{"id":315,"date":"2014-11-05T12:48:25","date_gmt":"2014-11-05T12:48:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=315"},"modified":"2015-08-21T09:42:04","modified_gmt":"2015-08-21T09:42:04","slug":"italy-diary-autumn-2014","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=315","title":{"rendered":"Italy diary Autumn 2014"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Sunday 26th October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

The trip gets off to a really bad start, courtesy (or lack thereof) of 35 year old man at the Goldcar rental counter. There was no transfer shuttle at the terminal so a few of us walked round, not far, to the car rental building. I passed the Firefly counter and thought, phew, thank God I am not using them \u2013 they gave and continue to give much grief to Sara over a minor scrape (responsibility totally accepted by Dutch family who hit her when she was stationary) in the hills above Rayol in August.<\/span><\/p>\n

No queue at Goldcar. Having already paid for the car hire in the UK via auto-europe I am surprised when this bloke demands an extra \u20ac98 for petrol and wants \u20ac137 for insurance. When I tell him this is a rip-off (not angrily) he says he will call the police & I won\u2019t be able to rent a car from him or anyone else in the building. The alternative option to his terms is to surrender a \u20ac1,200 deposit, one small scratch would cost \u20ac300 minimum and if I \u00a0\u201cbreak glass\u201d, \u201ca wine glass?\u201d, I say, \u00a0this would mean \u20ac4,000 cost to me. \u201cThat\u2019s more than the car is worth\u201d, I say. \u201cNo, it\u2019s worth \u20ac15,000\u201d, he says \u2013 a Fiat 500? Eventually I have to settle for his \u2018all taken care of, no excess\u2019 insurance addition. There is no pre-rental checking routine.<\/span><\/p>\n

Absolute blackmail \u2013 most unpleasant, tantamount to corruption.<\/span><\/p>\n

Leave Pisa Airport at about 5.30p.m.. Busy dual-carriageway towards Firenze \u2013 somewhat claustrophobic because of concrete central reservation. Join the autostrada at Firenze with long stretches between exits. Coffee at bland services before the exit towards Perugia & Assisi \u2013 I have lost my ticket but girl at the booth accepts my explanations and it costs just \u20ac6-90. Yet another dual-carriageway & I reach Assisi just before 9p.m.. No-one seems to speak English but more by luck than judgement I find St. Anthony\u2019s Guest House within the city walls. Park car safely in their garden. Unostentatious room with shower in bathroom attached but less than \u20ac50 per night . Short stroll to local caf\u00e9\/restaurant.<\/p>\n

Monday 27th October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Weak coffee (enriched with my Sainsbury\u2019s Gold Choice) & white rolls served by the Sisters. Chat to nice American doctor and chaplain wife, Steve and Kerry from Minnesota, but there are few other guests.<\/p>\n

A big walking day follows \u2013 must have covered some 30kms. My route is charted on the \u2018museums, galleries and sights\u2019 page a few pages back (in original journal). Many of the churches visited were rather gloomy, the exceptions being Damiano and Eremo. The former is below the town walls and where St Francis first encountered God who told him to repair this church. He later (in 1225) wrote his \u2018Canticle of the Creatures\u2019 here. This was the home of St.Clare, his friend and founder of the Order of the Poor Clares \u2013 wonderful worn wooden seating in the refectory.<\/p>\n

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From there I walked some 5 or 6 kms uphill to the Eremo delle Carceri \u2013 no fauna alighted on me here where birds flocked to hear St.Francis preach . But I did meet 2 Austrian ladies who were back-packing towards Spello & one robin ! On their recommendation I returned downhill on the forest path.<\/p>\n

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Then via his birthplace (Piccolino) to the enormous and impressive Basilica on the edge of town. Superb ceilings, his tomb in the crypt, and an inspiring side chapel for Mary Magdalene + a newish bronze statue … Ges\u00f9 Bambino appare a Sant\u2019Antonio. Buy a few postcards before walking many more miles to the 8th largest church in the world beyond the railway station – Santa Maria degli Angeli. The road there , well the pavement actually, is made of thousands of terracotta bricks each inscribed with a name and a town. This massive church includes the Capella della Porziuncola where our man passed away. Purchase bus ticket in nearby shop for \u20ac1-70 or so & catch the 5.15p.m. back to Piazza Matteotti.<\/p>\n

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On my way to supper I visit the central square church atop Minerva\u2019s temple \u2013 well preserved Roman pediment and pillars across the way from the bookshop, Libreria Marco Zubboli.<\/p>\n


\nTuesday 28th October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

After breakfast I give Steve and Kerry a lift up to the Eremo (means \u2018sanctuary\u2019 in Greek as at Tabgha, Galilee) & suggest they use the forest walk down. \u201cYou are an angel in disguise\u201d, says Steve. I am trying to reach Spello via the back road on Mount Subasio but navigation poor and I end up back in Assisi \u2013 so Spello abandoned for a while and it\u2019s up through beautiful Umbrian countryside to Urbino in the neighbouring province of Marche.<\/p>\n

Underground car park & stroll up through the town. Obviously a particularly imposing hilltop town dominated by the Palazzo Ducale \u2013 the abode of that Duc Montefeltro, him of the extraordinary nose in that painting by Pierro della Francesca. The town is full of students, the black ones (and there are surprisingly few black people in these parts) trying to catch my eye to dish out some flyer or other. Not interested thank you. Visit Chiesa di San Domenico briefly, then a few large rooms in the Palazzo \u2013 some very interesting Roman and earlier stone inscriptions but I don\u2019t pay for full admission. The Cattedrale is open but not inspiring and sadly the Chiuso di San Francisco is \u2018chiuso\u2019. Wander around town awhile before descending back to the carpark \u2013 I\u2019m glad I chose not to stay here for the night ; there ain\u2019t much going on.<\/p>\n

Back south through the pleasant valleys on quiet roads to Gubbio, my next port of call. Get a bit lost in the modern town on the outskirts but soon find a large square with parking (\u20ac1-20 per hour) beneath Gubbio\u2019s Palazzo Ducale, also frequented by that Duc Montefeltro. My faithful Lonely Planet guide has recommended the Hotel Bosone Palace and it does not disappoint. Complicated one-way system, dropping off my baggage en route before eventually parking free underground outside the city walls. Charming small church, the Chiesa San Marziale undeneath St.Anthony\u2019s monastery is my first stop to say thanks to Him and a brief visit to the Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Laici at the other end of town.<\/p>\n

My room in the converted palace is more than adequate, a little dark but an enormous bed after Assisi\u2019s single and the adjoining bathroom has a bath \u2013 joy. The family who run the hotel also own a couple of nearby restaurants … the first one I try is the Bosone Garden. The \u20ac20 menu dei oggi looks pretty good so I go for that with a bottle of still water and a glass of my now favourite Grecchetto.<\/p>\n

Jesus, what a meal …<\/p>\n

Bruschetta, 4+ varieties with local parma ham and salad<\/em><\/p>\n

Penne pasta in cream with green broad beans & crispy bacon + pecorino shavings<\/em><\/p>\n

Fegato, calves\u2019 liver with white grapes in rich gravy + spinach with lemon<\/em><\/p>\n

Dusted chocolate cake laced with kirsch
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All that for a total of roughly \u20ac30 including tip to the pleasant Romanian waiter. Prima.<\/p>\n

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Wednesday 29th October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Good breakfast in panelled room with frescoed ceilings. Another out and about walking day, but probably only cover 12 kms although Gubbio is on equally steep slopes as Assisi. I love the fact, that as Iguvium it was where Rome exported its lunatics, \u2018which has left a lingering influence on the populace\u2019, says Cadogan Guides. The Eugubini have seen off hordes of Goths, Huns and Avars but the Nazis gunned down 40 citizens in reprisal for partisan attacks in 1943.<\/p>\n

Charming streets and interlocking alleys, cobblestones and steps all beneficially graded. Sort out the correct adaptor to charge my laptop \u2013 Italy has different sockets to the rest of Europe \u2013 but fail to get a connection on my mobile phone at ITim where at least I secure a Samsung charger which of course I managed to leave at home in Wandsworth. So much less touristy than Assisi. Once round the Fontana dei Matti (mad people) … thrice and you risk insanity. Into the massive and fine Palazzo (\u20ac2-50 ridotto\/concession for old people) which dominates the town, up to their Cathedral, short shrift at Montefeltro\u2019s palace from just about the only unfriendly citizen so decide not to enter. Walk around the upper city walls to the Funivia station for the rickety \u20ac6 (allez et retour) ride up Mount Ingino.<\/p>\n

Tour the excellent museum to Saint Ubaldo, who came before St.Francis, in the courtyard cloister in front of his Basilica. Friendly shop & see the 3 Ceri wooden icons that form a major part of the 15th May festival … second only to the Palio Festival in Siena, apparently. Why have I not heard of Gubbio before ? Everybody knows Florence, Siena, the leaning tower of Pisa but where has Gubbio been in the pantheon ?<\/p>\n

Dante\u2019s Paradise, canto X1 talks of Ubaldo\u2019s chosen hill. It was Ubaldo who by his presence alone saw off Barbarossa in 1155. He died on 16th May 1160 and rests in the Basilica.<\/p>\n

Back down to town, wandering around the little streets and side-alleys each with mesmerising vistas. Then quite a long stroll outside the city walls to the highlight of all the churches and sites \u2013 The church of Santa Maria della Vittorina, given to St. Francis by the Bishop of Gubbio in 1213.
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Here he founded the first home for the 12 Friars Minor & nearby he tamed the Wolf of Gubbio who had been eating livestock and human beings, terrorising the town. Inside it is wonderfully peaceful … Chiesa dalla Vittorina.<\/p>\n

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Inside La Vittorina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Quick shop in the La Mura complex where ITim try to connect up my Virgin mobile phone but fail and purchase some organic milk and biscuits in the adjoining Co-op. On to the Roman semi-amphitheatre at dusk \u2013 the mausoleum commemorating the 40 martyrs is closed, so it\u2019s back to the Bosone Palace.<\/p>\n

Supper this evening is in the sister establishment to the Bosone Garden \u2013 same price menu del giorgno but, even though it has a higher reputation Michelin * etc. it is not so good : La Taverna del Lupo \u2013 I have parma ham & melon, gnocchi with parmesan, a few slices of roast pork + rosemary potatoes. The best course is pudding … a pile of whipped cream with caramel and chocolate flakes. Wonderful vaulted rooms where the Via Anseidi crosses the Via della Republica.<\/p>\n

Thursday 30th October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Last bit of sightseeing in Gubbio, two churches, one undergoing restoration the second closed, then it\u2019s off to retrieve the Fiat 500 from its underground resting place. I am Spello-bound, once again through delightful countryside on quietish roads. Just a brief word about Italian drivers \u2013 there are quite a few annoying habits, the worst being tail-gating inches from one\u2019s back bumper … white van men being the worst culprits. Very little indication, aggression the norm.<\/p>\n

Park free at the bottom of Spello. Wander up the steep main street and round the city walls to the right. Pretty, as are all these hill towns but once again I am relieved I did not choose to stay. There is not much action amongst the place\u2019s 8,000 inhabitants. Caffe latte by the main Roman gate.<\/p>\n

Read up about my next stop, Perugia, and where to park … head for the Piazza dei Partigiani. Big underground car park and then a succession of escalators takes one up to the elegant Piazza Italia where the broad pedestrianised Corso heads up to their Duomo. Busy busy studenty city.<\/p>\n

Absolute highlight here is the Galleria Nazionale dell\u2019Umbria (about \u20ac8 entry) on the left hand side. A treat, even for a bit of an alleged Philistine like myself. Beautifully lit and described, there are works by Vanni, Vanucci, Nelli, Piero della Francesca (take photo), Buoninsegna, Pisano, Pinturicchio \u2013 a Bernini gold tree of leaves leaves a lasting impression. There is also a temporary Canaletto exhibition with 4 or 5 of his masterpieces. Walk around the upper part of town \u2013 a panoply of fine medieval architecture. Back through the arched brick vaulting on the down escalators and out of town on fairly busy roads towards Siena.<\/p>\n

Skirt round the Roman walls going left round the hills and valleys past the Porta Romana, the Porta Tufi to my destination the Porta San Marco … just below the hotel I have chosen from 2 guidebook recommendations \u2013 The Palazzo Rivazza. Park car by the city gate while I investigate room availability (yes, single is \u20ac80 b&b), luggage drop & how to get to their private car park.<\/p>\n

My hotels on this trip, Assisi, Gubbio, Siena have been \u2018good, better, best a my friend Vole describes my Israel diaries (\u201992,\u201995 and 2012) ! The Palazzo Rivazza is fabulous value, my room on the 4th floor has a side-view of the Cathedral and tower \u2013 a sumptuous pillowed bed, blue and white tiled bathroom, wifi on tap. Italianate gardens on terraces down towards their car park & a bench where Aldous Huxley is pictured sitting. Helpful staff.<\/p>\n

I drop my washing at a local Lavanderia – \u20ac15 for 4 pairs socks & knickers, 4 T-shirts, 2 shirts & 2 trousers \u2013 expertly done and hand-delivered back to my hotel the following day.<\/p>\n

Little bit of evening exploration in the local area … street patterns are somewhat confusing at first. On the Via di Stalloreggi close to the Pian dei Mantellini junction is a calligraphist and artist at work in his shop \u2013 sadly he was always shut when I returned to make a purchase. Supper is at a great and popular, even in this quiet section of Siena, little pizzeria by the Carmine church @ Villa della Diana. Choose one with onions, salami, bufala mozzarella & tomatoes followed by an indifferent tiramisu. The place is run by the partner of the Lavanderia lady \u2013 they are agreeable and friendly hosts.<\/p>\n

Friday 31st October 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Siena wakes up slowly \u2013 it\u2019s 10a.m. before anything really gets going. Good breakfast of decent coffee, fresh breads, cut your own salami & cheese; comfortable Lloyd loom chairs and glass-topped tables. My street savviness improves as I descend towards Il Campo \u2013 Siena\u2019s scalloped central circus \u2013 home of the Palio horse race contested by is it the 17 ? local Contrades (effectively gangs from each neighbourhood) with names like Porcupine, Dragon, Eagle, Goose and Panther. The Palio takes place on July 2nd and August 16th each year.<\/p>\n

First port of call is the splendid Basilica di San Francesco set behind a large open Piazza, home to St.Bernardino and the Eucharistic Miracle of Siena. Then to possibly the world\u2019s most beautiful bank head-quarters in the Piazza Salimbeni named after the 15th century founders of the Monte dei Paschi di Siena. There is a rival for that accolade, some private bank operates from rather a gorgeous building above and to the west of the Campo.<\/p>\n

Anyway, I am given a private viewing of the bank\u2019s archives and told of its important history helping to rescuscitate Siena with its lending and charitable acts after the Black Death. Fascinating ledgers and manuscripts housed in quite a fine modern framework & the loos were spotlessly clean.<\/p>\n

Also devoting herself to the poor and sick in post Black Death Siena was Caterina Bencassa, born in 1347 \u2013 experiencing visions from the age of 5 and painted by her friend Vanni in 1414 during one of her ecstasies. At the Casa e Sanctuario di Santa Caterina (her family home) I am brusquely admonished for taking a picture in the downstairs chapel of one of the \u2018mostly unexceptional Baroque canvasses\u2019 adorning the side walls. Not a nice curator … \u201cFuck, fuck\u201d, were his eloquent parting words. Honestly, everyone everywhere ignores the \u2018no photo\u2019 signs.\u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Next on the itinerary is the \u20ac12 Opa SI Pass to the sites around the zebra-striped Duomo. It\u2019s first into the Museo dell\u2019Opera har by the ticket office \u2013 full of Madonna & Child pictures by amongst others Duccio, Martini, Lorenzetti and della Francesca. Up to the scary Panorama del Facciatone \u2013 heights are not my thing.<\/p>\n

Tour the Battistero and the Cripta before entering the main church with its famous floor and Pisano\u2019s massive detailed pulpit \u2013 any preacher ascending there must feel important. In the side chapel, the Libreria Piccolomini are Pinturicchio\u2019s frescoes … attempt a panorama photo of one wall.<\/p>\n

Back to my lovely hotel on the Pian de Mantellini for a rest before venturing out again for some more sightseeing. Am recommended Santa Maria dei Servi for its views of Siena which do not disappoint. Forgot to mention that after the Duomo\u00a0\u00a0I crossed the Piazza, paid \"\"<\/a>another \u20ac8 and entered the voluminous vaults of the extraordinary Santa Maria della Scala. Originally, from about 1250, it served as a hospital for travellers and pilgrims \u2013 now it houses a mix of modern art, chapels, the archaeological museum & historical sections. It\u2019s all a bit dark and spooky as you descend in twists and turns through poorly lit corridors passing Roman funerary urns and sarcophagi. Quite a relief to reach the open air again.<\/p>\n

Up from the Porta Romana area, brief look into the Chiesa Santo Spirito and contemplate a purchase in a jewellery shop … it\u2019s a nice design (as if a man can discern such) of silver banding with sparkly bits encased in a Greek key-style setting. The ring isn\u2019t cheap … would this help to cement a frayed relationship ? It turns out that the glistery stones are not diamonds which would raise the price ten-fold. Anticipating : \u201cZircons; I spit on them !\u201d, I decide against. Instead I am stocking up on Siena\u2019s panfortes in different sizes and flavours \u2013 this used to be food for weary pilgrims & makes nice gifts.
\nAnother \u20ac8 expended for entry into The Museo Civico underneath the soaring Torre del Mangia (I won\u2019t be climbing up there) \u2013 it is money well spent here in the city\u2019s Palazzo Publico. The two lower floors are given over to an uninspiring modern exhibition of \u2018mechanical fishes\u2019 … all very samey. But upstairs are rooms from all centuries, yet more Madonna & Childs (slight fatigue setting in with these !) until one reaches the Sala del Mappamundo. Lorenzetti\u2019s circular map now faded but Simone Martini\u2019s Maest\u0103 is here and the terrific Equestrian Portrait of Guidoriccio da Fagliano probably by Martini but art historians are still bickering over its attribution & so it may be by Duccio, Lorenzetti or even Filippucio (who he ?, Ed.). Then in the next room, equally astonishing, are Lorenzetti\u2019s famous allegories of Good and Bad Government \u2013 wonderful stuff. Elsewhere in the building among the \u2018treasures\u2019 is another lovely gold tree and leaves done by Bernini.<\/p>\n

Central Siena is built on a Y-shaped convocation of ridges and the afternoon tour continues up the ridge to the north-west \u2013 Via Bianchi di Sopra contains smart but expensive shops but leads via the Piazza G.Matteotti (home to the main post office) to the dominating presence of San Domenico where a service is just ending. Built from 1226, it was here that St. Catherine received the stigmata and performed several of her miracles. Rather gruesomely her head is preserved behind glass in a side chapel. She died in Rome in 1380, only 33 years old \u2013 was it in ghastly circumstances ? Recently she has been made co-Patron Saint of Italy with Francis di Bernardone.<\/p>\n

Her Basilica has rather a nice shop where I spend time browsing and buying a few postcards. More shopping opportunities arise on the Via della Sapienza. My Gucci lookalikes, cobbled together over the past few years, are getting a little tired and old (like their owner). There is a smart pair of elegant black shoes, albeit sans buckle, going for \u20ac79 but I just baulk at the price and do not purchase. But Italians make wonderful shoes, eh ?<\/p>\n

Saunter back to my hotel, passing the still closed painting & calligraphy shop \u2013 wash and brush up and, tempting though it is to return to the nearby pizzeria, instead I head (on receptionist\u2019s suggestion) to the Cice Restaurant on the Via San Pietro. Busy, partly with fellow hotel guests; an excellent mozzarella & tomato salad + basil & do-it-yourself olive oil\/balsamic vinegar\/salt & pepper. Secondi platti of pork with apples and prunes is but fair \u2013 washed down with a bottle of still water. The restaurant is close to the Pinacoteca Nazionale, just about the only major site I have not visited in Siena … but perhaps it\u2019s chock-a-block with Madonna & Childs ?!<\/p>\n

Saturday 1st November 2014
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\nI have arranged by email to arrive at Dave & Sascha\u2019s near Ortobello at lunchtime. Early start allows some diary writing before breakfast and departure south-westwards \u2013 I have spotted in the guidebooks a couple of suitable staging posts to visit en route. Nice windy road through Rosia to the ruined L\u2019Abbazia di San Galgano and its special church on the hill, L\u2019Eremo di Montesiepi where the warrior who found God plunged his sword into rock in the 1170s and where it remains embedded.<\/p>\n

Onwards to the town of Massa Marittima passing men in day-glo parkas parked up for a spot of hunting \u2013 pity the poor birds of Italy these days not to mention the sangliers\/wild boars. \u2018Owt that moves above the grass is fair game here. Quick tour of this hill-top town with its steep streets \u2013 up past Chiesa San Francesco to the Sant\u2019Agostino church & cloisters then down the Via Moncini to the beautiful medieval splendour of the Duomo and Piazza Garibaldi in the lower Citt\u0103 Vecchia. Dedicated to San Cerbone, Patron Saint of Massa.<\/p>\n

To the coast and left on the dual-carriageway to the Albinia\/Argentario exit and arrive at the Hart\u2019s house at about 1.30p.m.. My large box of PG Tips is appreciated \u2013 Annabel and Odile, their eldest and youngest daughters usher me and the motor through the narrow gates. The gas has been cut off because Dave hasn\u2019t paid the bill so there is no hot water but what hey, there is an open fire on which we can boil saucepans of the over-chlorinated water.<\/p>\n

Lovely al fresco lunch before a walk up and down the nearby beach (which disappeared for several years due to rising sea levels but is now returning) to an ice-cream caf\u00e9. Lots of sword-fighting with the girls with bamboo and other sticks washed up. Night falls sharpish at 5p.m. but at least we have electricity.<\/p>\n

We are joined by an old school-friend of \u2018Annie\u2019s\u2019 on a sleepover & all pile into the extra long Mercedes estate that they have recently bought for \u00a32,500 \u2013 similar year and dashboard display as my own vehicle back home.<\/p>\n

There is a local produce festival going on in Orbetello \u2013 wine tasting (the best was a sweet white made from the usually average Vermentino grape from the Tenute Perini vineyard \u2013 but it\u2019s \u20ac28 for a small thin bottle) and then a chaotic queuing system for a good supper in a large tent. Plates of meat or cheese or the local vegetable soup.<\/p>\n

We notice a rabble of out-of-control children \u2018playing\u2019 at one side of the tent. They overturn benches noisily and eventually parents appear to collect them \u2013 but they have no \u2018boundaries\u2019, no rules these Italian children & can do no wrong in their parents\u2019 eyes. I suspect this transmutes into their adult behaviour, their arrogant driving techniques and their inability\/lack of desire to pay income tax. Muse upon that, my attempt at amateur social psychology.
\nExcellent sleep in the all white room \u2013 the copious slugs of white wine may have helped.<\/p>\n

Sunday 2nd November 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bit of boy scout work gets the fire going in the morning \u2013 matches, cardboard and fir-cones (as we are surrounded by umbrella pine forest here). Attempt to influence Dave\u2019s musical appreciation as he\u2019s stuck in Little Feat & similar mode. Introduce him to Arcade Fire, Elbow and Editors \u2013 he says he knows Enya (mind you, she\u2019s been a bit quiet of late). We compose a joint postcard to Hutchy, my step-sister who, with her husband David, has a house nearby and a flat in Rome.<\/p>\n

I drive Dave in to Porto San Stefano where we enjoy gin & tonics \"\"<\/a>at\u00a0\u00a0the Caf\u00e9 Julia on the front. Then back for a barbecued beef lunch with roasted potatoes and courgettes. Eschew any further alcohol before heading northwards at about 3p.m. aiming for Lucca in daylight. The Via Aurelia road surface is poor until fairly close to Pisa where it meets the motorway. It\u2019s dark when I reach the outskirts of Lucca \u2013 park a shortish distance outside the city walls, sort out a smaller overnight bag and head through the Santa Anna\/Porta Victor Emanuele gate and up his road to the centre of town. Find my chosen hotel fairly easily, the Piccolo Hotel Puccini in Via di Poggia just 100 yards from the superb front of the Chiesa San Michele. A little scruffy, the hotel not the church, but more than adequate for one night at \u00a360 right in the middle of Lucca.<\/p>\n

Out for a wander in the streets swarming with the remnants of their weekend\u2019s Goth Festival \u2013 there\u2019s all sorts here, Italian youth dressed ghoulishly, marquees devoted to the dark arts, odd cartoon characters, Star Wars tents, bizarre Comedia dell\u2019Arte stuff and the streets are litter-strewn. I walk for miles, some on the city walls, down to the Porta Elisa after viewing the Duomo and back towards the centre past the Chiesa San Francesco. Lucca\u2019s street pattern is even more confusing than Siena\u2019s and it is hard to relocate the Piazza San Michele \u2013 I suppose the two main arteries are the Via Fillungo and the Via del Fossa which follows the Roman \u2018fossa\u2019 or ditch, probably still acting as a city sewer. Catching my eye were the Chiesa Santa Maria Forisportam, a frescoed arch nearby on the Via Santa Croce and nearer San Michele, the zebra-style facade of the Chiesa di San Cristoforo.<\/p>\n

Eventually sit down for supper on the terrace of Ale\u2019s Bar at Piazza XX Septembre \u2013 generous portion of insalata mista, then an excellent plate of hot fusilli with pesto + a glass of white … \u20ac20.<\/p>\n

Monday 3rd November 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Need to be at Pisa Airport 9ish so do an early walk down the Via Fillungo to the Piazza Antifeatro which features on most Luccan postcards. The dustbin-men have done an excellent job throughout the night and Lucca is pretty much back to her prettiest. Precious little activity at 7a.m. but the Piazza, built in medieval times over the old Roman arena is worth seeing as is the third of Lucca\u2019s trio of outstanding churches, the Chiesa San Frediano.<\/p>\n

Back for a rather poor breakfast \u2018tray\u2019, pay the bill and walk back to \"\"<\/a>the car. \u00a0Fill up with petrol very close to the airport & return the little grey Fiat 500 with 1,141 extra kilometres on its clock. This is achieved with minimum fuss but still without a vehicle check. Then walk over to the terminal. Even though it\u2019s a small airport it\u2019s all a bit haphazard and chaotic but soon enough, I guess, I am all checked in and busy duty-free shopping. A bottle of Mexican tequila for Stuart, my blogsite guru … a few packs of cigarettes for my daughters \u2013 a long wait on the tarmac for no obvious reason.<\/p>\n

Back at Gatwick by lunchtime (in pouring rain) and home within an hour or so. Snappy Snaps is conveniently located at Clapham Junction who efficiently process my phone photos onto \u2018hard copy\u2019.
\nCiao, grazie, Italia.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sunday 26th October 2014 The trip gets off to a really bad start, courtesy (or lack thereof) of 35 year old man at the Goldcar rental counter. There was no transfer shuttle at the terminal so a few of us walked round, not far, to the car rental building. I passed the Firefly counter and … Continue reading Italy diary Autumn 2014<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[10],"tags":[12,11,13],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=315"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":561,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315\/revisions\/561"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=315"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=315"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=315"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}