhaps too screening in this good but gentle sun.<\/p>\n<p>Talk to drunk Finn &amp; interesting chat with 2 young Danes re scuba diving. \u00a0One is instructor \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0tells about guy who had to spend 115 hours in the decompression tank owing to overdoing life on holiday the week before (sans sleep) &amp; trying to rescue friend\u2019s diving belt whilst underwater. \u00a0Doesn\u2019t sound the sport for me !<\/p>\n<p>Soup\/salad supper \u2013 finish Prague article.<\/p>\n<p><b>Wednesday 22<\/b><b>nd<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Write postcards to Sue &amp; Andy Garber. Get photocopies of Prague piece \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0send one to Bernard Levin &amp; another with letter to the twins. \u00a0Whatalot of words I\u2019m doing at the moment ! \u00a0\u00a0More serious sunbathing with Factor 4 after a brief excursion by bus to Taba, Egypt. \u00a0Lots of form filling, tax paying, customs etc. \u00a0Very little over there apart from Hilton Hotel &amp; the Nelson Club Hotel \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0no army, few people. \u00a0Territory returned to Egypt after Camp David accord 1980 ?<\/p>\n<p>Sun loses its strength at 2\u2019ish \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0so more scribbling until 4\u2019ish when I bus in to Eilat. \u00a0Buy map of bible locations, batteries \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0film not ready. \u00a0Post Office shut. \u00a0Check out \u2018Reliable\u2019 car hire, more expensive than Tel Aviv, haven\u2019t yet decided whether to bus up or rent car. \u00a0Walk down to Galei Hotel to watch documentary (Canadian) in Finnish (!) on treatment of Jews in Russia in 1990 \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0apparently it\u2019s got worse since then \u00a0\u00a0&#8211; \u00a0\u00a0&amp; their immigration here. \u00a0Introduced by sweet little man from Coventry who helps their cause. \u00a0\u00a0Brilliant dinner at Tandoor restaurant &#8230; Tandoori Nan, \u00a0Chicken Korma &amp; mixed veg. \u00a0Sweet rice dumplings in honey, \u00a0Turkish coffee \u00a0\u00a312 \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0I assure you the best Indian food \u00a0I have ever tasted accompanied by live sittar &amp; dancing. \u00a0Underneath King Solomon\u2019s hotel, v.large.<\/p>\n<p>9p.m. attended lecture given by Jacky Pri-Gal, Honorary Consul, at Neptune Hotel supposedly on foreign policy, economy &amp; tourism but the bore concentrated on domestic policy &amp; Eilat. \u00a0He was interesting on David Gurion, \u00a0later Ben-Gurion who founded this country. \u00a0Left early \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0too hot, too dull !<\/p>\n<p>And so to bed.<\/p>\n<p><b>Thursday 23<\/b><b>rd<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Write letter to Diana. \u00a0Hope it works.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #003366;\"><em>My sister-in-law, \u00a0a poor choice of go-between in my attempt to rescue my marriage, who binned my letters to her.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Bus to Eilat 9a.m.. Buy envelopes in Post Office, film not ready \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0organise car hire $310 for 8 days from Sat.a.m.. \u00a0Reliable Car Hire. \u00a0Buy 5 tapes at \u00a35 each, 2 Marianne Faithfull, 1 Police, 1 Stevie Wonder, 1 Dvorak\/Smetana. \u00a0Coffee \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0film ready \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0none of Prague &#8230; photos they had registered as negatives ! \u00a0Post letter to Diana &amp; to Vole. \u00a0Back by bus, \u00a0sunbathing nearly 3 hours. \u00a0Then to Coral World \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0underwater observatory, \u00a0best aquarium in the world (?), \u00a0living coral, \u00a0myriads of wondrous coloured &amp; shaped fish. \u00a0Turtle pool, shark pool. Well worth 22 shekels entry \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0evening nap, \u00a0Arab evening in dining room, \u00a0belly dancer &amp; her minder\/fleecer . Leave before end to read.<\/p>\n<p><b>Friday 24<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Wake early &amp; read B.Levin. \u00a0Write postcards to Pip &amp; Charlotte + Steve Morris. \u00a07.45a.m. bus comes for tour \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0Timna Valley. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Timna_Valley\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/f\/ff\/Timna_1.jpg\/800px-Timna_1.jpg\" alt=\"Timna Valley\" width=\"209\" height=\"157\" \/><\/a>Brief documentary showing mining\/smelting of copper. \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Plutonium here too. \u00a0\u00a0Sculptured rocks, \u00a0Solomon\u2019s pillars, \u00a0little Egyptian holy site to 5\/6 gods. \u00a0Then to Timna Lake (funded by Missouri Jews) where Bedouins encamp \u00a0and camel escapes to come and check me out. \u00a0Coffee milk good. \u00a0Discover it\u2019s made at next port of call the Yotvata Kibbutz (considered one of the best in Israel). \u00a0Friesian \/ Holstein \/ Charolais cross milkers looking forlorn but get good diet of cotton seed \/ straw \/ fresh fruit &amp; have classical music played to them. \u00a0Visitors\u2019 centre. \u00a0Back past Hai Bar gazelles \/ ostriches to Eilat new settlements at top of hill. \u00a0$130,000 for 5 bed house. \u00a0Jewellry centre \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0malachite green\/ blue stone &amp; silverware. \u00a0Back 2p.m. \u2013 nap. \u00a0Read, early supper, early bed.<\/p>\n<p><b>Saturday 25<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Shalom Shabbat. \u00a0Postcard to Piers F-A. &amp; Minnow. \u00a09a.m.Suzuki Spirit arrives \u00a0\u2192 \u00a0Eilat, sign papers &amp; off on Ovda Road up along Egypt border (wire fence) \u00a0through marvellous Negev scenery to Sdi Boquer. \u00a0First to Ben Gurion graves then his simple home 1 mile away. \u00a0Pass Avedat fort on hill. \u00a0On past Dimona to Masada. \u00a0Cable car up, \u00a0walk down (20 mins) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0walk round edge. \u00a0Essenes &amp; Zealots. <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Masada\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/1\/14\/Israel-2013-Aerial_21-Masada.jpg\/640px-Israel-2013-Aerial_21-Masada.jpg\" alt=\"The ancient fortress of Masada\" width=\"209\" height=\"279\" \/><\/a>\u00a0On to Qumran, \u00a0Dead Sea Scrolls found in 1947 in caves. \u00a0Dead end street past burnt out jeeps (1967 ?) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0looking for road to Bethlehem, \u00a0end up in Jerusalem. \u00a0Lucky to find sign to American Colony. \u00a0$50 B&amp;B in annexe, \u00a0perfectly comfortable. \u00a0Walk around first to St. George\u2019s Cathedral &amp; chapel. \u00a0Keith-Roach plaque &#8230;<\/p>\n<p><i>In gratitude to Almighty GOD and in loving memory of Violet Oliva Keith-Roach who worshipped for many years in this cathedral<\/i>. <i>This memorial is erected by her husband Edward Keith-Roach, District Commissioner of Jerusalem, and by her two sons, Martin and Anthony. 1939 A.D.<\/i><\/p>\n<p><i>\u201cShe opened her mouth with wisdom and in her tongue is the law of kindness\u201d.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>On to Scolus Hill, \u00a0across ring road to Jewish quarter, \u00a0past the Romanian Church &amp; \u2018Italian Hospital\u2019, &amp; to St. Paul\u2019s Church where evangelical service going on, \u00a0attend for \u00bd hour \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0rather odd little songs with poor accompaniment, \u00a0but they mean well. \u00a0Back for supper in hotel, 9p.m..<\/p>\n<p><b>Sunday 26<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Superb breakfast. \u00a0Eucharist at 8a.m.. \u00a0Congregation 4. \u00a0My 3rd communion. \u00a0Into Old City at Post Office gate. \u00a0Tomb of Kings closed Sunday. \u00a0Franciscan cloister &amp; church &amp; garden. Greek place of Jesus\u2019 prison in Via Dolorosa. \u00a0Round &amp; about &amp; into Dome of the Rock. \u00a013 shekels entry \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0shoes off, \u00a0bolshy Muslim guard in cave shrine under rock. \u00a0\u00a0Allah sign &amp; plastic bin sitting on rock. \u00a0On through Arab market (saffron 50p) into smart chic Jewish quarter. \u00a0Expensive coffee 4.50 shekels but good Gaggia type.<b> \u00a0<\/b>Out of gate by Armenian church round walls to Jaffa Gate \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0enter Jaffa Gate &amp; enter Christ Church. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Christ_Church,_Jerusalem\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/e\/ea\/Altar_of_Christ_Church_in_Jerusalem.jpg\/800px-Altar_of_Christ_Church_in_Jerusalem.jpg\" alt=\"Altar of Christ Church\" width=\"209\" height=\"157\" \/><\/a>Vicar waffling on &#8230; service started at 9.30, \u00a0it\u2019s now 10.40 &amp; he\u2019s still rabbiting on. \u00a0I got here at 10.20, 10.55 now &amp; he\u2019s still going \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0lot of sore bums here. \u00a0Time to go ! \u00a0Left onto Patriarchate Road, \u00a0left into St. James\u2019 Street \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0discover Rothschild Centre. \u00a0Enter, \u00a0look around, introduce myself as friend of Miriam\u2019s son\/grandson ? \u00a0Entymology \u00a0\u2192 \u00a0good discussion \/ debate on Israeli politics \/ Chunnel \/ neo-nazism \u00a0\/ Le Pen (losing his battle in Paris \u2013 vive le peuple). \u00a0Very bright Sumatran brought up in Germany. \u00a0Give him card. \u00a0\u00bd hour at least there. \u00a0Back down St. James\u2019, \u00a0left into Armenian church (St. James\u2019 Cathedral) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0dead ends at rear. \u00a0Down through gardens with deep wells (Romans) &amp; out of Zion Gate. \u00a0Right up hill to Tomb of David, \u00a0cost of entry 2 cigarettes + 1\u00bd shekels for 1 candle &amp; Jewish little cap (cardboard version). \u00a0Light candle \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0see tomb. \u00a0Round to site of last supper, \u00a0downstairs an absolute disgrace \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0uncared for , rubbish everywhere , nearby graves used as dump . Discuss with female caretaker \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0Jews have picnics there &amp; don\u2019t take their rubbish away ! \u00a0Back along Western wall past Jaffa Gate &amp; along Jaffa Road sussing out camera shops \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0buy yetanothermap 20 shekels. \u00a0Return via Schlomzion Hamalka (King David Street) enter Jaffa Gate \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0back to Rothschild centre to try to change $20 as banks now closed. \u00a0John takes me to Arab money changer in market who gives me worse rate than hotel would ! \u00a0Never mind, c\u2019est la vie. \u00a0Directs me to Wailing Wall \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0nose around, \u00a0eventually turfed out due to lack of little hat. \u00a0Round Arab market again (got new film for 5 shekels) &amp; out via lower Via Dolorosa (pass monks with lightweight cross !) to Lion Gate. \u00a0Down &amp; right to Mary (Mother of God)\u2019s tomb \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0rather dark &amp; spooky &amp; Catholic . Up into Garden of Gethsemane (padlocked !) &amp; into beautifully fronted Basilica of Agony. \u00a0Mosaic floor inside, \u00a0interesting altar paintings \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0pray awhile. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Church_of_All_Nations\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/3\/3c\/Church_of_All_Nations2.jpg\/1024px-Church_of_All_Nations2.jpg\" alt=\"The Church of All Nations, also known as the Church or Basilica of the Agony\" width=\"210\" height=\"136\" \/><\/a>Out &amp; up hill past lovely Russian orthodox St. Mary Magdalene church (closed), \u00a0into Dominus Flevit church with disconcerting sepulchre but masses of rosemary. \u00a0On up steep hill (Mount of Olives) to near Nablus summit. \u00a0Ace view of old city \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0couldn\u2019t find Maxwell\u2019s grave as all inscriptions in Hebrew. \u00a0No loss ! \u00a0On up hill, round Dome of Ascension leaving Russian tower to right. \u00a0Its cross gleams, \u00a0however. \u00a0Along Martin Buber St. &amp; left down hill on Shmuel Ben Adaya St.. \u00a0Get smile from very pretty girl playing handball &amp; wave in return ! \u00a0Round wall, \u00a0avoiding Rockefeller Museum, \u00a0up Saleh El Din &amp; round to Nablus Rd.. But unfortunately Garden Tomb closed. \u00a0This is where Christians believe Christ rose from the dead \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0the rest think it happened at Church of the Holy Sepulchre. \u00a0Return to hotel for a coffee. \u00a0Was planning to go to Yad Vashem Holocaust museum but read it shuts at 5. \u00a0So decide to go to Bethlehem instead. \u00a0After 11 miles (once more) it\u2019s time for modern transport.<\/p>\n<p>Hit Jerusalem rush hour at its peak. \u00a0Road out is poor, \u00a0compounded by maniac drivers particularly Arab taxis &amp; Israeli Army jeeps. \u00a0Hundreds of near misses in the twilight. \u00a0Miss sign to Bethlehem so continue to Hebron \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0suburbs to the right then suburbs to the left before explosion rocks car ! \u00a0Assume direct hit from intifada stone-throwing youth &amp; curse Arabs but soon discover interior light has blown plastic cover out (although mysteriously light still works !?). \u00a0Made one heck of a noise I can tell you ! \u00a0Hit Jerusalem road and stop when near B\u2019hem at roadside caf\u00e9. \u00a0Very kind Arab speaking good English gives me baclava &amp; coffee flavoured with cardomam seeds + box of matches. \u00a0First gift of food in Israel &amp; it\u2019s an Arab who obliges. \u00a0Shukran. \u00a0\u00a0Keen Hussein of Jordan fan (makes 2 of us) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0nobody buying his bakery products because people stay indoors. \u00a0If Arabs venture out at night it\u2019s,\u201d Oi, where do you think you are going ? \u201c from the soldiers. He\u2019s thinking hard about selling up &amp; going to Jordan, where life would be easier.<\/p>\n<p>Find Bethlehem turn off \u00a0&#8211; \u00a0down Manger Street to Manger Square \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0place deserted apart from army sniper in a watchtower over the Post Office. \u00a0Walk round side of Church of the Nativity (closed naturally) meet private road &amp; return to square where pandemonium sets in \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0jeep &amp; guns hurtle off westward, \u00a0more scurry upstairs above shopping centre. \u00a0Decide to leave them to their fun &amp; games &amp; return to Jerusalem. \u00a0More army panic by Rachel\u2019s tomb \u00a0\u2013 \u00a010+ jeeps, \u00a0eventually clears. \u00a0Drive round north of city, \u00a0through Hasidic quarter before returning to American Colony.<\/p>\n<p>Supper $19 \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0Melon \/ Smoked Salmon, \u00a0Fish Soup en Croute, Squid + veg, Strawberry Ice Cream \/ Pineapple Fritter. Very good value.<\/p>\n<p><b>Monday 27<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Letter to Steve &amp; Wendy, \u00a0postcard to Tony Yeldham after somewhat restless night. \u00a0\u00a0Breakfast 7.15a.m. , get car from garage, \u00a0tip car-man, \u00a0drive to Garden Tomb. \u00a0This is the site of the cross and site of the resurrection \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0lovely garden run by society based in London. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Calvary\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-383 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/Golgotha_postcard-147x150.jpg\" alt=\"Golgotha\" width=\"147\" height=\"150\" \/><\/a>Plants thriving \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0you name it they got it. \u00a0Anti-clockwise to wooden platform overlooking bus station, \u00a0past well \/ wine-press to tomb entrance &#8230; one bay dry one damp in the corner \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0out to take photos. \u00a0Listen to guide with group, \u00a0sitting to their right when Kerblam! \u00a0SONIC BOOM ! \u00a0shatters our peace. \u00a0Ta very much Israeli Air Force. \u00a0Buy postcards in shop after much browsing. \u00a0Leave this magical place &amp; drive round walls towards Gethsemane. \u00a0Park &amp; wretched \u2018guide\u2019 (this is the worst spot in Jerusalem for pestering) tells me that unless I fork out 20 shekels to him I am liable to get \u2018stoned\u2019 &amp; that parking there will cost me 150 sh. . Crap. \u00a0Walk down to view Absalom\u2019s Pillars (son (3rd ?) of Abraham) from above . There are 3 high canopied stone belvedere-type structures. \u00a0Up through Jewish graves &amp; back to car . Around city walls \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0get lost in West J .. Eventually find Knesset, \u00a0Israel Museum, \u00a0Biblical Lands Museum (shut). \u00a0\u00a0Looking for Yad Vashem now \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0get directions in Israel Museum. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Yad_Vashem\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/2\/25\/YadVashem_Train_Car.JPG\/800px-YadVashem_Train_Car.JPG\" alt=\"YadVashem Train Car\" width=\"209\" height=\"156\" \/><\/a>Find it \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0visit museum of holocaust history. \u00a0Tears &amp; I\u2019m not the only one. \u00a0Art gallery of objects &amp; pictures done under duress. \u00a0Hall of names \u00a0&#8211; \u00a0they try to discover each person lost to Nazis. \u00a0Round trees of remembrance covenanted to Jews from all Europe. \u00a0Coffee &amp; cigarette, \u00a0bookshop browse &amp; off towards Tel Aviv.<\/p>\n<p>Get lost once more amongst new settlements \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0signposting abysmal, \u00a0standard of driving worse ! \u00a0Eventually locate right road &amp; cruise to Tel Aviv. \u00a0Park by bus station close to Dan Hotel in south. \u00a0Purchase Catherine Cookson hardback (\u00a32) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0try to get money on Diners Club card. \u00a0No luck twice. \u00a0Collect plastic bag left at Hotel Moss . Enter Kulti shop \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0fine T-shirt designs etc.. But no money no buy. \u00a0Ya-Harkon St . \u2013 \u00a0lots of drunks around. \u00a0Drive north, \u00a0foiled by one way system again, \u00a0&amp; hit road to Haifa 120k.p.h. all the way. \u00a0Park before port. \u00a0Visit Templer War Graves 1869-1945 \u00a0British, Jewish &amp; German. \u00a0Photo of C.B.Patrick grave , age 33 killed 1914? \u00a0Relation ? \u00a0Also one of Rea \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0a relation of Chris Rea ? \u00a0Long walk, \u00a05 miles, \u00a0round upper Haifa eventually locating Elijah\u2019s cave &amp; tomb. \u00a0Here he met followers before outwitting \u00a0Baal (Kings 2). \u00a0Back to car \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0coffee &amp; bad chocolate bread microwaved. \u00a0Much traffic on road north \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0see Marks &amp; Spencer so stop at smart shopping centre with ice-skating rink at top ! \u00a0On towards Akko, \u00a0then right round populous town, \u00a0Qir Bialik, \u00a0as usual left \/ right up \/ down before seeing signpost for Haifa . Fill up with petrol near Qir Ata &amp; finally notice there\u2019s a dent in the car roof just 1cm from the windscreen &#8230; so it was a stone \/ rock that was thrown at me in Hebron. \u00a0Well, \u00a01cm is as good as a mile in this case but that could have been nasty \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0hope Reliable Car Hire are used to this sort of thing ! \u00a0Rejoin main Haifa \/ Akko road &amp; decide to go to Caesarea as originally planned this time by going over the top of Mount Carmel past enormous University tower (observation floor on 24th level). \u00a0Right at sign to Atlit &amp; peace descends. \u00a0Lovely hairpin road through Carmel National Park (3 cars, 2 army vehicles in 10km compared to 3,000 in 10km on highway). \u00a0Back onto motorway &amp; down to Caesarea which seems nice &amp; quiet. \u00a0Check into Dan Hotel by golf course \u00a0\u2013 ritzy prices, \u00a0food a bit dowdy. \u00a0Interestingly I wasn\u2019t allowed to eat cheesecake after steak. \u00a0Milk &amp; meat don\u2019t mix in kosher practices. \u00a0Americans at table next to me. \u00a0Bed 10.45p.m. after reading how much there is to see around Galilee.<\/p>\n<p><b>Tuesday 25<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Awake 5.15a.m.. Good radio station \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0The Voice of Peace. \u00a0Write Major &amp; Betsy . Early morning walk round part of golf course \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0looks a bit moth-eaten &amp; under repair. \u00a0Expensive anyway, \u00a0decide not to play. \u00a0Back for 7.10a.m. breakfast \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0cold coffee, \u00a0fair food. \u00a0Dan Hotels rather jaded. \u00a0Leave at 8a.m. for Roman amphitheatre \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0quick tour, \u00a0photo. \u00a0On to Herod\u2019s city, \u00a0Temple to Augustus Caesar, \u00a0massive breakwaters (no JCBs then), \u00a0walk across beach where Jesus departed these shores? \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.caesarea.com\/en\/home\/tourism-and-leisure\/harbor\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.caesarea.com\/images\/slideshow\/en\/port\/Banner_2.jpg\" alt=\"Caesarea harbour view\" width=\"447\" height=\"149\" \/><\/a>Back to car &amp; up to Herod\u2019s Stables near the hotel but everything shut although lovely horses stabled there now. \u00a0Into Hadera in heavy traffic \u00a0\u00a0&#8211; \u00a0lengthy process cashing 400 shekels on Diners at Israel Discount Bank. \u00a0Nice coffee &amp; pastries opposite \u00a0\u2013 \u00a01st parking ticket all in Hebrew !<\/p>\n<p>Head N.E. to Megiddo (Armageddon) through pleasant countryside. \u00a0Naturally miss \u00a0sign &amp; end up going through Afula &amp; out other side. \u00a0Pick up student \/ hitchhiker who gives none too great directions. \u00a0Drop him back in Afula &amp; get lost. \u00a0Eventually find Megiddo \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0quick look at museum &amp; out round this powerful site. \u00a04000B.C. buildings, \u00a0Solomon\u2019s Palace, \u00a0Ahab etc.. \u00a0Walk round clockwise, \u00a0strong wind at times, \u00a0more air force jets but no booms today ! \u00a0Staircase. \u00a0Tunnel closed.<\/p>\n<p>Decide to check out Nazareth on way to Mount Tabor. \u00a0Pick up Swede &amp; Dane girls going to Haifa. \u00a0Tortuous hairpin road up to Silesian Hospice &amp; above to Islamic tower &amp; reservoir (not yet on postcards). \u00a0Force 9 wind as I stand on A1 ley line between University on Mount Carmel, \u00a0through where I stand atop Nazareth &amp; on to summit of Mount Tabor along pylon lines. \u00a0Feel inner strength.<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mount_Tabor\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/a\/a6\/Mount_Tabor4.jpg\" alt=\"Mount Tabor\" width=\"209\" height=\"155\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Descend to central Nazareth &amp; park by Arab market \/ Church \/ Basilica of the Annunciation. \u00a0Wander up market (buy 75p saffron) before church opens at 2p.m.. \u00a0Very Catholic \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0little service going on under dome of rock where stood Mary\u2019s house ? \u00a0Who knows \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0anyway something \u00a0happened here ; \u00a0maybe Jesus met disciples here after rising from the dead.<\/p>\n<p>Head for Mount Tabor \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0of course get lost in Nazareth Illit. \u00a0Large circle &amp; back to square one ! \u00a0Left on Afula road , more hairpins; \u00a0skirt edge of Afula &amp; on to Mount Tabor. \u00a0Pick up high class Bedouin studying Italian &amp; on up the hill to Mount Tabor via very steep slightly hairy road in poor nick. \u00a0Park by Greek Orthodox church (pretty) there &amp; enter using one of my very few Greek words \u03ad\u03c6\u03c7\u03b1\u03c1\u03b9\u03c3\u03c4\u03c9 which opened the doors anyway. \u00a0Not that great inside. \u00a0Back down the road a bit , \u00a0park &amp; wander through rocks &amp; bushes to drive \u00a0leading to beautiful Terra Sancta Church next to Monastery. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Church_of_the_Transfiguration\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/2\/25\/Church_of_Transfiguration_Mount_Tabor200704.JPG\/640px-Church_of_Transfiguration_Mount_Tabor200704.JPG\" alt=\"Church of the Transfiguration\" width=\"209\" height=\"279\" \/><\/a>Incredibly heavy doors reveal fantastic interior of stained glass windows above &amp; below. \u00a0Sacred stone \u00a0altar but roped off. \u00a0This is where the transfiguration of Christ to Heaven \u00a0occurred \u00a0&#8230; (allegedly !). \u00a0Wander round graves of apostles (?) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0there\u2019s the Pope that died in 1962 buried up here as well \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0buy 2 postcards from sweet nun in monastery. \u00a0More wandering around the old stones of this ancient fort \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0discover amazing cave . \u00a0Photo. \u00a0\u00a0Return to car &amp; descend going round hill the other way at bottom &amp; on to Kinnaret, Tiberias &amp; look for hostel on Mount of Beatitudes. \u00a0Get lost again ! \u00a0Go beyond Capernaum before turning round, \u00a0going up hill to north &amp; finding right road. \u00a0Hostel closed for renovation &amp; church (built by Mussolini, \u00a0probably not personally !) \u00a0Fine position, \u00a0however. \u00a0Alsatian sees me off. \u00a0Check out Ginnosar Kibbutz Hotel &amp; kibbutz itself but doesn\u2019t look v.nice. \u00a0Pass serious car accident, \u00a0body on side of road with paramedics attending. \u00a0Check out Galei Hamat Hotel near hot springs, \u00a0lobby too hot, leave. \u00a0Check in at Gai Beach Hotel \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0expensive but takes Diners. \u00a0Nice receptionist recommends me restaurant, \u00a0Pagoda in town. \u00a0Thai veg soup (v.good), crispy duck (masses) &amp; spring roll. \u00a310. \u00a0Fast service. \u00a0Good long sleep.<\/p>\n<p><b>Wednesday 29<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Wake 6a.m. to see dawn breaking over Sea of Galilee (or Kinnaret). \u00a0Choppy \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0won\u2019t take boat. \u00a0Think this is a glacial lake as saw signs of glaciations last night. \u00a0Breakfast 7a.m. with German working at Beit Shona. \u00a0\u00a0Cold coffee. \u00a0North round lake to Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves &amp; Fishes with mosaic. \u00a0\u00a0Pray inside chapel. \u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Tabgha\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/a\/a0\/Brotvermehrungskirche_BW_1.JPG\/640px-Brotvermehrungskirche_BW_1.JPG\" alt=\"Tabgha Chapel\" width=\"210\" height=\"315\" \/><\/a>Even more impressive is church next door, \u00a0\u00a0Deification of Peter Church where Christ made his only joke, \u201cYou are Peter &amp; on this rock I found my church\u201d. \u00a0Mensa Christi (Table of Christ) inside \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0for once one can touch stone &amp; I sit on edge of table. \u00a0Outside is fine bronze statue overlooking lapping lake. \u00a0Walk on foreshore, \u00a0take photo &amp; return to entrance of church where lady tourist sitting. \u00a0Suddenly it starts to hail \u00a0\u2014 \u00a0\u201cHail Mary\u201d, I say &amp; walk through rocky garden &amp; underneath 2 arches of ancient well-type structure. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Church_of_the_Primacy_of_St._Peter\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/5\/5f\/Primatskapelle_BW_6.jpg\/1024px-Primatskapelle_BW_6.jpg\" alt=\"Church of the Primacy of St. Peter\" width=\"209\" height=\"139\" \/><\/a>On to Capernaum \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0Roman (Herod) temple on site of Jesus\u2019 church. \u00a0Shinto service going on in modern auditorium. \u00a0No paper in grotty loos which causes slight grief, but manage. \u00a0On up hill to Rosh Pinna &amp; left to Zefat thinking Hazor ruins up there. \u00a0Coffee &amp; 1 felafel with good Moroccan &amp; buy new film. \u00a0Pick up Gordon, hitchhiker, who \u201cworks for God\u201d \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bit confused but spoke good English \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0drop him back at Rosh Pinna. \u00a0Fail to find Hazor ruins \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0on to Qir Shemona and right towards Mount Hermon. \u00a02 army hitchhikers. \u00a0Then another who speaks English well, take him all the way to skiing area. \u00a0Past Banyas where 100 Israelis lost their lives capturing place from Syrians in 1967. \u00a0Past Nimrod Castle, \u00a0superb site atop hill.<\/p>\n<p>12.30p.m. now. Coffee &amp; rolls, then rent skis etc. &amp; get lift pass, \u00a0\u00a330 total cost. \u00a0Up long cold chair lift, \u00a0ski down icy crusty run to drag lift then down better snow to base. \u00a0Up lift again \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0mosey around above station before Army tick me off. \u00a0Broken truck &amp; jeep up here . \u00a0Very security conscious. \u00a0Photo of peak &amp; a bit of Syria. \u00a0\u00a0Down to base by a different route &amp; return skis 3p.m.. Descend to Qir Shemona , \u00a0\u00a0left towards Shamir, \u00a0right to Gonen &amp; up over ridge to En Ziwan. \u00a0Booms (artillery practice ?) as I ask army about Quneitra border which am told is Syria not Jordan as I assumed ! \u00a0So head along Route 98 all the way back to Tiberias. \u00a0Extraordinary road \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bomb craters, \u00a0burnt out jeeps, \u00a0war debris, \u00a0\u00a0memorials. Mostly in 2nd gear \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0anti-tank obstacles to negotiate . \u00a0For 30kms do not see another car ! \u00a0UN positions on left. \u00a0Solitary deer enlivens the spirit. \u00a0Excellent Arabic coffee near Tiberias &amp; head for Jericho. \u00a0Good fast road. \u00a0Arrive 8.30p.m. \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0place utterly deserted (Intifada) but find Hishan Palace Hotel. \u00a0Pretty grotty &amp; \u00a310. \u00a0Get ripped off for OK meal \u00bdkm away &#8230; 20 sh when should have been about 12. \u00a0\u00a0Back to hotel \u00a0\u2013 \u00a085 year old man who was in British Police Palestine.<\/p>\n<p><b>Thursday 30<\/b><b>th<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Awake 6a.m. after night of dog barking and distant wailing. \u00a0Caf\u00e9 arabische in square. \u00a0Leave hotel, \u00a0no-one around. \u00a0Drive to Allenby Bridge but told politely border closed till 8a.m.. \u00a0Back through Jericho to Mount of Temptation. \u00a0Climb to Greek Monastery; \u00a0guidebook says open at 7a.m., \u00a0difficult Greek monk says 9a.m. so descend. \u00a0Coffee at Temptation restaurant \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0visit old Jericho. \u00a0Walk round walls \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0already tumbled down ! \u00a0Oldest city in the world they say but Megiddo must be a \u00a0rival. \u00a0Similar shaped archaic structures. \u00a0Look for Elisha\u2019s grave to north but fail to locate (as usual) go some way before U-turn by some grazing camels. \u00a0Left to Jericho &amp; Allenby Bridge again. \u00a0This time told no way in except by taking taxi from Jerusalem. \u00a0Tant pis. \u00a0Decide to give St. George\u2019s Monastery a miss as it\u2019s another Greek Orthodox number &amp; they don\u2019t welcome tourists. \u00a0Ascend to Jerusalem &amp; check in at American Colony. \u00a0Assemble laundry $11 which returned immaculate in evening. \u00a0Go to Old City \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0boy selling kids\u2019 trousers vanishes within 20 mins.. Coffee near Damascus Gate, paint on ceiling falling onto my table ! \u00a0To Jewish quarter via longish route \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0buy presents &amp; find bargain Yiddish cup for Tony Y. \u00a0Lunch on main shopping street \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0drop 2 films to be developed. \u00a0More bargains in pleasant souvenir shop . Enter New Gate \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0another closed church, \u00a0get lost (this place is a tangled web of narrow twisting lanes) but find 3 English looking for Christian sector. \u00a0So they guide me out of maze &amp; I take them to Garden Tomb &amp; St. George\u2019s. They leave; \u00a0I visit British Council which only has Sunday Times &amp; it\u2019s Thursday \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0could do better. \u00a0Return to hotel &amp; unload plastic bags. \u00a0Soon out seeking but not finding the Kings\u2019 Tombs so enter at New Gate, \u00a0quickly reverse, \u00a0round to Jaffa Gate, \u00a0left on St. James\u2019 Street &amp; browse around smart Jewish area near synagogue &amp; Roman ruins . Coffee &amp; Danish pastry \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0art gallery 12 Visions of Israel exhibition. \u00a0Back same way to evening prayers (6p.m.) at cathedral. \u00a0Psalm 69 read alternately, \u00a0vicar &amp; congregation of roughly 12 . Then back to hotel. \u00a0More Intifada explosions as I leave church. \u00a0Sirens. \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0good browse in Arab run hotel stores \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0nice bag &amp; box look tempting. \u00a0Bath then supper &#8230; rigatoni, veal wrapped in ham, choc. cake + orange juice. \u00a0Wander round Pasha\u2019s room upstairs \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bellissima.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000080;\"><i>It wasn\u2019t until many years later that I realised I was following in my parents\u2019 footsteps here at The American Colony Hotel where they lived during the war my father organising cavalry forces at Haifa and my mother working with Colonel Bryant, Chief of Police of Jerusalem.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Friday 31<\/b><b>st<\/b><b> January<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Wake 5.30a.m. \u00a0Write postcard to Anne &amp; Antony. \u00a0Large breakfast 6.10a.m.. \u00a07a.m.Eucharist . \u00a04th communion. \u00a0Back to hotel. \u00a0\u00a0Visit Kings\u2019 Tombs just south of hotel \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0some filled with water fed by drainage channels in side of cliff. \u00a0Northern tombs more powerful. \u00a0On down Nablus Rd. &amp; right to my favourite bank, \u00a0the Israel Discount. \u00a0Longish wait for 300 shekels. \u00a0Round corner to bus station \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0photo of Golgotha, \u00a0Place of the Skull . Try to enter Jewish cemetery above skull rock but gates shut. \u00a0Syrian Catholis centre, \u00a0dead end. Wander round area between Nablus and Az Zahara roads \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0incredibly strong wind in my face as I stand at eastern edge of wasteland &amp; car parking square, \u00a0on east side of Salah El Din. \u00a0What happened here ? \u00a0\u00a0Into small park further east with olive trees, \u00a0very strong winds again. \u00a0Jewish Synagogue at corner &#8230; \u00a0round garden &amp; back to wasteland square where stands a tired-looking donkey. <a href=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?attachment_id=382\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-382\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-382\" src=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/Donkey.jpg\" alt=\"Donkey, tired\" width=\"209\" height=\"161\" \/><\/a>\u00a0Photo. \u00a0Round &amp; about then across Sultan Suleiman \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0colourful Arab market going on outside Damascus Gate. \u00a0Buy Charlotte some trousers \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bargain. Enter Old City, \u00a0discover fine shop run by good Arab who has brother in England \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0buy box &amp; round silver little box. \u00a0Bargains again. \u00a0Next looking for shirt or dress for Pippa \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0find lovely embroidered number. \u00a0Bidding starts at $65, \u00a0I pay 75sh. \u00a0\u00a0Rather awkward shopkeeper. \u00a0\u00a0Longish search round the tangled web for Church of the Holy Sepulchre. \u00a0\u00a0Strong wind as I walk along S.E. side, \u00a0enter. \u00a0Church not that impressive. \u00a0\u00a0Front left pew wobbles noisily as I kneel down to muse awhile. \u00a0Ascend tower, \u00a0spiral staircase, \u00a0many steps. \u00a0Fine views at top. \u00a0Photos.<\/p>\n<p>Down Via Dolorosa \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0obstreperous guide latches on to me leads me towards quieter Jewish quarter, \u00a0takes cigarette as tip but wants much more. \u00a0Foul-mouths me, \u00a0so I swear back ! \u00a0Walk up St. James\u2019 St.. Hoping to see my friends in the Alex Rothschild Centre but shut so stop for Arab coffee in St. Michael \u00a0Restaurant by Jaffa Gate. \u00a0Good. \u00a0Back to hotel to unload gifts. Soon decide to visit sights south of city. \u00a0So drive out on the appalling Bethlehem road \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0always traffic jams &amp; nightmare drivers. \u00a0Arab Mercedes taxis causing the most heartache. Rachel\u2019s Tomb closed, \u00a0so on to amazing Solomon\u2019s Pools at Aflit about 4 miles past Bethlehem turn off. \u00a0Large unkempt fort-type building on left, \u00a0then walk round 3 one acre each reservoirs in pine valley. \u00a0Very muddy. \u00a0\u00a0Pumping station broken but looks mendable \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0shame to waste this pure water. \u00a0Astounded at the guile of Solomon \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0this was eons ago. \u00a0On to Herodium, \u00a012 km left of road but good road. \u00a0Army checkpoint, \u00a0drive up to near summit &amp; park. \u00a0Fierce wind shakes the car. <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Herodium\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/5\/5f\/Herodium_from_above_2.jpg\/800px-Herodium_from_above_2.jpg\" alt=\"Herodium\" width=\"209\" height=\"157\" \/><\/a>\u00a0Pay to enter &amp; struggle against wind to walk round Roman Temple inside top of hill. \u00a0Do not linger as wind in danger of pushing me over cliff \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0brief glance at Roman city below hill. \u00a0This is where Herod, \u00a0a good man turned evil, \u00a0dispatched his troops to murder the children and babies of Bethlehem 5km away. \u00a0His tomb is allegedly here but I care not to seek it. \u00a0Back to main road &amp; on to Hebron. \u00a0To Abraham\u2019s mosque \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0directions given by Sheffield guy in Israeli army checkpoint. \u00a0\u00a0Guns everywhere \u00a0in mosque &amp; carpets. \u00a0Velvet covered tombs , \u00a0nice roof. \u00a0Out into wind past more army &amp; back to Jerusalem. \u00a0Plethora of blue number-plates (Arab) gives way slowly to yellow (Jewish). \u00a0Stop by Zion Hill Hotel &amp; climb up through gardens. \u00a0Coffee &amp; browse in King David Hotel (most expensive here) \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0across road to YMCA and its tower. \u00a0On up hill round some sort of closed stadium. \u00a0\u00a0Eventually locate top of Mount Zion (?) \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0an olive tree in small garden amongst flats behind electrical shop : dog barks. \u00a0Return to car &amp; hotel, \u00a0lost again, \u00a0take longish route over side of Mount of Olives. \u00a0To evening prayers after buying bag in Colony Stores. \u00a0Service given by Ian someone, \u00a0the vicar of Shotton ! \u00a0John Summers Steel. \u00a0Bath &amp; 7 course supper \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0good as usual. \u00a0Tears from receptionist being harangued by nasty Arab who won\u2019t apologise. \u00a0Letter to Steve &amp; Wendy again &amp; post it.<\/p>\n<p><b>Saturday 1st February<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Wake 6a.m.. \u00a0Eucharist. \u00a0\u00a0Snow starts as I leave. \u00a0American priest, \u00a0Ian of Shotton in congregation of 4. \u00a0Breakfast. \u00a0Off to get film developed \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0play good Samaritan &#8230; old frail Arab lady across street from hotel calls me. \u00a0Wants me to carry heavy flagon of water for her. \u00a0\u00a0Trudge to Damascus Gate \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0no way could she have managed it. \u00a0Drop film &amp; pick up 1 hour later. \u00a0Arab shops open although it\u2019s Jewish day off. \u00a0Pack &amp; leave 11a.m. \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0advised against going to Nablus &amp; Jelen. \u00a0So go to Ashdod (nothing happening) then Ashkelon, \u00a0south of Tel Aviv. \u00a0Enormous archaeological site from way back to Herod\u2019s time. \u00a0He was born here. \u00a0Walk along beach \u00a0in drizzle, \u00a0up sand cliff &amp; round ramparts of city before exploring middle. \u00a0\u00a0Much still to be excavated. \u00a0\u00a0Find possible site of \u00a0Herod\u2019s burial \u00a0although Herodium may be place. \u00a0Beach lovely, \u00a0strong crashing surf with Roman stones &amp; columns everywhere. \u00a0\u00a0Probably did 6 miles round site, \u00a0took 2 hours plus. \u00a0Decide to visit Gaza strip where Israelis fear to tread though much of their labour force lives here. \u00a01 million people \u00a0\u00a0&#8211; \u00a0\u00a0near Gaza \u00a0&amp; \u00a0Khan Yunis massive used car dumps (like Panama), \u00a0almost biblical scenes of donkeys &amp; horses &amp; carts. \u00a0Countryside on east side rather pleasant. \u00a0\u00a0Went wrong way at Gaza &amp; told by patrol, \u00a0100 yards further &amp; you\u2019re dead so reverse sharpish. \u00a0\u00a0Just short of Khan Yunis told I can\u2019t go on, \u00a0so head past Kissufim on good road towards BeerSheva. \u00a0\u00a0At \u00a0Netivot pick up delightful Ethiopian girl hitchhiker Abiba (language problem here) &amp; take her to Ethiopian community on outskirts of B\u2019Sheva. \u00a0Then go to shopping mall in town where she has to endure appalling racism from just about everybody. \u00a0Expensive coffee &amp; strudel. \u00a0Then to bus station to meet her friend, \u00a0drop them up the hill &amp; head off to Tel Aviv. \u00a0Get lost in Ramla, \u00a0wretched signposts again, \u00a0get lost again in Tel Aviv before eventually parking near Diezengoff Center (very plush, \u0103 la MetroCentre). \u00a0Eventually locate Tandoori Restaurant \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0not as good as Eilat one. \u00a0Raining once again as it has for most of day \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0back to car &amp; off to airport. \u00a0Told car has to go to a hotel 10km away, \u00a0naturally drive 20km finding it ! \u00a0Explain about dent in roof &amp; parking ticket &amp; get driven back to Ben Gurion Airport where I have to bide time from 1a.m. to 6a.m. when flight goes.<\/p>\n<p><b>Sunday 2<\/b><b>nd<\/b><b> February<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Have worked out that I have driven 2,063 kilometres in last 8 days + maybe 110 miles \u0103 pied \u00a0\u00a0&#8211; \u00a0\u00a0phew. \u00a03a.m. check in. \u00a0Takes 50 mins of questions &amp; bag searching. \u00a0Get free biro for the hassle ! \u00a0Nice German guy going back to Frankfurt, \u00a0buy him ciggies at Duty Free. \u00a0Tupolev 154 (2?) (the Trident copy) to Prague. \u00a0Bank won\u2019t change my shekels so fellow traveller swaps them for German marks, \u00a0thanks. \u00a0Manage 40 minutes walking around Prague Castle area \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0strong feelings in St. Thomas\u2019 Church but don\u2019t stay long \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0up steep hill to lovely cobbled square &amp; round Loreta anti-clockwise. \u00a0Film being made \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0lots of extras. \u00a0Down &amp; back to tube &amp; back to Dejvick\u0103 \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0then taxi, \u00a0fare agreed at 80 krone \u00a0\u00a0\u2013 \u00a0\u00a0have to pay 96 on arrival. \u00a02\u00bd hour delay before Tupolev 134 (loaded up with coriander !) leaves \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0bad mistake by ( trainee ?) pilot at Heathrow nearly hurts child. \u00a0Back on dry land. \u00a0Tube to Baron\u2019s Court \u00a0&#8211; \u00a0van starts 1st time \u00a0&#8211; \u00a0merci Dieu ! \u00a0Home to Altenburg to give presents to family, \u00a0\u00a0answer letters &amp; then drive to Carole\u2019s for night.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Saturday 18th January 1992 Spring from Springfield at \u00a09a.m., having \u00a0written letter to Graham re Patrick Estate \/ Wellesley Estate monies. This is one Graham Millar who it turned out, after much detailed investigation by myself, family members and ultimately the Securities and Futures Authority, had \u2018churned and burned\u2019 some \u00a3250,000 of my Trust and &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=377\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Jamie&#8217;s Israel Diary January 1992<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[10],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/377"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=377"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/377\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":395,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/377\/revisions\/395"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=377"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=377"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=377"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}