{"id":257,"date":"2013-05-20T07:33:14","date_gmt":"2013-05-20T07:33:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.shirtyletters.com\/?p=257"},"modified":"2014-10-27T10:59:48","modified_gmt":"2014-10-27T10:59:48","slug":"check-this","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/?p=257","title":{"rendered":"Jamie’s Israel Diary May 2013"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Monday 20th<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

Early start to attend to various DIY projects ongoing yet unfinished -e.g. garden trellis work , unibonding the wobbly kitchen floor and completing the ‘ boxing in ‘ of the understairs loo\u2019s basin pipework with rather splendid brass handle. \u00a0This has been one of my most satisfying bodge efforts … lots of enterprising recycling of scavenged items ; plastic bin lids forming the top and bottom quadrants, solid wood isosceles triangles left and right with a concertina-like central slatting system that allows access to the valves inside should this ever be required – little pieces of MDF complete the top band adjoining the plastic. \u00a0All sanded before coats of terracotta colour on the walls, white on the banding and good old magnolia underneath to compliment \/ soften the terracotta. \u00a0Quel carpentier ne pensez-vous ?!<\/p>\n

Made time too for letters to Plowden and Smith ( local restoration experts ) explaining \u00a3300 + the dreaded VAT was over the top for renovating two little 18th century ( or early 19th ) leather and glass-hinged portraits of relatives – \u00a0one a Henry Thompson, the other unnamed. \u00a0I shall collect these next week, along with volume 1 of the Punch collection with which they could not help. \u00a0Letter to brother-in-law Mickey too, enclosing 65th Birthday card + the signed letter to Bettina Altmann of Pinzgauer Haus re the Rauris AGM ( our shared flat in Austria ) ; the minutes of which Mickey was going to deal with.<\/p>\n

Early constitutional walk results in yet another scavenged item – \u00a0metal base for a plant pot which may prove useful but the lovely new Senetta plant didn\u2019t fit inside, so remains in an old bucket. \u00a0Last water of plants and make some more progress transferring names to the new address book.<\/p>\n

7.31a.m. \u00a0leave for Luton via Shank’s pony to Earlsfield station, commuter train to Waterloo then more walking to the new station on Blackfriars Bridge (15 minutes or so from Waterloo ) then very fast and very punctual train whisks us up to Luton Parkway. \u00a0\u00a32.60, I think , Earlsfield to Waterloo then it\u2019s \u00a326 open return from Blackfriars to Luton Airport , an unsuitable bendy bus completing the journey. \u00a0Air fare \u00a3442 return including one 20kg bag.<\/p>\n

Disappointed by Luton Airport facilities – poor signage, shambolic security – \u00a03 wheelchair users were unable to go through the bleeping portals. \u00a0They were then all frisked and manhandled as if 3 English ladies in wheelchairs were Islamic terrorists of which reputedly there are many in this area. \u00a0My silver cross didn\u2019t get a reaction from the metal detectors but I had removed my watch. \u00a0Compose text to Georgiana, \u00a0attaching picture of my improving garden – \u00a0turns out she was flying to Italy later from the same airport.<\/p>\n

Flight is called well in advance of estimated departure but boarding gate has no seating at all for the 100+ passengers who are obliged to wait 30 minutes plus. \u00a0Not good.<\/p>\n

Just short of 4 \u00bd hours later we land at Tel Aviv – \u00a0just a word about some of my fellow passengers. \u00a0Many Hasidic Orthodox Jews with British passports – \u00a0their hats overcrowding the on-board lockers thus forcing others to check in their hand baggage. \u00a0The one next to me spent the whole 4 \u00bd hours tweaking the unusual hair arrangement around his ears and constantly leaning over part of my seat – space invasion ! \u00a0They seem oblivious to the presence of others and seem to plough their own furrow. \u00a0Rather rudely I thought. \u00a0Chosen race? \u00a0Je le doute.<\/p>\n

Tel Aviv passport entry sticky – \u00a0unfriendly female demanding to know if I was meeting anyone in Israel. \u00a0When I explained that I planned to visit Jack she demanded how I knew him ( Rauris renter ) and showed no concern or knowledge of Motor Neurone Disease of which he is dying. \u00a0\u201c It\u2019s not good, you die\u201d, I said.<\/p>\n

Avis car hire ( only \u00a397 for 6 days ) somewhat slow and then a pretty useless Palestinaian does the final checks on my Toyota Aygo not the Hyundai i10 that had been promised. \u00a0Rather ropy vehicle which struggled all the way uphill to Jerusalem \u00a0– \u00a0although good blasts of Arcade Fire and Elbow soothed the ride. \u00a0Israeli drivers dangerous ! \u00a0Little care for other road users.<\/p>\n

Wow , has Jerusalem changed since my last visit 16+ years ago. \u00a0So many new settlements, buildings, roads, tunnels – \u00a0once again very poor signposting. \u00a0A few wrong turns and difficulties trying to rely on my memory but eventually at about 8.20p.m. Israeli time I arrive at the gates of St George\u2019s College and park there – \u00a0close enough to the Guest House.<\/p>\n

Am shown my ok but basic room, No. 26 upstairs – \u00a0a quick wash and brush up and out to the recommended street of restaurants ( Shimon Alzidiq St ) \u00a0– \u00a0their 2 suggestions don\u2019t seem that brilliant so I select The Shalizar and enjoy an excellent iced tea plus chicken \/ mushrooms \/ cream sauce with rice, potato and salad for 70 shekels i.e. \u00a312 or so \u00a0\u2013 \u00a0give nice waiter 10% tip which pleases him. \u00a0Lovely courtyard and a warm evening \u00a0– \u00a0it had been 25\u00b0C when we landed at 6p.m. \u00a0Had dropped in at the American Colony Hotel en route for a quick chat with the shop owner whom I remember from my 1992 visit. \u00a0He berates Tony Blair, giving him nul points \u00a0– \u00a0\u00a0\u201cgreedy man \u201d, \u00a0gets a $1.5 million salary for doing fuck all as ‘ peace envoy ‘ to the Middle East \u00a0– \u00a0at least he no longer gets a free flat at the American Colony where incidentally my parents had a flat during WW2 and now has some place near the Ambassador Hotel. \u00a0He was at St John\u2019s College when I was at Christ Church but I don\u2019t think our paths crossed.<\/p>\n

Lovely soft bed so good sleep.<\/p>\n

Tuesday 21st<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

Up for the 8a.m. Eucharist in St. George\u2019s Cathedral – \u00a0there are just the 4 of us present. \u00a0Service taken by Hosam Naoum, the Dean,\"2013-05-21+07\"<\/a>\u00a0assisted by Saleem the Deacon and Justin Cheng ( seminary student at St. George\u2019s College from Vancouver ). \u00a0The latter two have slight difficulty pronouncing their readings. \u00a0Initial talk is about St. Helena , \u00a0Emperor Constantine\u2019s mother who founded the Church on Mount Scopius and the original Church of the Holy Sepulchre . \u00a0I find a tear coursing down my cheek when someone mentions outcasts and the oppressed. \u00a0Very special in the side chapel with embroidered hassocks from around the globe. \u00a0Being unconfirmed I generally won\u2019t take the bread and wine ( unless it\u2019s an extraordinary church with a vicar I know and trust e.g. perhaps a service at St Peter and Paul, the Springfield Church SW17 ) or even accept a blessing. \u00a0But this time I take a blessing from the Dean as it seems right to do so.<\/p>\n

We chat afterwards and at breakfast in the Guest House – \u00a0poor coffee from a machine but nice soft pitta-type white bread , huevos revueltos and cold meats \/ cheeses etc.<\/p>\n

Back into the Cathedral which has been spruced up since my last visit – \u00a0delightful chapel on opposite side to the morning service with baptismal pool – \u00a0bright with fine windows and a hexagonally based stone \/ wood pyramid structure, maybe over a font.<\/p>\n

\"2013-05-21+07.31\"<\/a>Pay for 3 postcards, take a few pictures – \u00a02 of the Keith-Roach memorials in the cloister outside ( relatives of Steve and Wendy K-R ).<\/p>\n

Pack my case, ready to leave late in the afternoon – \u00a0compose a few emails. \u00a0Isn\u2019t the world-wide access to the internet just amazing ? \u00a0– makes conducting one\u2019s life so easy from anywhere. \u00a0First stop is one of my favourite places … The Garden Tomb, which I discover much improved, quieter, now screened from the Arab bus station. \u00a0The garden so well kept by an army of kind but paid volunteers. \u00a0Truly the site of His crucifixion and entombment. \u00a0\"2013-05-21+08.29.05\"This place buzzes with bus loads of Zimbabweans followed later by Nigerians, Indians and West Indians all on guided tours taking their turns to enter His tomb now adorned with a new red cross … ‘ I am Alpha and Omega, the beginning and the End ‘ says the plaque.<\/p>\n

The adjoining shop is still superb – \u00a0maybe they should replace Nicky Gumbel\u2019s books with those of the erudite A.N Wilson. \u00a0All those Nickys were at Eton with me but has the Alpha course run its course ? \u00a0I was so disappointed the other day when visiting St Mark\u2019s Battersea \u00a0– a disgraceful ‘ healing ‘ \u00a0( my arse ) service conducted by a money-grabbing fat Canadian ‘ vicar ‘ who was unaware that that Thursday was Ascension Day and was more interested in his \u2018 it’s only \u00a35 Jive Night \u2018 on the Wednesday ! \u00a0People using their mobile phones during the ‘ service ‘ too ! \u00a0Such a shame because that church was derelict in the mid-seventies and became a good place.<\/p>\n

Sorry about the rant … back to the Garden Tomb shop which as ever was a veritable mine of maps, books, notebooks, cards and a free pencil (HB) which I am using now from the nice lady at the till. \u00a0Met a lovely Dutch couple doing good work near Rachel\u2019s Tomb outside Bethlehem and will try to visit them later in the week \u00a0– \u00a0House of Hope and Jemima House for L\u2019Arche type children.<\/p>\n

Drop shopping back at the hostel and head towards Jaffa Gate, deciding against negotiating my way through New or Damascus Gates. \u00a0Smart tram follows the Old City wall now – borders of rosemary and lavender help me on my way to the Christ Church area just inside Jaffa Gate with its astonishing connection to my mother, who was PA \/ secretary to the Chief of Police, Jerusalem during the British Mandate and whose handwritten note cards I had spotted on an earlier visit explaining the exhibits housed here. \u00a0This is the Michael Solomon Alexander Museum, the first Jewish convert to become Bishop of Jerusalem at Christ Church. \u00a0Rather over-rated cafe but it has a popular guest house – the museum curator, a youngish Australian who has lived in Bibury ( Cotswolds ) shows me the reworked museum but Mum\u2019s notelets are few with most being stored in the closed archive room to which I shall return when access is available. \u00a0Fantastic wooden model of the Old City is the prize item here, created by a Jewish convert to Christianity whose name escapes me at present. \u00a0J.M.Tenz it is.<\/p>\n

Christ Church itself is closed until 1p.m. for a private group so I return there later for pictures of its fine wooden altar. \u00a0\"2013-05-21+11.32<\/a>Purchase great giant post cards from a French shop close to Jaffa Gate and get money, 600 shekels on my MasterCard from a moneychanger at the top of the Via Dolorosa.<\/p>\n

Walk down St Mark\u2019s Road, avoiding the Armenian Quarter this time and down to the Jewish Section. \u00a0Man gets cross with me for not taking his guiding service ( which would have been for all of 120 yards to the Herodian Quarter ) where I spotted the Wohl museum i.e. Vole, who will receive a text ! \u00a0That\u2019s my good mate, Mark Samuelson aka Vole.<\/p>\n

Spend rather an abortive half hour looking for (a) The Holy Sepulchre Church ( which always seems hard to find ) and (b) a pencil sharpener and rubber because mine seem to have gone AWOL. \u00a0Eventually discover the one and only stationery shop in the Old City is closed today ! \u00a0Make a few purchases nearby and then back to Christ Church.<\/p>\n

Where to now ? \u00a0Quick lunch in the nice courtyard – I am finding food in Israel is pricey, worse than England which is surprising n\u2019est-ce pas ?<\/p>\n

Cross the main Highway 1 to a new modern shop precinct heading for Ben Yehuda and Jaffa Streets, ostensibly seeking a marvellous shop that I enjoyed back in 1992 but of course that\u2019s a long time in politics, or shop-keeping for that matter.<\/p>\n

Nevertheless, I am wandering around at the bottom of the Jewish quarter when I spot a pair of dashing red shoelaces with gold flecks in a small pile on the pavement. \u00a0Select them and head down a small corridor to the shop keeper who turns out to be an old Bukhari ( Iranian ? ) Jew who runs a small cobblers there – \u00a05 shekels … \u00a0I only have a 50 note so he accepts 3.50 plus a bit, \u00a0plus 1\/3 of a pack of English Polo mints as exchange ! \u00a0Delightful man and we converse in an odd combination of Arabic, Farsi, Dari, English, Yiddish and God knows what else. \u00a0I explain about my amateur cobbling ‘ skills ‘ \u00a0– \u00a0I happen to be sadly proud of my posh black shoes, \u00a310 from a charity shop, which used to have home-made tassels ( constructed from old wallets ) and now have small gold buckles ( \u00a33 from an old pair of ladies shoes ) fastened on with bits of an old belt. \u00a0Anyroads, that\u2019s \u00a313 for shoes that look like \u00a3400 Guccis ! \u00a0I shall return to Mr Shoemaker Jacov to show him my Schumacher efforts – \u00a0Small is indeed Beautiful. \u00a0He may offer to tidy them up a tad and perhaps I could commission a new pair from him to post to England \u2013 \u00a0a thought.<\/p>\n

Find some modern sharpeners and rubbers nearby – then a nice silk purse from an old people\u2019s charity shop then it\u2019s back to St George\u2019s – \u00a0one last visit to the American Colony to start the bargaining process ( which I find so tedious and time consuming in many countries ) on their shop\u2019s gorgeous bedspreads and bags from Uzbekhistan ( goodness me ) made from tri-banded linen with silk embroidery – \u00a0$600 opening price ! \u00a0Soon cut to $300 for a large bedspread but I may work on the excellent bags which he started at $200 !<\/p>\n

Leaving Jerusalem at 5p.m. wasn\u2019t perhaps the ideal time as it\u2019s unbelievably slow past Lion Gate and up the Mount of Olives past Lazarus\u2019 house in Bethany heading for Jericho and the Jordan Valley. \u00a0Progress abruptly halted when I encounter the new ( well, newish ) Security Fence, heavily graffiti covered which blocks the Jericho road. \u00a0Fortunately, a kind man gives me directions up and down steep side streets in Palestinian territory – give him a brief lift and then, perhaps the strongest surge of the day greets me as I descend towards the big new road avoiding dissident youth …<\/p>\n

A young crippled boy struggles up the pavement on the left hand side – looks at me, his legs not working very well but our eyes meet for some seconds and it feels very strong and very good. \u00a0Thank you Lord.<\/p>\n

Israeli bad driving continues all the way to Galilee – \u00a0tail-gating, poor overtaking and pulling out without looking just some of my complaints. \u00a0Jordan on the East bank appears more populated than the Israeli side. \u00a0Very warm, over 30\u00b0C down here , over 400 metres below sea-level. \u00a0Stop for an iced tea, chocolate cake with squirty cream and ice cream which costs me 44 shekels at a ‘ Cafe Cafe ‘ – very good but that must be more than Starbucks UK … divide by 5.25 or so for Sterling.<\/p>\n

Somewhere round Ein Gedi on a tiring 3+ hour drive north there is an Israeli Defence Force checkpoint where I am treated very brusquely by a young woman for not having my passport for her to examine immediately to hand. \u00a0\u201c You have been rude and short with me \u201d – \u00a0I am obliged to pull over to search for documents amongst my belongings in the back of the car – \u00a0arms wave with guns – \u00a0\u201c Move over there\u201d etc.. The shoddy rudeness continues until I finally find my passport. \u00a0\u201c Who do you think I am ? \u201d – \u00a0Honestly, they are paranoid at times. \u00a0My car is covered in Avis stickers and I speak the Queen\u2019s English – \u00a0am I a likely Palestinian trouble-maker ?<\/p>\n

Aygo and I take the easterly route around Lake Galilee and just after 8.15p.m. we arrive at the Vered Ha-Galil ranch \u00a0– \u00a0Peter Gabriel\u2019s wondrous ‘ Solsbury Hill ‘ brings us up the final slopes to Jesus\u2019 teaching patch. \u00a0His outdoor classroom and his home were close by here.<\/p>\n

Am shown where to find my room, \u00a0No 2 – \u00a0all one could want in an hotel room. \u00a0Quick shower and brush up – \u00a0back to Nofar in reception and sitting room for emails, soup \/ bread \/ cake and fruit all provided free of charge. \u00a0Rates very reasonable for such a special place $118 first night, $71 subsequent nights half-board with a pool and horses on tap. \u00a0Total cost $354 for 3 nights including extras. Go out for an evening exploration – \u00a0they have chalets \/ cabins \/ houses on both sides of the road. \u00a0Fantastic views of Lake Galilee – \u00a0the glittering, shimmering lights of Tiberias some 20km away. \u00a0Moonlight helps – wonderful little plots of land here for extra development maybe. \u00a0Around property No.16 I pick up 2 types of small rock – pumice types, and I find a small bit of marble near my own room. \u00a0More souvenirs to add to the day\u2019s tally – \u00a0I think I have some 7-10 kilos of spare luggage capacity for the return flight.<\/p>\n

Another good day – downers were the angry Jew who I suggested should work out of a hotel rather than hanging around near the Cardo and of course, the unpleasant Israeli girl soldier.<\/p>\n

Forgot to say my little blue rucksack with white stripes – \u00a0can\u2019t recall where I sourced it – \u00a0has been misbehaving a little. \u00a0My nice blue V5 pilot pen fell out of its cap on night one and it\u2019s been colouring my fingers blue. \u00a0Also forgot to say that before leaving London I did some of my repair sewing to its lower strap area. \u00a0Quite successfully may I say !<\/p>\n

Not a great seemster, shoe repairer, cobbler or carpenter but at least I try.<\/p>\n

Wednesday 22nd<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

For some reason, ( perhaps too much coffee the previous evening ), not the greatest night\u2019s sleep although the news of the Oklahoma tornado was galling and dominating Sky News but I did make further inroads into A. N. Wilson\u2019s insightful book, ‘ Jesus ‘.<\/p>\n

Before breakfast I wandered round the neighbouring village of Korazim in the forlorn hope of finding a shop open to replenish the milk provided by Ha-Galil. \u00a0Rather a dull dormitory village with unexciting architecture.<\/p>\n

On returning I spotted some marmot types with meerkat tendencies amongst the rocks and took their photo. \u00a0Not sure who they are . \u00a0‘ Rock bunnies ‘ in Hebrew apparently ; or some less romantic English synonym. \u00a0Because the guest house is renovating its celebrated dining area , \u00a0breakfast gets served up near the stables. \u00a0Poor coffee again, \u00a0odd little bits of fish and cheese but excellent squeeze-it-yourself grapefruit and orange juice and hot ‘ wokked ‘ eggs and tomatoes. \u00a0The girl on duty seems disinterested but it\u2019s mostly a help yourself affair.<\/p>\n

Explore a bit more of the Ha-Galil property and then down the road to the large Catholic church which dominates the Mount of the Beatitudes – splendid spot where He preached about the meek inheriting the earth and \u00a0\u201cblessed are you when men shall revile you and persecute you in my name\u2019s sake. \u00a0Blessed are those who hunger and search after righteousness for they shall see God \u201d. \u00a0Powerful stuff then and now. \u00a0Many Catholics inside and pictures of Popes but I concentrate on the garden outside and don\u2019t tarry long.<\/p>\n

The churches round Capernaum are not open so I visit the newly discovered 2000 year old fishing boat preserved in a swanky museum at Ginnosar. \u00a0Maybe Jesus had a hand in its making.<\/p>\n

On through Tiberias supposedly seeking a little electrical shop because my CD player seems kaput and I\u2019ve left my Samsung phone charger in England – \u00a0there\u2019s always something that gets left behind isn\u2019t there ? \u00a0No joy ; so I head for one of my favourite places, \u00a0Mount Tavor , aware that it closes for lunch at 11.45a.m. \u00a0\u00a0Rather difficult progress but eventually start the hairpin ascent competing with minibuses descending.<\/p>\n

Once up there, wow – \u00a0I don\u2019t recall spending much time inside the 1924 Barluzzi Church of the Ascension before but it is truly magical.<\/p>\n

\"2013-05-22+09.52.34<\/a><\/p>\n

Wondrous windows, mosaic murals – \u00a02 side chapels to Elijah and Moses have superb ceilings and I take many good photographs with the telephone – ain\u2019t technology awesome! \u00a0\"2013-05-22+09.54.09<\/a>Interesting chat with an Ecuadorian monk about the lack of bananas in Jesus\u2019 time – \u00a0Israel now grows millions of them. \u00a0Then encounter group from Chennai, India admiring the view of Nazareth.<\/p>\n

Decide Nazareth may be the solution to my electrical needs so head that way. \u00a0Israeli signposting is not good. \u00a0Didn\u2019t realise that Cana ( water into wine miracle ) is actually a suburb of Nazareth so that is a result. \u00a0Park up on busy high street and lo and behold I am right by a charming girl in a shop which has the perfect purple gizmo for charging up my particular Samsung. \u00a0She advises of another nearby shop which may help my CD player but strangely when I try and explain what\u2019s up with the little Goodman\u2019s \u00a0it works perfectly. \u00a0Perhaps Joan Osborne\u2019s ‘ One of Us ‘ \u00a0wasn\u2019t the perfect choice for a veiled Muslim lady but there we go.<\/p>\n

Head slightly uphill towards the 2 Cana churches – one is shut but the nicer Greek one is open and that\u2019s meant to be where the miracle happened. \u00a0\"2013-05-22+11.03.34<\/a>It might help some of my female friends if wine could be turned into water at times !<\/p>\n

Good Greek shop across the road has the lowest prices of the many souvenir shops – when in Cana, you have to buy wine don\u2019t you, so I get 4 small bottles of sweet red and one of those tacky Holy Water \/ oil \/ stones and spices combos – \u00a0all for a total of $10 or 35 shekels. \u00a0Happy with that and plan to give one of them to Southwark Cathedral for their chalice and patten Eucharist services. \u00a0Wine from Cana has a certain ring to it doesn\u2019t it ?<\/p>\n

Start the journey back to Upper Galilee – spot food superstore outside Tiberias but once again thwarted by no signs. \u00a0Manage to find another supermarket though and buy milk, juice and good lemon ice tea, surprisingly the brand is a Coca Cola venture \/ franchise called Foze.<\/p>\n

Back to Ha-Galil and my lovely room overlooking the Upper Jordan valley. \u00a0Shower etc. then out to investigate nearby town, Rosh Pinna. \u00a0Fairly modern shopping malls but all high priced goods. \u00a0Only bargains seem to be the McDonalds ice cream cone – have 2 of those and an excellent hamburger place nearby doing burgers for 10 shekels run very efficiently by a young Arab Christian convert – \u00a0we had language difficulties but a nice Israeli girl assists and tells me of Kosher dietary laws which must make life difficult i.e. no dairy with beef … stroganoff or chicken in cream \/ mushrooms thus off the menu.<\/p>\n

Back to base for more diary writing and reading – \u00a0interestingly A.N. Wilson, who I think read Theology at Oxford and has lost \/ regained his faith, discovered that Christ was particularly averse to anything scatalogical. \u00a0Anything tainted by shit was deemed unclean – stuff going in good, stuff coming out bad ! \u00a0Anal sex must have horrified him – buggers shall not prosper. \u00a0Sadly it seems rife these days – \u00a0what on earth do women get out of such practices let alone the men.<\/p>\n

My room included a DVD \/ CD player which once operational ( help needed ) was a boon. \u00a0Mozart, Mumford, Genesis, Enya \u00a0– \u00a0I’ve always had Peter Gabriel’s ‘ Solsbury Hill ‘ as my number one favourite track ever and on a late evening walk at the edge of the property ( included in my drive earlier but I like to walk routes too ) it struck with resonance as I was going through the words in my head … Coming down this lane ‘ I could see the city lights ‘ of Tiberias. \u00a0At the end of the lane stands the largest Spina Christi tree in all Galilee, marked with a nameplate – Zizyphus Tree – ( remember Sisiphus in the Greek myth rolling that stone relentlessly up that hill poor fellow ) . I shivered spine-chillingly as a bird clattered out of the upper left branches of this tree in the moonlight … ‘ eagle ( or is it evil ? ) flew out of the night ‘ . Perhaps one of the snake-eating eagles that inhabit these parts… Huelvas ? in Aramaic.<\/p>\n

Spooky it was – \u00a0this tree has soft leaves but spiny spiky twigs.<\/p>\n

Then oddly it came to me later just exactly what the lyrics of my second favourite track ever were all about. \u00a0That’s ‘ Carpet Crawler ‘ from Genesis \u00a0– \u00a0suffice to say that ants and flooring are involved.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/strong>One of my first quasi-spiritual moments happened in early 1980 when it seemed to me that Tchaikovsky’s ‘ Nutcracker Suite ‘ was mirroring my movements. \u00a0I remember telling my GP, \u00a0Michael Gormley about this, \u00a0but it’s hard not to dismiss such ‘ auditory hallucinations ‘ as those of a ‘ nutter ‘ eh ? \u00a0Well, readers \u00a0– \u00a0these things are part and parcel of my life. \u00a0Disturbing at times, \u00a0illuminating at others when some lyric echoes one’s thought patterns and sometimes just astonishing and magical, \u00a0for instance when you play some Enya and all the flora and fauna move to her music.<\/p>\n

Where was I ? \u00a0Oh yes, walking back to my room for my second and last night there before being moved elsewhere on the estate. \u00a0Have booked an hour’s riding from 10a.m. next morning – \u00a0on one of their 35 well cared-for horses.<\/p>\n

Incidentally my bag is more black \/ grey with white stripes rather than blue. \u00a0Improvising with shampoo \/ conditioner and a rubbish bin I wash and rinse said bag and it dries in the early morning sun of the next day …<\/p>\n

* Had telephoned Jack Shuldlenfrei earlier in the evening and arranged to visit him in Raanana at Friday tea-time. \u00a0\u00a0\u201c You are not to die before I arrive, ok ?! \u201d \u00a0Got his address – \u00a0lives near the Open University headquarters.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/strong>Thursday 23rd<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

Up at 5.30a.m. aiming to leave at 6a.m. to walk down to Tabgha which had closed its doors at 10a.m. the previous day thus denying my access. \u00a0What do they say? \u00a0\u201cEarly to bed, early to rise makes you healthy, wealthy and wise\u201d- \u00a0well at least two of those adjectives wouldn\u2019t go amiss would they?! \u00a0You choose. \u00a0Never boast but if I could have the first and the last I would appreciate that. \u00a0Born with a silver spoon in my mouth at Guy\u2019s Hospital hard by the Shard, raised on a farm in Gloucestershire enjoying the best education money could buy … Gratia parentis. \u00a0Village school ( set up by Dad ) in Bourton-on-the-Hill, Cothill House prep school, Eton College then Christ Church, Oxford. \u00a0You cannot be dealt higher cards.<\/p>\n

Down the main road, \u00a0enjoying the roadside verges verdant with weeds and the occasional bits of detritus thrown from car windows. \u00a0Lovely teasel type blue headed bristly things – a little thorn bush known as \u201chedgehog\u201d. \u00a0Pick one.<\/p>\n

Left at the Italian intersection – the Vatican owns and maintains many acres in these hills. \u00a0Then down a track\/footpath past two angry dogs, fortunately restrained by chairs but their barks do set the spine tingling so I arm myself with a handy piece of hosepipe, \u201cjust in cases \u201d- as Ms Munoz says in that delightful Richard Curtis film \u2018Love Actually\u2019 when she admits learning some English in case that Hugh Grant fellow returns.<\/p>\n

Tabgha in sight now after 1 hour 10 minutes or so of downhill strolling – \u00a0or HEBTAPEGAI=HEPTAPEGON=ET-TAPEGA to give it its full derivations from the Greek. \u00a0\u2018Eremos\u2019 it was called way back – \u00a0\u2018The Solitude\u2019, visited by St Jerome, St Paul and St Sebastian. \u00a0\"2013-05-23+05.02.06<\/a> ( \u00a0I have subsequently learnt that my mother, in addition to her wartime duties in Jerusalem, Cairo and Ankara, single-handedly ran the Rest and Rehabilitation Centre for Allied officers fighting in the Middle-Eastern theatre, here at Tabgha \u2013 coincidences, eh ? ).<\/i><\/p>\n

Just above the two churches I encounter a little spinny of 6 or 7 Spina Christi trees some surrounding, almost suffocating, large hewn stones, one of which bears a remarkable effigy of Jesus\u2019 face whilst others have crosses and inscriptions- a somewhat rubbish strewn area so I clear up a little after taking a few more pictures. \u00a0Not sure what this area represents but it is a powerful site 100\u2019 above the lake shore.<\/p>\n

\"2013-05-23+05.28.00<\/a><\/p>\n

Have to clamber under railings to reach the road – \u00a0left for St Peter\u2019s Church, right for the Loaves and Fishes church administered by a German Franciscan mission, St Peter\u2019s under Italian control.\"2013-05-23_06.13.06<\/a>
\nI go left and am the first visitor inside this Mensa Christi edifice with its open rock altar where He said, \u201cYou are Petros \u00a0(Peter) and on this Rock I found my church\u201d. \u00a0His only \u2018joke\u2019 apparently but that I doubt.<\/p>\n

The place has changed since my last time here back in 1992 – new stained glass windows, the rock is festooned with paper; entreaties for pilgrims I guess and it seems not as clean and tidy as it should be. \u00a0Take a couple of photos, the last one by part closing the heavy metal doors and move to the lake shore. \u00a0Clear, clean water here.<\/p>\n

Meet the church cleaner, a Palestinian man from Ramallah or was it Nablus who was plucking the odd bit of litter into his big white sack. \u00a0Help him awhile while a small service is being conducted in Italian nearby. \u00a0We get chatting – \u00a0he\u2019s converted to become a Christian and I explain my slight disappointment about the general state of the church interior and show him what I mean. \u00a0We talk of personal things and I show him pictures on my phone of my children and others taken the previous day up on Mount Tabor\/Tavor of which I am not proud but pleased with.<\/p>\n

John Paul II had been here with an area obviously specially built for him and the early pilgrims seem to be all Italians as the buses start arriving.<\/p>\n

Next, I tour the lovelier but perhaps less inspiring adjoining church. \u00a0The mosaics here are just superb and I\u2019m a big fan of the loaves and fishes motif, always seeking it out for souvenirs. \u00a0Boo, the shop is shut – shame but I spend much time enjoying the different bird, plant and building designs so beautifully restored and maintained. \u00a0Germanic efficiency in charge here.<\/p>\n

8.40am now so it\u2019s back up to the main Tiberias \u2013 Quiryat Shemona highway. \u00a0Thumb goes out for a possible hitched ride up the hill but a 53 bus rescues me and for 6 shekels 20 cents transports me in minutes back to the Almagor Junction.<\/p>\n

Once again a good breakfast, then get ready for my 10 o\u2019clock ride. \u00a0150 shekels or \u00a330 for an hour\u2019s ride with tuition from Souf who has spent time in Texas thus sports a Stetson type hat while our little group – self, Eran and his family, up for the day from Tel Aviv all wear standard issue hard riding hats. \u00a0I do later confide in Souf that perhaps he should consider wearing more protection for his head – maybe I am more conscious than most of the dangers, what with sister Carole and her fractured skull and of course the tragedy of Mary Rose Howard nee Chichester in early January 1980 on frosty ground near Hullavington of whom I was so desperately fond.<\/p>\n

Her death precipitated my first visit to the Priory on the evening of her funeral – \u00a0I was distraught and in another world but on the whole was well cared for therein.<\/p>\n

Our ride takes us past that large Spina Christi tree again – my steed one Chico, a brown gelding who gets off to a grudging start but improves thereafter.<\/p>\n

Eran\u2019s wife and family are charming and informative – I learn the reason why my neighbour on the aeroplane was invading my space ! \u00a0It turns out that Hasidic Jews dislike women and his neighbour in the aisle seat was a woman – honestly, how ridiculous is that?<\/p>\n

We decide that Orthodox Jews and Islamic fundamentalists should be dispatched to some country (in Africa maybe) to fight it out amongst themselves while I make the suggestion that the British should once again take charge here in Israel.<\/p>\n

We see buzzards and the snake-eating eagle as our horses pick their way carefully through the narrow paths among the limestone and basalt boulders. \u00a0Manage a bit of sitting and rising trot but cantering is off the menu. \u00a0Great fun – Eran\u2019s 17 year old son is soon off to be a summer camp worker in the USA and their daughter is a top gymnast. \u00a0They email the photo of Chico and I at once to my address and I shall respond soonest.<\/p>\n

Not as sore as I anticipated I drive to the south again to check out Capernaum. \u00a0Stop for an unpleasant loo stop on the shore where someone has shat on the floor necessitating much remedial work on the Slazenger trainer in the gravel, grass, water and mud. \u00a0Getting warm now – glorious weather every day I must say by the way hey hey!<\/p>\n

Unexciting Roman ruins but Simon Peter\u2019s house was here by the shore- \u00a0compose text to daughter Pippa in a shady spot. \u00a0\"2013-05-23+11.21.11<\/a>Quick purchase of placemat featuring sites of Galilee and a strawberry lolly then back via Ammun, a much more open village than its neighbouring Almagor where I discover a fine mini- supermarket which sells everything I need….. milk, juice, iced tea, razors, a tub of coleslaw and some bread for supper. \u00a0So much nearer than the shopping at Rosh Pinna.<\/p>\n

Pool open from 4-7pm today so slaver myself in a factor 10 and 20 combo for about an hour and a half with lots of toddlers and children also enjoying the good facilities – \u00a0basic but fine.<\/p>\n

More emailing in the office and attempt to book room at St. George\u2019s, Jerusalem again for my last 2 nights but aaaagh………they are fully booked. \u00a0I shall try the St. Andrew\u2019s Guest House attached to the Scottish church tomorrow to see if they have a room. \u00a0Similar prices I believe.<\/p>\n

My new room, Chalet 13 is larger but actually not so nice as Room 2 – there\u2019s a massive Jacuzzi which I shall not use and I can\u2019t get the TV to function but as it faces the lake the view is magnificent.<\/p>\n

Rig up my little Walkman with its clever new speaker from Maplins Wimbledon and get on with a bit of writing.<\/p>\n

There are two or three empty plots here on the south side of the Ha-Galil grounds and I have made an appointment to discuss possible investment with Yaara, the lady owner – just a thought really and foreign property ownership is a right pain but we shall see what she might suggest. \u00a0The views on this side are just spectacular and there are one or two better designed houses which perhaps could be copied.<\/p>\n

Later on, underneath House No 16. the fence below the car park is quivering for no reason and it\u2019s plastic tape too. \u00a0Quieten it down with some judicious handiwork – \u00a0not sure what was happening there. \u00a0There was no wind.<\/p>\n

Friday 24th<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

Clean my comb with a \u2018hedgehog\u2019 plucked from the ground close to the Catholic Seminary ( next door property – ugly architecture but well looked after ) but an old toothbrush proves more adept at the job.<\/p>\n

Not sure what this day will bring before I head towards Haifa, then Route 4 down to Raanana in time for tea. \u00a0My only commitment is the 10a.m. meeting with Yaara.<\/p>\n

Maybe I shall visit Magdala which on the map sits between Nirvana and Hawaii. \u00a0Guess who lived there – \u00a0you got it ! \u00a0The village has another name, Migdal and is quite some way inland from the lake I discover – \u00a0it seems Mary\u2019s birthplace was in the lower reaches of the village. \u00a0Motor across to Nirvana – \u00a0one has to visit a place called Nirvana, surely. \u00a0Park just outside some rusty guarded gates by a skip \u00a0( not scavenging this time ! ). \u00a0\u201cI\u2019ll be 10 minutes\u201d, \u00a0I gesture to the guardian and enter a rather scrubby piece of campground but at least it\u2019s right by the lake which is clean here. \u00a0Rinse my plimsolls in the shallows and then a brief chat to a young Russian immigrant who is fishing, by rod and line nearby – \u00a0no catches yet but it is early.<\/p>\n

Back up the Galilean foothills to Vered Ha-Galil and after another good breakfast Yaara and I dance tentatively around the thorny issues of property ownership in Israel and what we might both gain by an investment from myself. \u00a0It soon transpires that I have grossly underestimated the value of property \u00a0hereabouts. \u00a0A small house\/bungalow in next door Korazim for example would cost over \u00a31 million whereas my thinking was nearer \u00a3200,000. \u00a0So … idea shelved, although kindly she shows me round her own house which could make a fine home but sans view. \u00a0She plans a family group of houses in Position A on the south-western corner of the estate. \u00a0Maybe maybe in 4 or 5 years the plan could be revisited – \u00a0although up here each house must be one storey and have a concrete security bunker below of case of attack. \u00a0Rockets from Lebanon have been known to fly over Korazim. \u00a0Another drawback may be that the Israeli State owns all land and there is no English-style freehold.<\/p>\n

Pack my bags- sunbathe and swim ( not getting my hair wet of course ! ) and then it\u2019s off towards Raanana and Jerusalem.<\/p>\n

Good road to Afula where I stop at a shopping mall – slight addiction, Jamie, to these malls. \u00a0This one has a spectacular stationery shop where I replace my lost blue V5 Pilot and add a pair of their silver and gold ones which I\u2019m not sure you can get any more in the U.K. \u00a03 cheap rolls of Sellotape too for good measure.<\/p>\n

Supermarket provides my lunch – chocolate milk and a pack of S2.99 choccy mocca wafer biscuits – get one extra pack for Jack. \u00a0It\u2019s a long drive down towards Tel Aviv and I stop for a quick kip, well 40 winks at Sh\u2019ar Hafer. \u00a0Call Jack on my mobile to say I\u2019m just up Route 4 and will be there in half an hour. \u00a0It\u2019s actually about an hour later that I arrive at their anonymous block near the Open University buildings – got hopelessly lost amongst masses of new roads and building sites. \u00a0This country is expanding so fast. \u00a0Call Jack again and he guides me in with difficulty.<\/p>\n

Great welcome from Jack and June who have rented the Rauris, Austrian apartment I co-own with a brother-in-law for chunks of two summers and who met sister Kitten and I in Regent\u2019s Park one summer. \u00a0There you go , one summer, two summers – \u00a0three bags full sir.<\/p>\n

Jack has ALS or Motor Neurone Disease – a mystery illness still. \u00a0Over delicious home-made cake and Sainsbury\u2019s Red Label Tea ( THERE IS A GOD! \u00a0My favourite brand … ) we put the world to rights. \u00a0His blog is now read by 1500 people every week as he gets weaker. \u00a0He looks well facially but his movement is strained and they will soon have to move from their lovely apartment to more suitable accommodation nearer Tel Aviv.<\/p>\n

I bore them both by getting them to read this diary blog so far and showing them many photographs and all my souvenir purchases are strewn over their floor. \u00a0Managed to make a joke saying Islam is like Facebook because you can\u2019t disengage from either! \u00a0He tells me a joke about Moses and God discussing meat and dairy mixing issues but to be honest, I don\u2019t quite get it cos I\u2019m goy ( = Gentile, for those not in the know ) . \u00a0( Jack finally succumbed to his illness in summer 2014 ).<\/i><\/p>\n

Gather my stuff and depart – \u00a0no room booked because both St. George\u2019s and St. Andrew\u2019s ( Scottish church ) Guest Houses have said they are full. \u00a0But fortunately when I arrive at St. George\u2019s, \u00a0Room 36 has become available and it is ample. \u00a0Wash and brush up because it\u2019s been a hot and sticky day – up to 90\u00b0F Jack said.<\/p>\n

Quite late, 9.30pm for supper – once again down (or is it up?) to the excellent Shalizar. \u00a0Am greeted like a long lost friend – given \u2018on the house\u2019 plates and plates of meze, beautifully prepared. \u00a0Order iced tea with \u2018taleh\u2019 ( ice in Arabic ) and my usual chicken in cream and mushrooms. \u00a0Perhaps my recommendation of their restaurant to the St. George\u2019s team at reception had brought them extra custom but anyway they were charm personified and without them realising, I departed leaving them a S100 note which to be fair, was the value of the food they had provided.<\/p>\n

Bottle of water for S5 on the way back to my resting place from a Palestinian shack shop. \u00a0It makes such a difference if you try and learn a few words in a country\u2019s language … \u2018pench\u2019 or \u2018panch\u2019 is 5 in Arabic.. \u00a0Shukran is thank you – \u00a0I must make more effort.<\/p>\n

Can\u2019t get this television to work either, so I am still in the dark about this ghastly news about the beheaded British soldier by 2 Nigerian Islam converts who then addressed a crowd (?) of cheerers (?) with their bloodstained hands? \u00a0Is this really true ?<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s me, \u00a0fresh from Galilee where Jesus addressed crowds with words of love – \u00a0Pull your socks up Cameron or I\u2019ll fine you for \u2018socking in the street\u2019, put you on Tardy Book and give you 3 Georgics to copy. \u00a0( Only pompous Old Etonians, such as I , will probably understand the above references ! )<\/p>\n

Jack was saying that the Orthodox Jews are having 7 or 8 children and outstripping the locals – \u00a0we seem to have similar issues with our indigenous population in England. \u00a0Nice white couples are having 1.2 issues per marriage and many of these wrong\u2019uns who crowd our cities now, many, if not most, with warped minds are breeding faster – \u00a0call me a racist if you wish \u00a0– \u00a0I am not going to deny that I sometimes lose my rag racially for instance when observing the driving tactics of our black \u2018brothers\u2019 and their \u2018distraites\u2019 sisters. \u00a0But there again, these Israeli Jehus take the biscuit theretoward ! \u00a0Am I being racist or just honest? \u00a0Honest I hope.<\/p>\n

\u201cTo bed\u201d said Zebedee in the Magic Roundabout, and so to bed I must go. \u00a0It\u2019s Shabbat tomorrow so things will be quiet apart from within the Old City walls which will teem with tourists and local Arabs\/Palestinians.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve just realised that I completely forgot to mention yet another visit to lovely Tagbha – this time on my return from the lakeshore in the morning.<\/p>\n

\"2013-05-23+06.00.26Twenty years ago, much as I loved the Loaves and Fishes church, it just seemed that the next door church, the Deification of Peter with its Tabula Christi, that chunk of rock on which you could then sit … it just seemed so special that I preferred it to the one next door.<\/p>\n

However, because of all the paraphernalia now inside, the less attractive stained glass windows and the slightly tainted feel to its inherent cleanliness – \u00a0I\u2019ve gone off it a tad and have transferred my allegiance to the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes.<\/p>\n

This time the shop is open, staffed by volunteers, a nice American guy tots up my pile of goodies – bag, medium T-shirt, a little espresso cup, a biro and a rather special silver cross that has touched the mosaic which tourists can do no more. \u00a0Tant pis.<\/p>\n

I stand on the left hand side as the sun streams in and a small service is taking place. \u00a0Adieu, nos vemos, \u00a0Amen.\"2013-05-23+05.57.57<\/a><\/p>\n

Saturday 25th<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

Up with the larks for a stroll round the Cathedral precinct. \u00a0Am amazed by the acreage here but perhaps over the years since 1897 ( when the land was acquired for \u00a33,300 ) it has shrunk a bit. \u00a0I did notice a car park just behind the St. George\u2019s College section that is absolutely the perfect site for a cricket pitch. \u00a0One could use the rather fine rooms at the back there for the pavilion. \u00a0Early in the morning the car park was virtually empty but it was busy when I passed by in the evening. \u00a0Nevertheless, could one make the car park owners an offer to buy back that patch of ground. \u00a0Over to you David Higgins ( he\u2019s my cricket captain and opening partner in the Bounders squad ) who often has more money than sense. \u00a0I can see the dedication plaque now !<\/p>\n

We are always looking for new countries to beat a cricket – \u00a0we\u2019ve dispatched Holland and Estonia but have come up short against the likes of Latvia, the Cayman Islands and Hungary! \u00a0I\u2019m sure we would thrash Israel \u00a0– \u00a0although I wouldn\u2019t want to take them on in a war.<\/p>\n

So come on Dave, \u00a0get your wallet out.<\/p>\n

The gardens here are very well maintained with excellent markers indicating Latin names, English names and explanations of each shrub, tree or plant. \u00a0I learned much about Rue, White Broom, Cypresses, Mastic (pistachio) and the Tamarisk to name just a few.<\/p>\n

It has so many lovely sections, many paid for by benefactors – one or two areas need some attention but that\u2019s a minor quibble. \u00a0Near the gates which open opposite the Courthouse, there is a children\u2019s play park – it was a bit rubbish-strewn and the loo there is not at its peak, \u00a0so I gave a little of my time to clear up a bit. \u00a0I think it helps if you leave a place slightly tidier than how you found it.<\/p>\n

Sort out my souvenirs somewhat – then a bit of 40 winks before pitching up for breakfast at just after 7a.m. \u00a0Very good as ever – \u00a0juice, eggs and tomatoes, bread and honey.<\/p>\n

Drop a bag of laundry to be done at reception, do a bit of writing in the garden courtyard there and check my emails again.<\/p>\n

First stop is the American Colony shop where I am given cardamom coffee – not as tasty as India\u2019s \u2018Special Tea\u2019 made with the pods but a friendly gesture. \u00a0The awkward rigmarole of bargaining begins again for his fine Uzbech cloths. \u00a0It would appear I\u2019m not going to get much change out of \u00a3100 but still have many hours to broker a deal. \u00a0I do not enjoy haggling- \u00a0such a waste of precious time.<\/p>\n

Back past St. George\u2019s and down to the Garden Tomb. \u00a0Crowds from the Philippines this time taking their turn to enter the tomb and being guided round the site by those volunteers who do a marvellous job.<\/p>\n

Back into my favourite Jerusalem shop – 3 more bookmarks and yet another map of the city that I do not have until now. \u00a0Am allowed to use their telephone and I reach Tineke T\u2019lam ( or tLam ) at her Jemima House for handicapped children. \u00a0We arrange to meet at about 2.30pm.<\/p>\n

This gives me time for some more moseying around in the old city. \u00a0Entering via Damascus Gate- \u00a0best to keep your eyes looking down to avoid too much \u201cHey Mister\u201d and \u201cCome look my shop\u201d etc. \u00a0Soon encounter a poster for the jolly good range of iced teas from Fuze – \u00a0I am hoping to help a godson with a business venture, so I take a picture. \u00a0Up a side street to the left where there is a bakery. \u00a0Man outside chats to me about organic flour, sesame or sunflower oil and says this place has been going for years. \u00a0Seems quite surprised to meet a British baker who churned out some 500,000 croissants in his twelve year stint as a lazy baker! \u00a0Still not very good at cakes but have recently found a fine recipe for Coca Cola chocolate cake which seems to work well enough.<\/p>\n

Up the Via Dolorosa, avoiding the \u2018stations of the Cross\u2019 pilgrims who clutter this road – \u00a0my eyes catch a carpet store on the right hand side who has a small selection of those Uzbechi textiles and thicker, heavier Kashmiri carpets. \u00a0Charming Palestinian, who is off on holiday to Greece later in the afternoon \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0sells me a wonderful piece of cloth for S150 – \u00a0way below the prices asked by the guy at the American Colony. \u00a0He is also keen that I purchase a Kashmiri runner which he offers me for S350 if I can return before 5pm having thought about it. \u00a0Weight on the plane may be an issue here + over-carpeting not to mention overspending !<\/p>\n

Stationery shop on Christian Quarter Street is open but with very limited stock and nothing suitable.<\/p>\n

On up to Christ Church – \u00a0where rather nice music is emanating from this Hebrew\/Christian i.e Judeo-Christian church which occupies the highest spot in the Old City I think. \u00a0I am shown to a seat back middle right and there follows some moving moments. \u00a0Personal statements are being made, \u00a0one comes from a man called Elijah who has walked to Jerusalem from Potsdam in Germany via 24 different concentration camps because he wanted to enunciate his personal grief on behalf of his nation. \u00a0A remarkable giant of a man, \u00a0some 2 metres plus tall , staying at the Franciscan Guest House just inside New Gate.<\/p>\n

I become aware of a girl, standing in pole position in a church i.e. on the aisle seat front left. \u00a0Quite skinny and appears to be having trouble with her legs – \u00a0why, I don\u2019t know but the back of my calves stiffen up and I have to do a bit of self-massage. \u00a0Anyway, she seems very happy with the world. \u00a0More anon.<\/p>\n

Most of the congregation are plugged in to headphone sets translating the Hebrew sections of the service but I have eschewed these. \u00a0We sit through what seems a dull talk from the main vicar but of course it may have been riveting had I known what it was about!<\/p>\n

You get the drift that services here go on a bit but there are a massive number of people with quite a lot of arm gesticulation and groaning. \u00a0Clearly a \u2018charismatic\u2019 church and it\u2019s not over the top with the evangelicalism (long word!). \u00a0The piano playing and accompanying singing are truly outstanding – I tell her afterwards that she reminded me of Enya of whom she had not heard. \u00a0The sun shines bright on her has she plays.<\/p>\n

After the service ends I tarry awhile to have a brief chat of congratulations with Elijah who is a popular figure, rightly surrounded by admirers keen to talk to him. \u00a0Then I discover more about the little teenage girl who is called Vora, from the Ukraine, although the lady who I thought must be her mother or a friend sitting next to her said no-one knew where she had appeared from \u2013 \u00a0she apparently announced herself as a Sister of Jesus. \u00a0I shake her hand and say, \u201cHello, I\u2019m Jamie\u201d, \u00a0telling the other lady that I think she\u2019s in a better space than when she arrived. \u00a0\u201cShe\u2019s so happy – she is indeed in a good place\u201c, says her neighbour also from Eastern Europe.<\/p>\n

Frustratingly, the museum remains closed, so I am not getting very far tracking down Mum\u2019s handiwork.<\/p>\n

Back down to near Damascus Gate and catch the Arab bus to Beit Jala for S7.20 – \u00a0it disgorges us all at the Bethlehem crossroads. \u00a0Try to pacify an angry young Palestinian lad who seems intelligent but wants to kill all the Jews. \u00a0\u201cThat\u2019s not how it works,\u201d I say. \u201c You have lived together for thousands of years – \u00a0you have to get on!\u201d<\/p>\n

Struggle with directions to Jemima House- everyone giving contrary advice- \u00a0\u201cit\u2019s past the stadium, then bear right\u201d … there was no stadium and anyway, it was on the left. \u00a0I had walked quite a way up hill on the road that the bus had come down – \u00a0the Via Maria. \u00a0Eventually, I\u2019m so frustrated and concerned I am late for the 2.30 agreed time – \u00a0spot a taxi parked up on a side road, \u00a0the owner\u2019s charming wife says when I knock on their door that of course he will take me to Jemima House. \u00a0S15 later I am near my destination but he drops me quite a way below on the main road.<\/p>\n

Tineke Tlam is not there but with a bit of toing and froing on the telephones we reach her and she\u2019s on her way while I am given a frothy coffee by one of the Dutch staff.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m no Jean Vanier ( the wonderful founder of the L\u2019Arche communities who I first met at a Guild of Health seminar back in 1995 and who signed my copy of his fantastic book \u2018The Broken Body\u2019 ) but I did my best, \u00a0meeting several floors of children with twisted little bodies, bent limbs , hands and feet – \u00a0my largesse involved Polo mints sourced at Tiger, Southside, Wandsworth … one of my favourite stores, a mini Danish IKEA type, and they went down well. \u00a0Others below were not so mobile and some didn\u2019t have long to live you could tell – spent most time with a prostrate pony-tailed girl who could not move poor angel and I\u2019m not sure if I made any contact or impression upon her.<\/p>\n

Tineke then showed me the school area and the \u2018workshop\u2019 where olive tree root waste was compressed into fire briquettes. \u00a0Then briefly we walked up to her house from where husband Peter kindly drove me in his rickety van up to his charity, \u00a0the House of Hope in lower Bethlehem – where he and those more able of the handicapped youngsters carve out masses of olive wood souvenirs. \u00a0I buy one and he then drops me back at the Beit Jala\/Bethlehem crossroads and points me uphill towards Manger Square – \u00a0the Nativity churches and birthplace of Jesus Christ.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s all a bit dirty and scruffy here really with not very enticing stuff for sale. \u00a0Further than I remember but arrive at the tiny door of the Church of the Nativity – go left into the Catholic courtyard where I encounter a little fella on a motorised tricycle who is begging with a written card and is doing astonishingly well … must be raking in up to S500 a day. \u00a0Very well positioned was Miguel and I took his photo from behind. \u00a0Smart shirt too, Miguel.\"2013-05-25+14.50.54<\/a><\/p>\n

There was a small service going on in the left hand chapel of the Catholic church section of this polytheistic place – rather gloomy, the main transept was more attractive but I was depressed by the massive iron gates, locked, separating the left footers from the right footers through which pilgrims were peering.<\/p>\n

Brief look at the Greek run or is it Syrian? section over the alleged spot – \u00a0probably not, actually. \u00a0Try to exit stage right up some steps but am thwarted by a shouting hatted holy man ( yeah ) who was operating a rope\/basket arrangement bringing goods up to his second floor window who shouted at me to go away in no uncertain terms.<\/p>\n

Out into the light again and take a different route to the right – \u00a0down to the bottom of Bethlehem again aiming to get the same 21 bus back to Jerusalem.<\/p>\n

But when in Rome, as they say … \u00a0so I thought, why not? \u00a0Let\u2019s walk back to Jerusalem … it\u2019s not that far on the map. \u00a0Enjoy a caramel type ice-cream tub and then something extraordinary happens close to David\u2019s Caves.<\/p>\n

A guy and two girls are walking on my side of the pavement – \u00a0she catches my eye, \u00a0this first girl because she is very attractive, \u00a0long dark hair and fine d\u00e9colletage encased in a white top. \u00a0Has this happened to anyone before? \u00a0But anyway she walks straight into me, \u00a0chest to chest, \u00a0bang – \u00a0and moves on without saying a word. \u00a0I say to her companion, as though I\u2019d done something wrong … \u00a0\u201cit was her, she walked straight into me.\u201d \u00a0It was my T shirt wot done it apparently – \u00a0it reads in Hebrew, The Golden Dove. \u00a0Her friend had a large gold watch. \u00a0I\u2019ve had that T shirt over twenty years and it\u2019s had some of Jamie\u2019s remedial sewing work done on it but I like it.<\/p>\n

The journey back to Jerusalem, 12 or 13 miles I suppose, is made harder by the presence of the security \u2018fence\u2019 – \u00a0slats of tall graffiti-covered concrete. \u00a0Am shooed away from the road crossing and detour round to the pedestrian one, a strange system of ramps, caging, albeit with some plastic hanging baskets for light relief and X-ray machines. \u00a0So it\u2019s belts, bags and watches off – \u00a0showing of passports etc. \u00a0Nice Palestinian explains to me that this routine can take 2 hours in the morning because of the queues. \u00a0I say, \u201cI\u2019ll see what I can do\u201d – \u00a0it\u2019s just not right to make half your population suffer just because you are the stronger half , Israel. \u00a0Are you listening Netanyahu?<\/p>\n

Tale a picture, with his permission, of a Bedouin grazing his goats on the outskirts of town, surreal, \u00a0just behind a petrol station! \u00a0Continue on the Hebron road, encountering black faces for pretty much the first time on this travel – \u00a0which sets me musing on some of the idiosyncrasies of this country. \u00a0Very few blacks, \u00a0I\u2019ve seen perhaps 2 , very few bicycles \u00a0– maybe 15 of those in total – \u00a011 joggers \u00a0– \u00a0contrast indeed with the streets of London now swarming with aggressive examples of all of the above and not enough polite ones !<\/p>\n

I can\u2019t go back to my usual supper destination because they would be too kind to me , \u00a0so I try the nearby Hotel Legacy which serves me a very good iced coffee and OK chicken, but service is poor. \u00a0Both TV and Walkman not responding to my entreaties \u00a0– \u00a0so I start organising my stuff for tomorrow\u2019s departure and delve into the story of the Prophet Job whose tale of woe and triumph Tineke had explained to me.<\/p>\n

You see, Jemina House is named after the eldest of Job\u2019s three girls and two boys of his second marriage. \u00a0There was Jemima ( they pronounce it Jemeema ), then Keziah or Cassia I guess we would say and then little Keruhappuel. \u00a0So the individual houses in Beit Jala are Jemima, Cassia but they changed the name of the third to something easier to trip off the tongue.<\/p>\n

Anyway, I read in the Gideon\u2019s type bible in my bedside drawer the last few chapters of Job and was thrilled to learn that after all his difficult times the boy got lucky, lived to the age of 140 – \u00a0had the 3 prettiest girls in the land and had a great time in the latter part of his life.<\/p>\n

My God, \u00a0can I say it\u2019s been fine but it hasn\u2019t been the easiest last 20 years financially or emotionally. \u00a0So here\u2019s hoping for a bit of Job\u2019s lot … . Actually, no, don\u2019t worry. \u00a0It\u2019s OK. \u00a0Let it be as it is.<\/p>\n

Sunday 26th<\/b>\u00a0May<\/b><\/p>\n

My elder daughter\u2019s 25th birthday and of course I forget to text her until about 5p.m. but I had sorted out card and presents before heading off on holiday.<\/p>\n

At 4a.m. the mosque down the road starts up its amplified \u2018muezzin\u2019 call from atop the minaret. \u00a0I wonder how many people actually show up for early prayers because Jerusalem doesn\u2019t seem to wake up until at least 9.30am whether it\u2019s Arabs or Israelis. \u00a0So why the cacophony at 4a.m. ?<\/p>\n

Finish packing, well nearly anyway. \u00a0Great breakfast again – \u00a0fresh tea or juice this time and a more Arab feel to the meal as a nice change. \u00a0Still enjoy my soft white pitta, lots of butter and runny honey! Out to the American Colony after a circumambulation of the Cathedral site which must be nearly a mile and may have been more in the late 19th century – \u00a0Boss\u2019s son only on duty ; explain I\u2019ve bought embroidered cloth elsewhere – \u00a0not bothered really; \u00a0I\u2019m sure they do very well from richer folk than me.<\/p>\n

Up to the Ben Yehuda, Shamai and Jaffa Roads area – \u00a0for second visit to Jacov the shoemaker where I buy 3 more pairs of shoelaces ( price going up each time! ) and he is impressed with the repairs to my posh black shoes – \u00a0we are helped by a fellow Bukhari who translates my ramblings.<\/p>\n

Before seeing Jacov I attend the 9.30a.m.service up at Christ Church again – \u00a0chat outside before to nice New Zealand couple who are setting up the after service coffee in front of the Alexander museum. \u00a0We discuss cricket, sheep and so on – \u00a0they are from Nelson originally, at the south of the North Island if I\u2019ve got that right or is it at the north of the South Island ?<\/p>\n

Church teeming with people once again. \u00a0Am pointed to spare seat up rear front but on the left hand side – \u00a0couple of youngish guys either side of me, the one on the left trying to keep his 5 year old amused. \u00a0Initial introduction from chubby vicar is amusing, threatening us with 4 or 5 hour service. \u00a0This is followed by good talk from the Deacon Aaron Eimi \u00a0( the Australian manager of the museum with the Cotswold connection ) which tails off a touch towards its end.<\/p>\n

By now the young lad on our left is seriously bored ( join the gang ) \u00a0– \u00a0in my pocket I have a tiny \u2018flicker\u2019 book that came inside the CD of Arcade Fire\u2019s excellent \u2018Neon Bible\u2019 – \u00a0this I had set aside perhaps to give to skinny Vora but she is not here today. \u00a0So I hand it to the bloke on my left and say it\u2019s a present for his son. \u00a0Gadzooks, \u2018it\u2019s a hit, a palpable hit\u2019 ( quote from Hamlet….. well, we did do a version of the play at school ) and he is quietened before being allowed to go to the Sunday School.<\/p>\n

Our service continues, it\u2019s the all-English version but I gather 2 hours long is commonplace. \u00a0I couldn\u2019t stick it that long and I\u2019m due down at the Anglican 11a.m. family communion – \u00a0this is way out of order, the amount of churchgoing I am doing at present! \u00a0But it is Trinity Sunday and everyone is having difficulty explaining the Father, Son and Holy Ghost concept.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m not going to start so there! \u00a0Suffice to say Monty Python are probably nearer the mark than the Pope! \u00a0Or Justin Welby for that matter, \u00a0who was 2 years younger than me at Eton. \u00a0He might remember my name I guess , one tended to look up to the older boys.<\/p>\n

So at 10.40am just over half way through their long service I have to sneak away down to St George\u2019s – \u00a0I write an A5 note explaining the provenance of the little 1\u00bd \u201c square booklet to my neighbour and put my name and address at its foot.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s an up down up down sort of day – \u00a0quick change into smarter shirt, trousers and shoes for the Church of England. \u00a0Sadly, a much smaller congregation but Praise the Lord a much shorter service too, clocking in at one hour. \u00a0Saleem and sidekick Justin Cheng are in charge with the readings and I think their pronunciation was clearer than on the Tuesday morning.<\/p>\n

Hymns a bit unknown which is always a bit of a downer but guest vicar Grant does a pretty good job with his own composition on the guitar … \u00a0heavens, a guitar in a Cathedral whatever next ? \u00a0Grant obviously does good Human Rights work with the Amos Trust and certainly one verse of his song sang sweetly and made me catch my breath.<\/p>\n

I scuttle away before the bread and wine \u00a0– \u00a0although I am a fan of that \u2018snap\u2019 noise when the wafer is cracked in two. \u00a0Not sure about this Pauline invention as the way to remember Him, and Christ\u2019s early followers are on my side I think. \u00a0Body and blood of Christ etc.. \u00a0The jury is still out ; the Jewry are probably out as well.<\/p>\n

I have to leave because there\u2019s a 12 noon deadline for room evacuation. \u00a0Which of course I overstay but only by 10 minutes or so. \u00a0Bundle all my stuff into the back of the Aygo and it\u2019s back into default dress code for my last hours in Israel – \u00a0T shirt, trainers and trousers : there\u2019s a trinity for you people.<\/p>\n

\"2013-06-19+15.16.59<\/p>\n

Up again to mid-town where I visit a silver shop spotted earlier and buy a wonderful small cup in Shevach Yemenite ware, sterling silver\u00a0– \u00a0so intricate and there\u2019s only one 71 year old still able to produce this exquisite work. So my S285 I consider a splendid investment for my children and their children\u2019s children. \u00a0That, together with the Uzbechi embroidery are my prize purchases.\u00a0\"2013-06-16+07.52.58<\/a><\/p>\n

Back across to Jaffa gate full of the joys of spring for one last attempt at the archives in the Alexander Museum. \u00a0S7 entry ( payable in the understaffed cafe below ) and once again a bit of a \u2018wild goose chase\u2019 for Mum\u2019s cards. \u00a0But thrilling to see M. Tenz\u2019s astonishing model again and a good chat with the Venezuelan curator on duty. \u00a0He encourages me to send an email to the Deacon seeing what he can do to help. \u00a0I learn that Hugo Chavez\u2019s acolytes are believed to have \u2018put away\u2019 some 19,000 political opponents. \u00a0Tell him to recommend St George\u2019s as an alternative guest house when theirs is full and also tell him about the Shalizar restaurant and its whereabouts.<\/p>\n

Down to St George\u2019s for the last time – \u00a0collect my thoughts, one last check of the emails and then set off towards Ben Gurion airport. \u00a0Pleased with early progress….. past the American Colony, turn left, left again then right onto the big road west. \u00a0Quite complicated these days because of underpasses and tram tracks and so on. \u00a0I tell you it is so easy to lose your bearings in Jerusalem – \u00a0what a maze it is, confusion can reign and I pride myself on my orientation skills. \u00a0But boy, do they go away in these streets and lanes.<\/p>\n

With hire cars you have to fill the tank before you return it so I stop at a petrol station and while I shop for an iced tea and biscuits the car is filled up with 95 octane – not self-service here. \u00a0And guess what! \u00a0The cost in cash is S153 – \u00a0one of the very few numbers mentioned in the New Testament. \u00a0The number of fish \/ ichthoi landed at Ginnosar or thereabouts by His anxious disciples.<\/p>\n

These Israeli roads and highways need some better lane engineering- \u00a03 lanes merge into 2 with no warning , \u00a0you can easily find yourself in the wrong lane and miss your turning. \u00a0Lane discipline is non-existent, indication rare and people pull out of side-roads willy-nilly.<\/p>\n

Signage to the car hire dropping area near Terminal 3 is of course lousy but I eventually pull up at the Avis zone thinking time is a bit tight now to catch my flight. \u00a0Because of their security issues you are obliged to arrive some 3 hours before your flight and for some reason I am thinking Easyjet goes at about 6p.m. ( when in fact it\u2019s due to leave at 8.20pm ).<\/p>\n

A rather slow Brazilian Jew goes through his check list of mileage, any scratches etc, paperwork, paperwork and reports his findings to the men in the hut\/portakabin who demand and extra US$29 Airport tax from me. \u00a0He then drives me slowly to Terminal 1 from where, apparently, the Easyjet to Luton will leave – \u00a0but the doors to \u2018International Departures\u2019 are firmly closed and a bossy Israeli woman directs me firmly onto a crowded transit bus which will take us all to Terminal 3.<\/p>\n

On arrival there it is once again a mess of poor signposting but eventually I discover that Easyjet does indeed go from Terminal 1 and I am in the wrong place ! \u00a0This is very frustrating.<\/p>\n

So, back to Terminal 1 on another transit bus and the place seems pretty deserted. \u00a0At this stage, after someone says, \u201cyou have missed the plane ! \u201d \u00a0I finally find out I am actually early and won\u2019t be able to check in for another hour or so.<\/p>\n

Do a bit of suitcase re-organisation to make sure the bag in the hold isn\u2019t over the 20kg allowance and then get moved on by security ( bossy woman again ). \u00a0Sit by the cafe , extortionate prices here. \u00a0Am joined by nice Dutch guy who has been on a conference jaunt with his employers, \u00a0Paypal , \u00a0and has got rather sunburnt walking around Jaffa old town. \u00a0Give him some Rescue Gel to rub into his bald patch and we chat about Paypal\u2019s fees and other stuff.<\/p>\n

The security rigramole – \u00a0which so pissed me off on previous visits starts badly with a very curt, tall skinny blonde who I tick off for her rude manner and lack of the small but magic word \u2018please\u2019. \u00a0Not hard really is it?<\/p>\n

At least this time I am not asked if I have made any friends on my travels – one of the main joys of the independent traveller but one which used to worry the paranoid Israelis. \u00a0In fact, in relatively short order with less hassle than before my bag is checked in – others are less lucky and taken away for more questioning but soon all passengers are herded into a bland room with no facilities. \u00a0It is then we discover that the plane is not here and off we go again by bus back to Terminal 3.<\/p>\n

This is fun isn\u2019t it ? – \u00a0what on earth is this all about ? \u00a0Well – Terminal 3 is fine \u00a0– the usual mix of shopping outlets, cafes and loos … \u00a0although it did take me a long time to find a cubicle which had any loo paper in it.<\/p>\n

At Steimatzky\u2019s I think I\u2019ve got a reasonable deal for my remaining 17 shekels in coins but it turns out their prices were in dollars so instead it\u2019s an iced tea again and a chocolate bar.<\/p>\n

Fine view of the coast of Israel as we ascend – \u00a0I\u2019m not very good at these long flights and get rather itchy and bothered. \u00a0Take shoes off – time goes very slowly. \u00a0Food on board isn\u2019t bad if you choose well – \u00a0they source good snacks, but there were no hot drinks because something was wrong with the internal plane water supply.<\/p>\n

Nearly 5 hours later we land at the ghastly Luton Airport – \u00a0we await two sets of steps for 20 minutes I promise you – \u00a0weren\u2019t they expecting any planes here ? \u00a0Naturally idiots stand the whole time in the aisle. \u00a0Talking of which – \u00a0throughout the flight those Orthodox Hasidic Jews had behaved abominably once again. \u00a0Luckily this time there were only about 20 of them but honestly, it\u2019s the men who are tiresome. \u00a0They stand in the aisles chatting away (about God knows what) leaning on other people\u2019s seats, blocking the poor steward\u2019s trolleys and partially blocking stewardesses\u2019 trolleys. What a nightmare they are – \u00a0so selfish. \u00a0I berate one of them who impedes my passage to the loo at the back – \u00a0a weak sorry and I say, \u201cAre you really sorry\u201d with one of my scarier stares!<\/p>\n

They get my goat this particular sect.<\/p>\n

Long long delay while the pathetic Luton staff unload our bags onto the carousel – \u00a0compare and contrast with the wonderful super-efficient style at Salzburg airport – \u00a0one of my favourites; \u00a0nope, my favourite !<\/p>\n

There are no chairs anywhere once again and of course big queues at passport control … the non-EU citizens getting a better deal than us Brits. \u00a0Remind me never to fly again from Luton.<\/p>\n

Long wait again at the Luton Parkway station for a train to Blackfriars – \u00a0say adieu to my Dutch friend and struggle with a lack of night buses back to Earlsfield … \u00a0by which time it is 4a.m. the following morning and I\u2019m a bit sore and weary. \u00a0But it\u2019s always nice to be home isn\u2019t it ? \u00a0House seems fine.<\/p>\n

Lehitra\u2019ot Israel<\/p>\n

See yer.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Monday 20th\u00a0May\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Early start to attend to various DIY projects ongoing yet unfinished -e.g. garden trellis work , unibonding the wobbly kitchen floor and completing the ‘ boxing in ‘ of the understairs loo\u2019s basin pipework with rather splendid brass handle. \u00a0This has … Continue reading Jamie’s Israel Diary May 2013<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[10],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=257"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":303,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257\/revisions\/303"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=257"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=257"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/shirtyletters.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=257"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}